Do you have any other pics? Those welds look terrible!

 

Got lots of pics...the cast with the pot metal doesn't like to weld as clean as tubes heated or preheated gives some trouble.
On the housing where it comes down there is a plug weld that protrudes tip bit dips deep and always runs an funky line there.....2 different metals and a dip don't always make for a clean run....and with starting and stopping especially on cast it is not always as nice as it should be....rrr Not always but sometimes on the housing it runs a line that acts like its not getting gas... The welds on that side lower had a tip issue on stinger lol... I swapped it cleaned tip and checked flow....thought it was contamination or grounding issue (ground clamp moved)


It wasn't checked amperage and speed fine, the duty cycle was still fine.....i was considering the amperage output on the main internals as well, it had some trials getting strikes to start.....reason I know lol is it was frustrating and all the usuall culprits weren't the reason....metal was clean so that wasn't an issue no. Coating film on there....its happened a couple times over the year where its running fine then pops and pushes back and won't engage....I checked lead and it want crossed over ground or kinked...

So it was start stop check and battle.....

I can run a bead fine but haven't found an answer to why it did this a couple times over the past 4 months....not the prettiest but they are solid and with good HEZ. So I'm OK with these not being perfect as long as they dig in for bite.

Things I've checked wire date (new roll), pressure is on even under load, good wire feed (although it did make a weird noise on the roller motor during so I checked contacts on it), no kinked lines, good ground, ground clamp wire is tight on both ends, good gas flow at tip....

 

Why do you say that? I'm not trussing for looks... I'd rather have welds that do the job with good penetration than look super pretty. I don't think these look that bad at all. Granted there's a few spots that look funky but IDGAF so long as it works

 

Plenty of bite, aside of the welder not jumping hot on initial and jumping (lines not perfect on restarts) I know they are deep....
Don't sweat it, I'd be worried if I had porosity, no HEZ etc...I'm not about to grind and run a long burn for consistency and warp an axle either....not gonna happen...the welds are SOLID even with staggering onstart with jump....

My welds are usually spot on but given the choice between a beautifull weld and a solid weld I'll take the solid weld....

 

I would also like to have welds that are strong, but dont look like they were just slapped on by some entry level welder. If youre satisified, thats all that matters. I wouldnt have excepted that work personally. The welds that Brut4ce posted of his are what welds are supposed to look like. No theyre not Evo welds, but compare Brut4ce's pics to your peanut butter spread.. Plain and simple, those welds look like shit, but again its your rig and your happy with "penetration."

 

Well then the good news is this has already been addressed mike was showing pics of the truss not a paint job. The welds will be shaved down and relaid now that the stinger and wire fees have been fixed .
I offered to redo the areas he said not to worry about it because its not a bumper or armor and I had already insisted it be relaid in a few spots for aesthetics...structuraly its solid....so thanks for your input it was colorful to say the least.....

 

Simply pointing out the obvious. Im sure its solid with that much material layed down. Just follows one of my favorite sayings, "If you cant do it right, do it twice." I will leave this one alone from here on out though, dont want my colorful side to offend anyones work..

 

I picked up a Poison Spyder Hood Louver at off road expo. With the furlough continuing, I spent today installing it.

 

I kinda like that. You have to cut a giant hole in the hood for that one though dont you?

 

Bit the bullet on new Nitro Gear chromo axle shafts from Northridge4x4