ATTENTION - 2014 Wranglers have bad oil leak problems!
#261
I contacted a Dealership Service desk and asked them to check other dealerships in their system.
He said that his system is showing there are a few in Kingston, ON and Tonawanda, NY.
Might want to give those dealerships a call, if you're still looking.
I ended up finding a Mopar part at a non franchise auto parts shop in Mississauga.
#262
Mine started leaking this week. Add me the the list! Now to try and find one. 🤦🏻♂️
#263
JK Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Vero Beach Florida
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Lost all oil.
For 2014, Chrysler made a change to a part called the "oil filter adapter" which sits on top of the engine, under the intake manifold. There are now a parade of people with various Chrysler vehicles that use the 3.6L reporting that the new part cracks, causing a major oil leak, potentially a fire, and can cause your engine to be drained of all oil.
If you have had an oil leak, and the dealership told you the issue was the oil filter adapter, the oil cooler or the oil cooler cover, post up here. We are going to try to get pressure on Chrysler to at least redesign the part.
Part number is 68105583AA and it applies only to 2014 3.6L Chrysler V6 engines, at least so far. Similar issues have been reported with the new 3.2L V6 used in the Cherokee, but it apparently has a different part number.
This is a MAJOR issue if you own a 2014 Wrangler. There is no way to know if/when the part will crack, and if it does, it is not a trail repair. The adapter is buried under the intake manifold, and ever getting to it with some putty would be nearly impossible. You had better have extra oil with you at all times if you are trail riding a 2014 Wrangler.
Post here if you have the issue, and go to safercar.gov and file a complaint. If Chrysler doesn't fix this issue, you will never feel safe wheeling your 2014 Jeep in the backcountry. They need to fix this, NOW.
ALL 3.6L vehicles are affected, so if you know anyone with a Challenger/RAM 1500/Caravan/300/Durango or any other 2014 Chrysler with the 3.6L Pentastar, let them know to be constantly checking for oil leaks.
If you have had an oil leak, and the dealership told you the issue was the oil filter adapter, the oil cooler or the oil cooler cover, post up here. We are going to try to get pressure on Chrysler to at least redesign the part.
Part number is 68105583AA and it applies only to 2014 3.6L Chrysler V6 engines, at least so far. Similar issues have been reported with the new 3.2L V6 used in the Cherokee, but it apparently has a different part number.
This is a MAJOR issue if you own a 2014 Wrangler. There is no way to know if/when the part will crack, and if it does, it is not a trail repair. The adapter is buried under the intake manifold, and ever getting to it with some putty would be nearly impossible. You had better have extra oil with you at all times if you are trail riding a 2014 Wrangler.
Post here if you have the issue, and go to safercar.gov and file a complaint. If Chrysler doesn't fix this issue, you will never feel safe wheeling your 2014 Jeep in the backcountry. They need to fix this, NOW.
ALL 3.6L vehicles are affected, so if you know anyone with a Challenger/RAM 1500/Caravan/300/Durango or any other 2014 Chrysler with the 3.6L Pentastar, let them know to be constantly checking for oil leaks.
#264
Super Moderator
The usual problem that causes leaks is tightening the filter housing too much. To give an idea, if an owner has a 4 year old child, get them to hand tighten the filter housing. Basically it is when the top o-ring touches the base then you go 1/2 turn more by marking the top with a felt pen. It will not come undone.
#265
Wow - so where are the critics now?
Jesus, Joseph, and Mary. Lots of people in here were quick to get to their pitchforks and torches. I understand OP came on a little strong, but take it easy.
He's just trying to provide the forum with what he sees as pertinent information. He doesn't want someone to end up on the trail with a puddle of oil wondering what's going on, and why their engine is completely seized up.
Thank you OP for the information. Next time though, bring it down from 11 to maybe a 6 or 7. Not everything requires a hammer.
I'll have a 2015 Rubi X on order here in the next couple weeks, so I'll be keeping a watchful eye on my oil levels.
He's just trying to provide the forum with what he sees as pertinent information. He doesn't want someone to end up on the trail with a puddle of oil wondering what's going on, and why their engine is completely seized up.
Thank you OP for the information. Next time though, bring it down from 11 to maybe a 6 or 7. Not everything requires a hammer.
I'll have a 2015 Rubi X on order here in the next couple weeks, so I'll be keeping a watchful eye on my oil levels.
#266
Constant Oil Leak on 2014 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L 2 door
For 2014, Chrysler made a change to a part called the "oil filter adapter" which sits on top of the engine, under the intake manifold. There are now a parade of people with various Chrysler vehicles that use the 3.6L reporting that the new part cracks, causing a major oil leak, potentially a fire, and can cause your engine to be drained of all oil.
If you have had an oil leak, and the dealership told you the issue was the oil filter adapter, the oil cooler or the oil cooler cover, post up here. We are going to try to get pressure on Chrysler to at least redesign the part.
Part number is 68105583AA and it applies only to 2014 3.6L Chrysler V6 engines, at least so far. Similar issues have been reported with the new 3.2L V6 used in the Cherokee, but it apparently has a different part number.
This is a MAJOR issue if you own a 2014 Wrangler. There is no way to know if/when the part will crack, and if it does, it is not a trail repair. The adapter is buried under the intake manifold, and ever getting to it with some putty would be nearly impossible. You had better have extra oil with you at all times if you are trail riding a 2014 Wrangler.
Post here if you have the issue, and go to safercar.gov and file a complaint. If Chrysler doesn't fix this issue, you will never feel safe wheeling your 2014 Jeep in the backcountry. They need to fix this, NOW.
ALL 3.6L vehicles are affected, so if you know anyone with a Challenger/RAM 1500/Caravan/300/Durango or any other 2014 Chrysler with the 3.6L Pentastar, let them know to be constantly checking for oil leaks.
If you have had an oil leak, and the dealership told you the issue was the oil filter adapter, the oil cooler or the oil cooler cover, post up here. We are going to try to get pressure on Chrysler to at least redesign the part.
Part number is 68105583AA and it applies only to 2014 3.6L Chrysler V6 engines, at least so far. Similar issues have been reported with the new 3.2L V6 used in the Cherokee, but it apparently has a different part number.
This is a MAJOR issue if you own a 2014 Wrangler. There is no way to know if/when the part will crack, and if it does, it is not a trail repair. The adapter is buried under the intake manifold, and ever getting to it with some putty would be nearly impossible. You had better have extra oil with you at all times if you are trail riding a 2014 Wrangler.
Post here if you have the issue, and go to safercar.gov and file a complaint. If Chrysler doesn't fix this issue, you will never feel safe wheeling your 2014 Jeep in the backcountry. They need to fix this, NOW.
ALL 3.6L vehicles are affected, so if you know anyone with a Challenger/RAM 1500/Caravan/300/Durango or any other 2014 Chrysler with the 3.6L Pentastar, let them know to be constantly checking for oil leaks.
My vehicle has been leaking now for about 2 months. After a month the oil level was low, so I topped off the oil. It seems the majority of the leak is occuring towards the rear of the engine block, though its hard to say exactly where the source is. Now I am not sure how to proceed, this doesnt seem like a problem I can self diagnose or fix. Has anyone had luck in repairs? If so what was the diagnosis and cost?
#267
JK Jedi
Odds are almost certain it's coming from the oil filter assembly/oil cooler.....either the unit itself of bad o-ring. The entire intake, upper and lower, has to come off to access the valley where the oil cooler sits. It's not a technically difficult job to DIY and requires no special tools, but you are either a DIY person or you are not. Most of us are replacing these with aftermarket aluminum units that run ~$150 +/-. You can also just buy new o-ring sets for the factory unit, but without getting in there yourself it's a gamble if it's the o-rings or the unit itself. I'd imagine book time on this job at a shop is maybe 2 hrs labor?? I can have the intake off and be staring at oil cooler in ~20-25 minutes. Most the time is cleaning up a mess down in the valley. Depending on shop and their labor charge, and what you do with the part, you could be looking anywhere from $400-$900 I would guess.....with high end being at a dealership. Depending on the age and mileage of the jeep, good time to replace spark plugs too while that intake is off cuz it coveres up the driver's side plug access when installed.
#268
JK Freak
For sure, if you're taking the intake manifold off, do the plugs and the coils; it's a PITA job on the driver's side. If it's the oil filter/cooler, I've seen lots of posts where people went with the aluminum Dorman unit, only to revert back to OEM. Not having had that problem, I can't weigh in on what replacement is best.
#269
Odds are almost certain it's coming from the oil filter assembly/oil cooler.....either the unit itself of bad o-ring. The entire intake, upper and lower, has to come off to access the valley where the oil cooler sits. It's not a technically difficult job to DIY and requires no special tools, but you are either a DIY person or you are not. Most of us are replacing these with aftermarket aluminum units that run ~$150 +/-. You can also just buy new o-ring sets for the factory unit, but without getting in there yourself it's a gamble if it's the o-rings or the unit itself. I'd imagine book time on this job at a shop is maybe 2 hrs labor?? I can have the intake off and be staring at oil cooler in ~20-25 minutes. Most the time is cleaning up a mess down in the valley. Depending on shop and their labor charge, and what you do with the part, you could be looking anywhere from $400-$900 I would guess.....with high end being at a dealership. Depending on the age and mileage of the jeep, good time to replace spark plugs too while that intake is off cuz it coveres up the driver's side plug access when installed.
thanks for the response! I am a DIY guy, any videos or instruction protocols you recommend for getting to the oil cooler? Also, it seems you all are more comfortable with the aftermarket aluminum cooler as you believe the one included by Chrysler is defective? Just trying to make an informed decision on what part to buy once I do diagnose the problem. Also once I do get to the cooler will it be obvious what is causing the leak?
#270
JK Jedi
thanks for the response! I am a DIY guy, any videos or instruction protocols you recommend for getting to the oil cooler? Also, it seems you all are more comfortable with the aftermarket aluminum cooler as you believe the one included by Chrysler is defective? Just trying to make an informed decision on what part to buy once I do diagnose the problem. Also once I do get to the cooler will it be obvious what is causing the leak?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That unit came completely assembled and ready to pop in. What I would say is that the original Dorman aluminum units only came with the filter housing. You then had to disassemble your oil unit and move the old oil cooler over. That opened an opportunity for failure IMO. I have seen a couple people not happy with the Dorman aluminum, but I can't say it if had to do with that aspect or what. I tried to inspect my failed factory unit closely, but I really could not tell where the leak was coming from. The real issue IMO is you're not digging down in there just to chance replacing the o-rings and hope that's it. The parts aren't that expensive so it's better to just replace the whole thing IMO. These days there are so many different aftermarket aluminum units out there. I certainly wouldn't pick the cheapest thing. It feels like a gamble regardless what you choose.....factory, o-rings only, cheap aluminum, pricier aluminum.......
The job is not technically difficult and you should find a lot of vids on YT. Here is quick thread I did on mine but its not really a DIY or anything. Note my comment on a 12-pt 1/4" socket. If you have not removed your intake before you'll probably have fun dinking with just getting down to the cooler. I scrapped the engine cover on my jeep long ago, and that dumb little bracket that sits back by the firewall for that. That probably saves me a few minutes to get in there quicker than some folks.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...talled-359297/