itsarubiconday

Okay, so I took a stock Rubicon Unlimited, put a 2.5" spacer lift on it, and put 35" mud grapplers on it. Boy what a mistake.

The rear tires rub on what I believe is the sway bar link. Not by much, so some spacers will handle that. But my big two "wtf"s at that the axle now sits something like an 1" or so to the passenger of the Jeep. And these 35s WON'T clear the factory rock rails. Anybody have and quick and easy fixes? Am I missing some magical piece of the lifting puzzle? Will a $30 Teraflex rear track bar relocation bracket fix all my woes? Is there a front bracket I should get too? Do I have to remove or at least cut another couple inches out of my factory rails to make this work?

I know, I know. Before anyone says anything, If I'd just cough up the $2,000 and get a real lift.... It's in the works. Hopefully by 1/2011 I'll do that, I just want to get by right now on a budget. HELP GUYS! Any info would be greatly appreciated as my Jeep sits in a parking lot.. . . . . . . .

JK-Tex

You need a new track bar to recenter your axle. The rock rails will need to be trimmed. It's not very hard and you can do that yourself.

You should be able to solve both these problems for around $150.

nthinuf

No, you don't need to go to a taller coil lift. But a few minutes of research would have shown that all of these issues are common, and fairly easily corrected...


Budget lifts are cheap for a reason. Because they don't have 'all' the components right out of the box!! They are simply an inexpensive way to add some height, and then you add components as you need.

Your axle is off-center because of the lift height. A trackbar bracket or new adjustable trackbar will fix it.

I'm assuming you have the TF 2.5? There is a note right in the product description saying that you may have rubbing issues on the links. It even suggest what backspace to use to avoid it. Another option is to move the links to the other inside, assuming you installed on the outside.

Plenty of posts and write-ups and pics of chopping off a few inches from the rock rails to give tire clearance. (I was in the garage 10 minutes ago doing exactly that...) Quick search will show lots of threads to help you out with this.

Due to the new height, your caster will be low. This may cause the handling to be very flighty and cause some bumpsteer. Again, it is a known issue that everyone that lifts runs into. If you don't like the handling, you'll need to add some components to correct the caster.
-Cam Bolts - cheap, but not the best option. They may slip on the trail, and you have to cut out some notches to install. If you go to adj's in the future, the holes need to be welded back up.
-Longer/Shorter 'fixed' arms - Will correct for a specific lift height, but no adjustability.
-Adjustable control arms - Best option. You'll only need one set up front.

Also check your brake lines, as they may be stretched too tight when flexed.

mkjeep

Put your rear sway links on the inside of the bar for now, cut 1 1/2in off the rock rail and trim the pinch seam. Roll like that till you get your wheel spacers, then you could move the links back to original position. Axle being off-center not that big a deal. Save for adj trackbars.

mkjeep

Also, if you don't have a saw to cut the rails, just take them off for now. The pinch seam can be cut with a hacksaw or just bend it over with a hammer and or pliers. You'll need a sawzall or torch to cut the rails though.

remark

Also once you get the adj track bars you may also want to pick up a ratchet strap if you don't already have one.

When you adjust the track bar you need to measure it and have someone push the jeep to center, but the ratchet strap makes it simple and more exact. I think WOL has it in his write up on his quick alignment.

itsarubiconday

So, based on the info you guys are giving, I'm guessing I'm calling this part the wrong thing. Here are a couple of photos...

So whats rubbing can't be turned to the inside. What is this?

Thank you for all the help and info though. I do appreciate it guys.

nthinuf

That is the swaybar.

And this is the reason it is rubbing
Re-centering the axle will fix it.

Or, maybe you can pull the whole swaybar over a bit? (And then push it back to where it is now when you get the trackbar bracket...)

mkjeep

Oh,wow, if I were you, I'd just pull the rear swaybar off so you can drive it till you get spacers and a rear trackbar bracket.

Mark Doiron

It's not clear to me, but it appears that OP is running 2.5" BB with 35" tires on stock wheels. The issues he's complaining about are due a combination of the axle shift with the large backspacing on the stock wheels. Replacing the wheels with better BS (about 4.5" is good) will solve the sway bar rubbing the tires by putting the tires out farther. The other option for this is wheel spacers (such as these). Fixing the shifted axle can be ignored, but if OP wants to will take a relocation bracket, or an adjustable trackbar.

Couple clarifications on this:

1. He has the Skyjacker BB (at least it says so on his profile page). Besides, doesn't the TF come with the trackbar relocation bracket?

2. Regarding adjustable control arms: Front lowers only to fix caster issues. But decide after driving whether you want to pursue this or not. Many live with the "flighty" steering until their next upgrade.

3. The TF BB definitely comes with the brake line relocation brackets. Even then, unless the owner wheels, the brackets may not be absolutely necessary, but they're good insurance against overstretching the rear brake lines. For less than a dollar at the local hardware store, this is an easy, ten minute fix:



4. If the owner wishes to fix the axle shift, might put a request for a trackbar relocation bracket on the WTB subforum. Many folks eventually install adjustable trackbars and remove the relocation bracket.