FWIW.... A few days after my LA install the exact same noise you describe began coming from the front end area of my 2010 JK...I climbed underneath and noticed a small spray pattern of grease along my heat shield just above the CV joint and input shaft of the transfer case. The CV boot was ripped due to the increased angle and was spraying lube all over the place. My TW driveshaft arrived today along with my AFE high tuck exhaust and ARB diff covers..!!! After tomorrow the clicking should be replaced by a hefty rumble...

 

Took about 3 hours to install....1 of those hours was spent driving to NAPA to get a 1 1/4 socket to remove the OEM transfer case input flange nut.....so in all about two hours.....of which the last hour was spent working in a souther La down pour...but I was running out of daylight so I had to take an amphibious approach.. :-)



Off with the old





On with the new





JK wood...!!

 

Oh and the ticking noise.....? Gone..!!!

 

How were the output shafts from diff and T case to get off ?

My tech said mine were a complete ignorant chore to dislodge, although mines a 2007 with 137,000 km, 3.5 hour job for him in a gear shop

 

A lot easier than I thought they would be. A 3-5 second burst with a 1/2 impact to knock the nuts off of each to begin with. I purchased a quality dead blow mallet and as fallback a harmonic balancer puller kit. As it turned out a few well aimed double taps with the mallet got them both moving smartly. Tomorrow I will see if NAPA will take the puller kit back..!!

If I had it to do over again I would have done the following different:
1. Placed jack stands under the front axel. It would have prevented the keystone cop routine of jumping in and out of the vehicle to spin the shaft to remove and instal the flange and yoke bolts...it got stupid.
2. Put the shaft in the shade for an hour or so before I have it suspended over my grape...it was holy shit....FPF barrel change hot...!
3. Bought an 1-1/8, 1-1/4 and 1-5/16 sockets link the video on TW's website said...instead I pulled a L/Cpl and only bought the 1-1/4.....my differential flange nut was 1-1/8 and the TC flange nut was 1-5/16......WTFO. The TW replacement nuts were both 1-1/4.
4. Bought a high quality torque wrench.....who knows how accurate the 49.95 unit I bought was....
5. Used a proper shop with a vehicle lift.

I cant see this job taking a real deal mechanic with a proper lift and tools on hand more than 2 to 2-1/5 hours max....

BTW:
This TW shaft is a work of art...at least as far as driveshafts go....and their customer service cats are awesome...!!

If you need a shaft...get wood...!

S/F

 

In defense of tech..... My buddy while admiring my drive shaft, had it come apart in two peices, when he re assembled he didnt realign the two arrows by one spline. I never noticed tech didnt notice until it was installed and he had to remove and align.

Shop rate was $120 hr. paid $430

What did you do about the dust sheild on rear diff ?

 

Ummmmm.....Dust shield....???

 

Take a look at your old output shaft, there is a dust /debris sheild to protect the bearing seal.

My new output shaft did not have the dust sheild, tech said i could buy an oem output yoke and take the dust sheild off and then spot weld it in place around the new one.

I think he wrecked the old one getting it off. Im thinking put some silicone there to protect the seal from grit, rocks, trail pokey things.

See yellow tape area

 

Oh ok man...my TW output flange and input yoke both had shields on them.

 

OEM front flange
There is what looks to be a shield or guard attached to the flange. It doesn't seal so I cant see it protecting from anything other than debris being forced into the seal.




TW front flange
Doesn't appear to have the same or any sort of protective shield like the OEM unit. I looked at the TW website and the instruction sheet that was delivered with the DS and there is no mention of using the OEM shield or an upgrade option...so I guess I will put blind faith in TW that if they don't suggest a fix or address the issue...I am good.





OEM transfer case input, which has what appears to be a protective shield.





TW transfer case input yoke, which has what appears to be a protective shield.



Maybe direction of travel has something to do with it...?