Rugged Ridge Modular Snorkel System... Release date (June 2012)
#461
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Originally Posted by StuFarmer
As I mentioned earlier, I hope to have mine installed after thanksgiving. Has anyone considered insulating (header tape) the chrome intake tube.??? It seems to me it would help deflecting heat from the exhaust manifold.
#462
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Just a heads up for those installing with bushwackers flats. The lower part of the plastic part that goes inside the fender will push against the splash guard. This will affect the alignment of the bushwackers pushing them away from the body. If you force the splash guard back behind the bushwackers after install you will have a visible gap between the body and flare.
I solved it by making two cuts to relieve stress. Then I drilled two holes and zipped tied the splash guard to the flare.
It appears the stock fenders allow for more play in the splash guard. This is a heads up since these are a popular fender. For me it was the function of the RR snorkel that sold me so this is a minor issue.
I've included a few pics to show my solution, the gap when the flare is forced out, and how it looks a few feet back.
I solved it by making two cuts to relieve stress. Then I drilled two holes and zipped tied the splash guard to the flare.
It appears the stock fenders allow for more play in the splash guard. This is a heads up since these are a popular fender. For me it was the function of the RR snorkel that sold me so this is a minor issue.
I've included a few pics to show my solution, the gap when the flare is forced out, and how it looks a few feet back.
#463
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Just a heads up for those installing with bushwackers flats. The lower part of the plastic part that goes inside the fender will push against the splash guard. This will affect the alignment of the bushwackers pushing them away from the body. If you force the splash guard back behind the bushwackers after install you will have a visible gap between the body and flare.
I solved it by making two cuts to relieve stress. Then I drilled two holes and zipped tied the splash guard to the flare.
It appears the stock fenders allow for more play in the splash guard. This is a heads up since these are a popular fender. For me it was the function of the RR snorkel that sold me so this is a minor issue.
I've included a few pics to show my solution, the gap when the flare is forced out, and how it looks a few feet back.
I solved it by making two cuts to relieve stress. Then I drilled two holes and zipped tied the splash guard to the flare.
It appears the stock fenders allow for more play in the splash guard. This is a heads up since these are a popular fender. For me it was the function of the RR snorkel that sold me so this is a minor issue.
I've included a few pics to show my solution, the gap when the flare is forced out, and how it looks a few feet back.
#464
#465
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Originally Posted by GJeep
Drilling a clean smooth whole at the end of the cut prevents the cut from tearing further into the material.
#466
The idea is to make the tearing force spread around the perimeter, so at each point the force is much reduced.
I'd say not less then 5/16" diameter in this case.
Last edited by GJeep; 11-21-2012 at 03:03 AM.
#469
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I have just had finished installing mine with a specialised Wrangler workshop on 2011 JK Diesel CRD - it required small modification of air box but all. The rest fits perfectly.
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#470
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Sad to say no.... We will see our new lower air box sample the week of the 14th... This will need to be tested and then go into production... We changed the air box and clamping system to allow it to work for all years (07-13)...
Sorry, but better to correct it the first time than make patchwork changes.
Sorry, but better to correct it the first time than make patchwork changes.