Travis thanks for the fast reply's to some of our concerns. I prefer the regulator being in the engine compartment myself just in case i need to change pressure. A small change in cost wouldn't be an issue to me.

As far as the drain for the tank, skid and low profile petcock which ever it would take as not to get ripped off by what ever may slid across under vehicle .

 

Doing some research of my own and not being an expert or even a novice on air compressors maybe Travis or anyone else here can say if this is a viable solution to the petcock.

Pressure actuated automatic drain valve in this link ( Air Compressor Automatic Drain Valve ). They have it replacing the bottom existing petcock, which for us would make the situation worse. Here is my question if placed on the side of the tank in the unused plugged location and the bottom location plugged up being under pressure when valve opens wouldn't all the water still be expelled out like a spray can and solve the problem?

 

No problem, as I am open to feedback and anything that may improve our product.

That is a nice solution, but unfortunately the air pressure would not be enough to push the water out. I did a test with an angled drain, slightly higher than the picture a few posts above. I filled the tank with a measured amount of water. I then filled to 150 PSI and opened the drain to see how much water would be pushed out. It was next to nothing, which was a bummer. I would have thought the pressure would push the water out also, but it wouldn't. The angled drain, if placed low enough on the side of the tank, would work and get most of the water out especially if parked on an angle. But being the tank side port is so high on these particular tanks, there is no possibility of it getting any water out.

If we ever can and do switch to a custom tank, we will angle the drain as little as possible, just enough to clear the bottom and drain water. Find that sweet spot to serve both purposes.

In the mean time, and again, we DO NOT recommend this.... you can put a plug in the drain for optimal clearance. Just DO NOT remove under any circumstances when the tank is under any sort of pressure.

To all that have out system, we are actively looking for a better drain solution. We have not forgotten, and actually might have a lead on one that could work, but will post once we know for sure.

 

How about a drain like this



http://www.skygeek.com/f3qudrva1th.html

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That is odd you posted that, as that is the style we are looking into. Keep you all posted. I think this will solve the problem, but have a few things we need to confirm about it before we order a few samples.

 

Haha great minds think alike.

 

Travis, I'm thinking out of the box on this from your main idea but to avoid the skid plate idea for myself or waiting on one to be made.

Ok, My thought is looking at your whole system in its frame installed on the inside of the swing gate looks like it should fit no problem.

Depending on which way attached with a little modding can be made to fit with current tank or a more flush mount tank would need a new plug welded on. Now I have a aftermarket bumper swing arm which is taking the weight of my spare so the added weight shouldn't be a problem. Seems like it maybe the perfect setup easy to drain open door. air hose could attach to outside of door. I also think it would look good here.

Do you see any flaws in doing this with your setup?

 

Finally bolted on but not quite wired up yet.. How much do I need to worry about the hoses and heat from the exhaust? I mounted the filter in the recommended location. The whole line runs pretty close to the exhaust. I got most of it under the heat shielding but there are parts that are exposed and maybe 4" away. Same with the air chuck. Ran along with the brake lines to the front bumper. There's a bout a 2' section of the lines that have heat shielding. Did my best to tuck behind and fasten in place.

I little longer length of hose for the filter relocation would have been helpful but otherwise everything looks great so far.

 

When I first installed this system I got quite a bit of vibration and noise from where the bracket touched a floor pan cross-member (2012 JKUR). To eliminate that I picked up some big rubber washers at the hardware store. They look like fender washers. I put (4) of them between the bracket and the jeep body mounting points to get some isolation and a little gap at the cross member. It went from feeling like one of those vibrating beds to hardly noticeable, and I can barely hear it run if I'm driving down the road. I'd highly recommend everyone pick some of those up before your install.

I'll see if I can post a couple pics of my installation:



In the first pic, you can see my bracket was a little askew, making the compressors contact the tank when I hit some rough road. I reefed on it some and was able to get some clearance, so now it doesn't make contact. It also looks like its close to the muffler, but that's just the point of view. There is enough clearance.

For the air disconnect, I picked up a rubber 7/8" rubber bumper meant for canes (not shown). It slips snuggly on the air disconnect to keep debri and water out. I'll try to take a pic of that, as well as where I mounted my filters, when I get a chance.

With dual compressors, I can go from 15#'s to 35#'s in 1 minute (stock 32" BFG MT)

Regards,
Frank

 

I purchased an on board air set up from Jeep Swag several years ago. It came with a 400C compressor and a 2 gallon air tank with all the fittings and everything. I want to mount this system on my 2013. Are you currently offering any discounts or promotions right now? What's the best kit to order and who should I contact to order it? Thanks in advance, Clint.

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