Hey everyone so I have a 2015 JKU running on 34's. Jeep has 98K on it. I hope everyone reading this is sitting down......in shocking news my radiator is leaking! Oh my! I realize that as you all recover from the shock of reading that I was curious to see if when you replaced the radiator did you just say screw it and do the water pump when you were in there anyway. If so, any suggestions on what you replaced it with?

Next one, Steering....So I've replace pretty much everything but the trackbar and the steering box. The steering is so horribly vague it's like driving drunk/ Figured that it has to be one of those since I literally replaced everything else in the front end. Thinking a Yeti or a Rock Krawler Trackbar but for the steering gear I'm thinking either Redhead Steering Gear or a Redneck ram Hydraulic assist from West Texas. Any experience with either?

Clutch- Thinking of Centerforce replacement?

Regearing- Currently have 3.73 open rear up front, limited slip in back. It's a DD so go to 4.11 or 4.56 and for lockers front or both?

Think I'm totally out of money after all that...lol. Though maybe I'll sell a kidney and add some more upgrades!

 

Welcome to JKF.. for the creative 1st post.. ok, now .. so far I have not had an issue; but Water Pump & thermostat with Radiator.. I probably would while it is apart, new belts too, maybe tensioners. MOPAR all the way (it went this far so why chance A/M).. Same for Clutch MOPAR. Being as I am re-gearing for 34.5s and chose 4.11s and have rear factory LSD but if it looks bad at time will replace with Yukon or Eaton (I took mucho recommendations for 4.56.. mine is DD - might go to Rausch Creek 1 time a year..) Cannot speak to the track bar or steering gear at this time. Good LUCK

 

I have almost 100k on my '13. I replaced the radiator this summer and I replaced the WP at the same time (with a Mopar unit) just cuz it's so much easier with everything out of the way. I figured it was early but nbd, preventative thing. The inside of the gasket was pretty pitted which I found interesting. Pictures of that WP and gasket in my thread here -

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...nstall-354457/

If you do happen to replace yours, I'd be really curious to see what the inside of your gasket looked like.

As far as TBs go, I would not use a RK unit with their anti-wobble joint. Pick something with more of a bushing for that component. Metalcloak and Synergy have great joints/TBs. If yeti is your style, fine.

The guys at WTO are great. I run their RNR myself. I believe they are currently on backorder for boxes so you might call and talk to them. They are a friendly bunch out there. I'll be honest, hydro was one of the best upgrades I think I've done, and I waited so long to do it. I was really going for the off-road benefits with 37" tires and lockers, but the pavement improvement was more than I would have thought. That said, at slow speeds, like in a parking garage making several 90* turns, sometimes you have to be a bit patient for the steering to keep up. That is the only drawback.....like if you are going full lock to full lock in a quick sequence. I can't say you need hydro or not, but it's nice. I would say take the comments of "oh, i have hydro and now i never have to steer into a side wind!" with a huge grain of salt.

I can't help with the clutch.

As far as gears, the ole rule of thumb is you have to move at least 2 gear sets to make it worth it financially. IMO, the real sweet spot with the 3.6L engine at high end is around 2600-2700 RPM @ 70mph. With a 3.6L manual, and tires that likely measure closer to 33", that is 4.56. Kinda food for thought. We all have opinions, but I wouldn't pay $1500+ just to get 1 bump in gearing. It's not that noticeable.

What kind of wheeling do you do? Do you really need lockers, and if so, how do you see them helping you? Do you do a lot of technical rock climbing up there in NY? LSD it typically really nice. Do you find yourself pulling up to things where a locker would make the difference of you getting up and over vs. not? Just asking questions as lockers are a large expense. At the very least, typically people with leave a front D30 open as lockers in and D30 gears can typically be a bit much.....boom.

 

@Jay2013jk Thanks for all the info so far. Great info too! Out of curiosity why do you suggest sticking with Mopar for the radiator and clutch? Just curious.

@resharp001 It's more of a DD than a rock buggy. We have mainly rocky trails here in upstate NY. I've wheeled them mostly with open/LS rears and for the most part been fine. There have been some spots though where it would've been helpful and we used to have one in the rear of our old XJ and loved it. I figured if I did regear it's al opened up anyway but you have a good point on the financial. Guess I could save a few bucks and mount a winch instead of lockers since I already have the bumper for it. As for Redneck I heard great things and their box is only 200 more than RedHead and you get hydro-assist which with Redhead it's just the steering gear. I was looking at the Synergy TB too. Not really set on any specific brand though. My tires actually measure out to 34 x 11 believe it or not, forgetting the P-metric size off the top of my head right now but they are good tires, Cooper AT3 XLT's. The gearing isn't horrible but seems to lack in the low end which is why I was thinking of regearing.

 

I woudl look at Synergy for steering, Metal Cloak has redeigned theirs and is pretty nice. If you can fab look at barnes 4x4 or ruff stuff steering. Either will save you a bunch of money. What size lift and brand are you running now?

 

I have a 2.5 AEV left on it right now running 285/75/17...aka 34x11

 

A lot of folks have determined the Mopar unit was just the way to go. That said, there was a price increase on em not too long ago, and they almost cost as much now as the Griffen aluminum which is why I opted to try that (bit more capacity).

It sounds like for your use Hydro and lockers are a bit overkill, but I wouldn't tell you to do them or not.....it's your build. If you do regear and want to add traction control, maybe just lock the rear and put a Trutrac up front. One thing negative thing I'd say about the RNR is I hate the lines they send, along with the straight or 90* fittings for the ram. I have thought hard about replacing mine with the lines from PSC and their 45* fittings.

 

Thanks Resharp001! I know it seems a tad overkill....lol. I guess my train of thought was the steering was only $200 more and if I was going to regear and had everything torn out anyway that I'd lock up the rears. I like your idea though of just doing the rear and trutrac up front. Still out on the clutch choice though.....

 

for what its worth my 16 rubicon is on 35's, with the stock 4.10 gears and it fine

 

My 14 Rubicon is on 35's and while the 4.10s are fine and not worth the regear cost It would be better with 4.56s. Since you are regearing anyways do the 4.56