I have a 2013 JK Sahara. My right side rear seal has been replaced 2 times in the last 12 months. Just replaced less than a month ago for the second time. It’s leaking again. No wheel spacers.

Any suggestions why the seal keeps leaking? Maybe the shop I’m taking it to aren’t installing it correctly? Should I try taking it to a dealership?

 

Seals are really hit and miss. Some people seem to have a lot of issues, others go 100k+ miles with no issues. When they replaced the seal in the past, did they ever replace the bearings as well? Not saying that is the issue, just curious. What are they charging you to change these seals? Before you go to a dealer and likely blow a couple hundred bucks, consider that you can buy brand new chromoly shafts with new seals and bearings already pressed on for little over $500. Plug and play. Sounds like a lot I'm sure, but consider what you're into it by now and still needing to fix it.

if you did happen to buy shafts, you could sell your old shafts or keep as spares.

 

The other thing that I found out the hard way is the way the old races are removed can cause a leak. I used a small cutoff wheel and nicked the tube. Leaked every now and again. After I went in to replace them again, I attempted to fill and file to make the surface flush again. I've not had any leaks since then.

What I hate most is the amount of time and money it costs to get in there to replace a cheap seal. If you had the appropriate tools, you might could pull the "wedding band" without cutting it but it's $50 in parts and another $20 in gear oil each time I open it up.

 

sounds like a move I would have made.

 

Where do you get the chrome moly?

 

Northridge4x4 -

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/a...without-locker

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/a...-axle-kit-rear

They used to sell those Ten Factory shafts with the seals and bearings pressed on. Looks like now they're only doing that with the Revolution shafts. Guess if you look at those two links, paying ~$160 for having the items pressed on already. Seems a bit steep considering you get the parts with the Ten Factory shafts, but there's a lot to be said for plug and play items for most people I guess.

 

That same $160 difference can buy you a press from HF and you could do it yourself. I'm having a tough time recalling if my Revolution shafts came pre-assembled or not. I do know I had to run in my own studs (loctite and torque are essential). They have a lifetime warranty series but it only covers leaks for your first 30 days. They were incredibly generous and helped me find the source of the leak but the warranty is really against breaks in the shaft.

 

Since I threw out the new shaft thought........I'd be remiss if I didn't highlight what Karl noted above. Getting the old races out of the axle would be the real fun part of the job. The shafts are literally ready to be inserted, but you should really pull the old races out and hammer the new races in.

 

When I remove axle bearings/seals I do it the old blacksmith way. I cold chisel most of the way through the wedding band retainer and whack it with a 3lb hammer with axle placed on my 180lb anvil. It's gone. Then I wrap the bearing with a cloth and lay into it with the hammer on the anvil with a steady hand and safety face mask. Cloth stops splinters of steel. That inner shatters with no damage to the axle. I grind the rollers and cage off first. Been doing that over the last 45 years. Then to put them on I either press or boil the bearing in hot oil and quickly slide it on the axle. I used to rebuild really large electric motors and change bearings about 16" in diameter so the oil trick is good but as I said be quick and make sure seals and cups are on first and oriented correctly. I learned this the hard way.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Got rears replaced left and right $700 total). The dealership service department manager told me 24 months/24000 mile warranty parts/labor. Warranty will be honored with lift and if I decide to re- install my 1.5” adapters.

THE BIG QUESTION! what’s the thought on the adapters causing the leaks? 3” lift running 35” tires.