Thank you I'll try calling them tomorrow and see what they have to say. But from the sounds of things I may just sleeve it and stay way from a truss. I want to keep as much flex as I can

 

I have the Artec truss and running a full custom lift at about 3.5" and 37's.

 

Two of my friends have now cracked there upper oil pan on the 3.6 with the Artec truss. Both were on d30's one with 4.5" of lift with 37's and one with 3.5" of lift with 35's. My 3.8 Rubicon is fine but there is definitely some major trimming on the truss needed for the 3.6 engine

 

I used the G2 truss, pretty low profile compared to artec. That may be a better option for clearance.

 

Hmm does Artec know ?

 

Was this done with just standard flexing? Or were they jumping where both springs were compressed at the same time?

Man - I better go check mine now

 

That's a ton of flex if you can reach the upper oil pan. Most people are concerned with their lower.

 

Let's be reminded to all check our travel and bump stop length.
Especially when adding meat to the top o the axles.

 

I have an artec truss with a 2.5" lift. The kit came with 2" bump stop for the front so I could fit 35s without tearing off my stock fenders. I still rub at full flex and turning but I haven't hit anything new with the truss. A good 2.5" lift should lift a sagged heavy suspension a little over 4" (closer to 3" over stock).

 

My Artec truss was hitting my front trackbar bolt at the frame mount. This was with 3" front bumpstops. Part of this depended on what length I had my lca's set at. But to get 4 degrees castor with stock upper arms I needed to notch a small area of the the truss about 1" long x 1/4" deep. As far as I can tell this was the only area it hit anything on my 2011 JKUR.

I probably could have just reversed the bolt but it was faster to just bust out the grinder and some spray paint, lol...