Torque wrench question
I have a Proto torque wrench 0-100ftlb that I use for smaller jobs. Occasionally when I am torquing something, the head will not click. I reset it back to 0ftlb, make sure the tension is gone, turn the handle back to where I want and it works. It happens from time to time where I have to turn the handle back to zero, make sure the tension is gone, turn handle back to specified ftlb and go through this cycle 3-4 times before it works appropriately. The wrench was calibrated not too long ago, any suggestions?
I was told to reset to zero after being done with it for the day. Then on the first use, build it up on 10 ft/lb increments until reaching the desired torque. After that then use it normally for the rest of the day/job.
I have only heard good things about Proto. I would take it in under warranty and have them check it out. I reset to zero at the end of the day, but there should be no need to work up unless you are in extreme climate (like below 0).
The best way to store a click-type torque wrench is to set it on its lowest setting. Not way down past it, but with the zero lined up on the lowest reading on the vertical scale.
Before use, set it at its highest setting, and click it 6 times. Then, set it to the desired torque. This only needs to be done before the initial use of the day.
A socket welded to a plate, and bolted to the bench works fine for this.
I am pointing out the proper way. People in the civilian world probably never do this pre-use test.
You can avoid all this, (and the problem you describe), by using a beam type torque wrench. As long as it points to zero when at rest, it will be in calibration.
Before use, set it at its highest setting, and click it 6 times. Then, set it to the desired torque. This only needs to be done before the initial use of the day.
A socket welded to a plate, and bolted to the bench works fine for this.
I am pointing out the proper way. People in the civilian world probably never do this pre-use test.
You can avoid all this, (and the problem you describe), by using a beam type torque wrench. As long as it points to zero when at rest, it will be in calibration.
The best way to store a click-type torque wrench is to set it on its lowest setting. Not way down past it, but with the zero lined up on the lowest reading on the vertical scale.
Before use, set it at its highest setting, and click it 6 times. Then, set it to the desired torque. This only needs to be done before the initial use of the day.
A socket welded to a plate, and bolted to the bench works fine for this.
I am pointing out the proper way. People in the civilian world probably never do this pre-use test.
You can avoid all this, (and the problem you describe), by using a beam type torque wrench. As long as it points to zero when at rest, it will be in calibration.
Before use, set it at its highest setting, and click it 6 times. Then, set it to the desired torque. This only needs to be done before the initial use of the day.
A socket welded to a plate, and bolted to the bench works fine for this.
I am pointing out the proper way. People in the civilian world probably never do this pre-use test.
You can avoid all this, (and the problem you describe), by using a beam type torque wrench. As long as it points to zero when at rest, it will be in calibration.
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I had a similar problem. On mine there were two torue screws holding the head together. They had loosened up a bit and would occasionally keep the head from clicking for some reason. Once I snugged them up it worked like new again.



