It does it in all gears. Park N, drive it shakes slightly. I'm going to order MAP and a new PCV valve and try those two items first.

Is there any reason why removing the cam or CPS and cleaning it could damage or screw something up. I remember members saying they clean their wheel speed sensors so I figure maybe the same with those?

I leave Friday morning 3am for my trip. So I have 7 days. Otherwise we will see what happens on the 1200 mile drive down.

 

Cleaning the crank sensor is not a problem as long as the connector comes off OK. There is no gap to set, it's set by manufacturing tolerances. It's a 10 minute job to clean it, but I'd be more inclined to try your spare. It's a long shot for it to have a problem and not have a code, but it's a 10 minute job with almost zero risk.

The cam sensor is bathed in oil, which keeps it clean. The gap is normally set by a sacrificial spacer, but I came up with an alternate method in this link. It will set a code if it's bad, also check for pending codes. Given that it's being sprayed with clean oil continuously, and the gap has to be set, I wouldn't clean it.

A ways back I mentioned the EGR. It's a pain to change, especially with an auto trans, but keep it in mind.

The idle speed control is a complicated algorithm, it uses both spark timing and throttle position to adjust the idle RPM. Both throttle and spark have proportional and derivative, only the throttle plate has integral. I've spent some time tuning it, and essentially my opinion is that it's overly sensitive -- especially in stock form. What I'm trying to say is that minor problems (plugs, plug wires, injectors, EGR, throttle body, etc.) tend to get magnified, and make the idle far worse than it would be if the spark timing and throttle were constant.

 

OK so today for $10 I will replace the PCV Valve again but this time hopefully correctly (maybe this is the issue given the oil on the valve cover). I also got a MAP sensor which I will do tomorrow if if PCV valve does not work. Also good to have the MAP onboard for a trip like this.

 

So I reseated the PCV valve. Went to start the Jeep and it started but with a weird electrical noise. Now I tried to start it a second time and nothing. Reset the batter a few times. I turn key and nothing.

 

So I jiggle the starter wire (spade slip on terminal) and it starts right up. So weird.

 

PCV valve was not fully seated and oil on valve cover. I know I put it all the way down last time. This time it was just kinda sitting there. The first time I changed it also it was just sitting there. Never have I ever (lol) had to pry it up. All 3 times I just pick it up and out.

I seated it fully and went for a drive and same thing. I'll assume the picture is of the MAP sensor which I'm trying next. Is there a piece missing that holds the MAP sensor in place or screws?

 

MAP sensor looks a little gunked up.

 

Looks like you've got it worked out, good luck with the MAP sensor.

Interesting that you have had the PCV come out by itself too. Also strange that is doesn't mess the idle up very much, but it does suck oil. I'm pretty sure it gets sucked up into the tapered hose and makes a decent seal, then drops down as vacuum decreases.

 

Does the PCV valve look fully seated in the picture or does it go down further?

 

Yep, looks right. The trick is that it goes from tight to easy to wiggle when the rubber goes into the groove.