OEM E-Disco (Smartbar) Study.
However, it will not successfully reconnect until the splines line up.
If the t-case was in 4lo, and the sway bar was disconnected, when the ignition was turned off, it will re-disconnect automatically when the ignition switch is turned on, providing the t-case is still in 4lo.
Last edited by ronjenx; Dec 5, 2010 at 07:25 PM.
No and it's the only thing I don't like about the e-disco. I can and do forget to hit the button after I've shut off the engine.
Maybe he's got an AMC Eagle.
I was waiting for someone to point this out. Although I call my Jeep a truck all the time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcXC5IUOdFk
I was waiting for someone to point this out. Although I call my Jeep a truck all the time.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcXC5IUOdFk
Last edited by TheScientist; Dec 6, 2010 at 07:04 AM.
I started this thread to see how the e-disco works, and to try to improve its reliability by making it completely mechanical.
The conversion to mechanical is done, and it works well.
I have to fabricate a lever for the console. Right now, you can see the wooden release handle. The final lever will be one you pull back to an over-center position, so it will keep the release spring compressed, like the original actuator did.
Inside the disconnect housing, the disengage and engage springs are retained. This allows the lever to be moved to the position desired, and the disco will unlock when the torsion bar is unloaded, and re-lock when the teeth are aligned. There is no need for an indicator light, because the status will be obvious from how the lever feels.
Where the cable enters the disco case, there will be a boot to make it waterproof.
Here is a link to the conversion:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...isco-To-Manual
The conversion to mechanical is done, and it works well.
I have to fabricate a lever for the console. Right now, you can see the wooden release handle. The final lever will be one you pull back to an over-center position, so it will keep the release spring compressed, like the original actuator did.
Inside the disconnect housing, the disengage and engage springs are retained. This allows the lever to be moved to the position desired, and the disco will unlock when the torsion bar is unloaded, and re-lock when the teeth are aligned. There is no need for an indicator light, because the status will be obvious from how the lever feels.
Where the cable enters the disco case, there will be a boot to make it waterproof.
Here is a link to the conversion:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...isco-To-Manual
Last edited by ronjenx; May 22, 2011 at 08:07 AM.






took it straight off the jeep and put in on a Subaru.