Torque wrench question
It has long been the practice in the military that the bottom 20% of the range is not to be used. The rest of the range, right to the top, is fine. The setting should never be above the highest setting on the vertical scale, and not below the lowest setting on the vertical scale for storage. This is published in the Technical Order which governs torque wrench usage.
Like I said before, most people out there don't use a torque wrench in the most correct way, if they use one at all.
Like I said before, most people out there don't use a torque wrench in the most correct way, if they use one at all.
That's not true with a lot of Snap On torque wrenches. That has long been a big part of their advertisement. That you do NOT have to zero them back up when storing them. I've had one over twenty years that's rock solid everytime I've had it calibrated....or should I say checked. It's never been out and I never zero it.
Most of the click-type torque wrenches we use are Snap-On. They have to be exchanged quite often for being nonlinear. Typical of most brands we have contracted.
Not to argue with you, but this is from the Snap-On site:
"Description:
Tougher for Longer Life Cycle
• Hour Glass Shaped Cam – less friction reduces wear. Retains lubricant where it is needed.
• Thrust Bearing (as opposed to thrust washer) – resists wear for longer life.
• “Gorilla-Proof” Positive Stop – prevents accidental disassembly when dialing down to the lowest setting prior to storage, even when attempted by the most brutish user. (Caution: Do not wind below lowest scale mark)
• Larger, Tougher Load Screw – helps prevent damage due to impact.
• High Strength, Sealed Head – is the longest lasting ratchet head we've ever made.
• 36 tooth engagement is at 10° allowing torquing in confined areas.
• Long Handle provides more leverage.
• ASME specifications, traceable to N.I.S.T. at no charge.
Last edited by ronjenx; Jun 10, 2009 at 08:10 PM.



