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Best description is a water flushing sound

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Old 04-03-2015, 09:05 AM
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Default Best description is a water flushing sound

thats the best i can come up with....it comes from behind my dash, the stereo area, and sounds like some sort of fluid, swooshing or flushing when i take off.

doesnt happen everytime but it happens very frequently...

anyone have this same issue?? or have any clue as to what it is?? could it be coolant??
Old 04-03-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by psheffern
thats the best i can come up with....it comes from behind my dash, the stereo area, and sounds like some sort of fluid, swooshing or flushing when i take off.

doesnt happen everytime but it happens very frequently...

anyone have this same issue?? or have any clue as to what it is?? could it be coolant??
Yep sure do!!! Had this issue with my 2013. Happened in the morning mostly when first started and coolant would circulate through evaporator behind dash. There is air in the lines. The dealer had mine for about 1 week. They did everything even jack up just front of vehicle and tried burping it. They told me it is a design flaw the purge valve or air drain is at location where it doesn't allow for the air to escape. They finally got it fixed. They even removed some casting sand from system or at least that is what the tech said.
Old 04-03-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ExpoJK
Yep sure do!!! Had this issue with my 2013. Happened in the morning mostly when first started and coolant would circulate through evaporator behind dash. There is air in the lines. The dealer had mine for about 1 week. They did everything even jack up just front of vehicle and tried burping it. They told me it is a design flaw the purge valve or air drain is at location where it doesn't allow for the air to escape. They finally got it fixed. They even removed some casting sand from system or at least that is what the tech said.
So something i should get looked at you think....doesnt sound like something i can do myself
Old 04-03-2015, 10:38 AM
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Yeah some air in the cooling system. I have a nice incline in my yard that I park on that gets the radiator fill up high. I let it cool of enough to remove the cap. Top it off with the correct anti-freeze. Then squeeze the upper hose and watch for air bubbles. Continue the top off and burping to it's good and cool. Make sure it's full and put the cap back on. Make sure the over flow is roughly at mid level. Start it up and let it reach operating temp. Then I let it cool again enough to remove the cap. Repeat the fill...burp until no more air.
Old 04-03-2015, 10:39 AM
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Due the barometric pressure or the fluctuation of the radiators pressure system.. your radiator and heater core are on the same system.. with the fluctuation of pressure.. the antifreeze moves through this hose lines.. Often if the temperature rises slightly, the radiator reservoir can fill or sypen off by itself assuming you have properly maintained the antifreeze level. because one turns on and off the heated element.. the antifreeze will cycle through the system based on where it's needed.. Do not add any antifreeze to an open radiator cap unless (after examining) the antifreeze is extremely low within the system.. but typically all that's needed is to add antifreeze to the coolant reservoir. Lastly, often one can start the engine, and turn on the heater and allow the system to purge..
Old 04-03-2015, 11:23 AM
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when the jeep is parked flat the reserve is at the correct level....i havent checked under the rad cap yet...when i do should the level be to the top?? i've removed the cap before on previous vehicles but i cant remember what the level looked like....

also....would this issue have anything to do with my heat not working on occassion, or would that be the Blend door actuator motor
Old 04-03-2015, 03:32 PM
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Firstly.. The antifreeze should be just below the cap seal line.. There is a mark on the reservoir also which indicates the min/max level of fluid at any given time.. granted these level will change based on the systems pressure and the current temperature as explain above. make sure that the cap locks twice.. One turn isn't enough.. Also.. one other cap that I would like to suggest you get is the pressure cap as offered by Stant. If you had one of these caps.. All you would have to do is flip up the red lever when the engine had just started up to expel any air pockets.

As for the heater not working.. this should not be an issue.. Unless there is actually a leak in the system or lines running to and from the heater core.. have you noticed a sweet smell of antifreeze inside the jeep at any time.. Not to mention if one leaves the air vent open one would get other road smells.. just so that one is aware of which smell is associated with your jeep. I thought at one point I heard someone say that parking the jeep down hill or up hill (not sure which) and allowing it to run can help purge the system or pressurize the system correctly.

Last edited by JeepersDigest; 04-03-2015 at 03:34 PM.
Old 04-08-2015, 10:44 AM
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Heater core is above the radiator fill neck on JK's so getting the air out of it is a bitch. Lysle funnel seems to work or have your dealer power flush the cooling system.
Factory defect, there should be no charge. DON"T let them mix coolant types. They look very similar.The non ASE certified oil change monkeys do it all the time. Make that crystal clear.

Air trapped in the cooling system, very common problem on new JK's. Happened on mine. Hopefully your heater core isn't plugged with sludge.
Climb under your Jeep with a flashlight and look for sludge in the bottom of the coolant overflow tank. If you find it start reading. Tons of threads on it already.



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