Hey Everyone - I'm going to be looking for some 37's in a few months, probably around may/june. I would like a tire with a good tread life, so an A/T would be the route to go but I want to see who has an M/T(that doesn't beat the hell out of it) and has some good mileage on the tread. I'm curious what the tread-life on some of these MT's are...

BFG KM2's
Goodyear MT/R's
Nitto Mud Grapplers
Mickey Thompson MTZ's
Toyo Open Country MT
Dick Cepak Radial Mud Country

and any others I left out of course. I'm well aware of differences in weight, road noise, ratings, etc...Any and all feedback is appreciated....GIT-R-DONE!

 

I had Mickey Thompson MTZ's on my last rig and got about 40k mileage on them. They were 33's.

The 35" Goodyear MTR/K I am running now are one year old and I expect they will last about the same 40k based on treadwear so far.

 

Big weight difference from a 33 to a 37 tho and I'm no scientist but added weight will wear the tread quicker, agreed?

 

of the pick, BFG's last the longest. depending on how often you rotate your tires and assuming your toe is set correctly, the rest will yield about 40k or so.

 

I rotate every oil change and toe is spot-on. So, an A/T is only getting like 10k more in tread-life? (if you wanna word it that way) I know, stupid question - what is the point of an A/T then besides squeezing out some extra miles?

Glad to know that I can push about 40k then out of a M/T with proper rotation and toe.

 

at's are typically quieter, have less rolling resistance thus providing better mpg and behave better on wet, icy/snow terrain.

 

I rotate my BFG KM2's every 3000 and have 18,000miles with over half tread left. They are also the first set of MT's I've owned that haven't dry rotted from heat due to highway driving. I have a JKU with schrockworks bumper and XRC12 winch with a Rancho rear, tire carrier and full spare so it is quite heavy.

 

Noise is OK, i'm fine with that... everyone likes better MPG's of course, but I don't expect my rig to be a hybrid - but now that you mention the "roll", A is the lowest load and later down the list is higher loads, correct? Where do majority of the MT's stand with the load range?

 

I'll just add that if you do a 5 tire roation instead of a 4 tire rotation you will get a bit more longevity out of them also.

 

"load range" is not the same thing as "roll" or "rolling resistance". most mt's are load range c or d but a few are load range e. e's will have the thickest sidewalls and do the bet to prevent failure here but, they will also offer a firmer ride. if you do a lot of road miles and ride comfort is critical, a load range c will do a much better job of doing that.