Well it looks like I'm comfortable to stay with the Dana 30 for a long time. Just beef up the weak points and I should be good for what ever in my skill level.

Additional question; Thinking about going with the RIPP SC. With that, should I go with 4.10s instead of 4.88s? Again, most of my wheeling is in desert roads or sand dunes. Most towing would be under 2000 pounds for sure.

 

no, it isn't better to leave the factory shafts as a fuse. the problem with them is that they come with c-clips as opposed to full circle clips and, this ultimately leads to preventable u-joint failure. trust me, if you play hard enough, you'll still end up breaking a shaft well before a reasonablly sized ring and pinion or drive shaft. if you can prevent a dumb break like the kind a c-clip falling off can cause, i say make the upgrade and prevent it from happening.

 

Sorry WOL, I have to somewhat disagree. Of course using upgraded shafts and upgraded shafts as trail spares would be ideal. But the cost is huge. Why not just carry used OEM shafts?? C clip failure? just have them tack welded in! I got a set from one of the yards I deal with for 60 bucks! A far cry from the $1000.00 give or take for chromos.

Again, all comes down to money and your uses. The furthest I go from home to wheel is about 2 hours away. In the event I ever did snap a shaft or anything else, getting the jeep home really wouldnt be a problem even IF it was some sort of catastrophic failure and I needed a flat bed.

 

no need to apologize, you're more than welcome to disagree with me all you want

also, i don't know where you like to shop but, a set of dana 30 chromo shafts only cost about $599

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...G22152&cat=277



last but not least, tack welding your u-joints can do the job of holding them in place but, not everyone has the means or the know how to do that. and, this still wouldn't do anything to help beef up the splines or shaft strenght. the way i see it, if you can help prevent a break in the first place, everyone has a good day but then, that's just me - you're free to disagree with me

 

If you were to go with 4.10 I plan on getting my 5.13 in the near future and could sell you my 4.10's

 

Well isn't that somethin!! I hadnt priced out shafts in a few months but thought the last few I saw were running 500 bucks or so per side, and I thought I looked at the Tens. (BTW I do shop an NR)

I guess the way I always saw it was I'd be FURIOUS if I ever broke an expensive chromo shaft, and always had the theory that stronger shafts would lead to possible R&P failure, which would a PITA fix compared to replacing a shaft.

Good points though. BTW I had a D60 and Sterling 10.5 ready for building for a while, but the costs I was going to incur made me scrap that idea (for now anyway), so I'm definatly pro-stronger axles so to speak, I'm just anti spending money

 

well, it can happen, god knows i've been able to break a dana 44 chromo shaft but, even ten factory offers up a 10 year warranty and, i know they'll honor it.

oh, and it is, let me tell you but, if you keep your r&p to a 4.88 on a dana 30, your odds of that happening is greatly reduced. at 5.13, the pinion gets to be really really small and at this point, the odds of you breaking one is a lot greater.

 

where can i find shafts for that price for a 30?

 

All very true One thing I will say is I take it VERY slow on trails, I'm sure other guys beat their stuff harder (hehe) and are more prone to some sort of failure. Oh and thanks a lot, now you've got me looking at those ten shafts, and I literally just got 6 boxes from NR to my door 2 days ago. Wife's gonna be pissssed...

 

right here

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...G22152&cat=277