So filled and drove, not a darn bit of differance. Grrrr.

Went to parking lot did tight circles no tires chirping. Engaged 4lo, engaged rear locker did tight circles rear wheels chirped like mad.

Disengaged rear locker, did tight circle no chirping..... Locker is working.

But damn clicking/ clanking still there.

Sorry to turn this into a blog but.... At least its a complete attempt.

 

Is the clicking get faster or slower w/ speed increase/decrease? Had some similar issue as you had posted here and finally took mine in, ended up needing a whole new rear end. Luckily warranty is covering it. Diff was leaking, axels locked up and were spinning both tires together (w/o a locker mind you) and spider gears were getting so hot they were actually turning blue. Had to replace ring, pinion, spider gears, axel, etc. All started b/c the cross pin came loose and started hitting the ring gear and tore it all up. Good news is, I'm getting a new posi-rear end.


~JDub

Sent from this Dang Thing

 

The clicking isnt consistent it comes and goes, doesnt make a sound under harder acceleration ever, just when starting off but after a few seconds, then again for sure in second gear ie neighborhood driving. Does it at freeway speed ie 6 th gear doing 80 km again low rpm low throttle, but at that speed it isnt a fast clicking more of a clunking, same type of frequency as at slow speed but happens faster, does it on throttle not off it at all.

Thinking it has to be the drive shaft bearing or the bearing going into the rear end.

Could still be the rear locker being only partially engaged, ie when really stressed it releases but when only lightly stressed it engages it self again. As in my pictures it appears only the tip of the tapered lug is engaged, as obviously the thrust ring is not recessing it self back far enough.

Whatever it is should explode soon getting worse every day. Should just go wheel the hell out of it till it breaks.

 

I had a clicking noise that turned into a whine at my rear diff. Started only at slow speeds then elevated to constant. Mine was the dust shield on the drive shaft. Might be something to check.

 

Mattgt5 this is why this place rocks, great idea, will check it thanks.

Makes sense as light load is applied to drive shaft might be enough to loosen it enough to waggle about.

 

So with the help of a buddy and me hanging out while driving its the rear u joint cv joint rattling.

Also im sure the rear axle bearings and the rear diff output shaft bearing are shot too, plus im pretty confident the front bearings could use a replace as well on wheels and diff.

Have a massive home reno to complete first then can tackle all the above myself. I figure $2000 in parts and a week to complete on my drive way.

In the mean time ill be searching for new OEM drive shafts, someone has them lying around after a big lift in Alberta im sure.

 

I'm in ontario and have a brand new 2013 front driveshaft and trans case flange for sale. $200 plus shipping.

 

Thanks for the offer but with shipping i think that would be nearly half the cost of a new JK reel. You know what they say if its half the cost of nee just buy new.

 

So at long last i got around to dropping some money into trying to fix my problem, i bought a je reel drive shaft and had a shop ($430 yikes) install it, i was waaaaay too busy personally to get without a vehicle for a few days, or take the time i didnt have to do it myself.

Turns out rear drive shaft cv joint was the issue, problem 100% solved.

Vibration got way worse in first and second gear, noise got way way worse.

Tech had a heck of a time getting differential yoke out, and many flange bolts broke.

 

Glad u got it fixed!