Esp bas and traction light on with code c123f
09-11-2012, 11:30 PM
#21
JK Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by Keck27
How did you check your steering? How did you adjust it? Just pulled mine out of the driveway and ESP/bas and the traction control light all came on. No 4x4 or hard riding. Just backing out of the driveway. I want to start with the easiest fix first and work my way to the hardest most $$$. Seems like the steering thing could be the easiest.
09-06-2013, 06:35 PM
#22
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If you have the C123F code than you have steering angle sensor concerns. It can either be re calibrated, but if that dosnt fix the problem you probably need a new clock spring.
09-15-2013, 02:07 AM
#23
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I too have the ESP/BAS, Traction control, and ABS lights on, my horn does not work, and after start up usually after a half mile of driving or so my airbag light will come on. My steering wheel is straight, i read about the clock spring, but can that make the airbag light go off??
09-15-2013, 04:54 PM
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I had the ESP/BAS, Traction control, and ABS lights! I had my dealer look at it and they replaced a tire pressure sensor. I have driven over 1k miles and no problems yet!
09-15-2013, 04:57 PM
#26
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EPuffer- are you sure it wasn't a tire speed sensor (wheel speed sensor)? I've literally never seen any where online where a tire pressure sensor would set off the lights like that. The dealer may be pulling some shit there if they say the tire pressure sensor "fixed" that problem.
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09-17-2013, 04:30 PM
#27
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EPuffer- are you sure it wasn't a tire speed sensor (wheel speed sensor)? I've literally never seen any where online where a tire pressure sensor would set off the lights like that. The dealer may be pulling some shit there if they say the tire pressure sensor "fixed" that problem.
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07-30-2019, 07:39 AM
#28
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I know this is an old thread, but I found it by searching for Wrangler C123F, because I had that code, plus C123C, after a Jamboree trip. My steering wheel was about 2-3 inches off of center. By using this advice to adjust the drag link and center the steering wheel the codes went away. Here are some of the things I learned along the way.
My Jeep is a 2010 and the clamp on the drag link is pretty rusty. I ended up using a plumber's torch to heat it up and a pipe wrench to turn it. FYI there will be certain spots when adjusting, that even with a pipe wrench it is extremely hard to turn. My guess is that in these certain spots the pipe wrench is actually compressing this sleeve and working against you trying to turn it. Basically, it happens whenever the split is being forced close by the turning motion of the wrench. In these spots I found it easier to have just enough pressure from the wrench to grab the sleeve and used some swift hits from a hammer to move it.
It doesn't take much to adjust your steering wheel. I went too far and then had my steering wheel about 2-3 inches to the right. I estimate about one turn to adjust for my 2-3 inches off of center. Also, the direction info is correct, up moves the wheel to the left and down moves it to the right. Up and down referring to the front facing side of the sleeve.
Having a second person to watch the wheel while you adjust is very helpful. Or, like I saw on a YouTube video put some colored tape around the center of the steering wheel and then you can pop your head up and view it from the front of the Jeep.
The lights do not immediately go away. I had to go down to the beach and drive about 8 - 10 MPH, slow enough that I could turn the steering lock to lock (right to left to right to left) while driving, and I did this about 20 times. I am counting a turn from right to left as one time. Then I stopped and used my Superchips FlashPaq to clear the codes and this time the codes were gone. I saw a previous post about starting and turning left, then turning right, then shut down, then start and drive. This did not work for me. We have a manual and that post sounded like an auto, don't know if that has anything to do with it. You will need a wide road / area that is free from traffic to do this procedure. We are lucky enough here on the OR North Coast to be able to drive on the beach. I estimate you are covering 30 - 40 ft wide when steering side to side.
Thanks for the tips and I am so glad we fixed these lights with such a simple (zero cost) fix!
My Jeep is a 2010 and the clamp on the drag link is pretty rusty. I ended up using a plumber's torch to heat it up and a pipe wrench to turn it. FYI there will be certain spots when adjusting, that even with a pipe wrench it is extremely hard to turn. My guess is that in these certain spots the pipe wrench is actually compressing this sleeve and working against you trying to turn it. Basically, it happens whenever the split is being forced close by the turning motion of the wrench. In these spots I found it easier to have just enough pressure from the wrench to grab the sleeve and used some swift hits from a hammer to move it.
It doesn't take much to adjust your steering wheel. I went too far and then had my steering wheel about 2-3 inches to the right. I estimate about one turn to adjust for my 2-3 inches off of center. Also, the direction info is correct, up moves the wheel to the left and down moves it to the right. Up and down referring to the front facing side of the sleeve.
Having a second person to watch the wheel while you adjust is very helpful. Or, like I saw on a YouTube video put some colored tape around the center of the steering wheel and then you can pop your head up and view it from the front of the Jeep.
The lights do not immediately go away. I had to go down to the beach and drive about 8 - 10 MPH, slow enough that I could turn the steering lock to lock (right to left to right to left) while driving, and I did this about 20 times. I am counting a turn from right to left as one time. Then I stopped and used my Superchips FlashPaq to clear the codes and this time the codes were gone. I saw a previous post about starting and turning left, then turning right, then shut down, then start and drive. This did not work for me. We have a manual and that post sounded like an auto, don't know if that has anything to do with it. You will need a wide road / area that is free from traffic to do this procedure. We are lucky enough here on the OR North Coast to be able to drive on the beach. I estimate you are covering 30 - 40 ft wide when steering side to side.
Thanks for the tips and I am so glad we fixed these lights with such a simple (zero cost) fix!