Hmm...I was just following the project-jk write-up....

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ission-service

Who else agrees? That pushes the project into next week sometime after I make a 45 min drive to the nearest auto parts store or dealer. I am very careful with the RTV, but I can see what you are saying. I wish there was a reusable gasket like for the diffs (although I don't own those either) so it would be a non-issue.

 

Regarding installing the transmission oil pan:

This is from the Factory Service Manual:

"Reinstall pan using new MoparŽ Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts to 20 Nˇm (14.5 ft. lbs.)."

Any brand of high temp silicone gasket maker will do. Use it sparingly. Apply a small bead on the pan and around all the bolt holes.

A gasket may be available, but good luck finding one.
A gasket will promote pan distortion at each bolt hole.

 

As per the JEEP service manual:

4.) Clean the oil pan and magnet. Reinstall pan using new MoparŽ Silicone Adhesive sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts to 20 Nˇm (14.5 ft. lbs.).


I do not believe the transmission oil pan flange is designed to accomodate a gasket. Only Silicone Adhesive sealant.

 

This tranny is supposed to use silicone for gasket. You just want to use it to lay a small bead along the seam and then you don't fill it for at least 45 minutes so it can have a pretty good cure. If you get carried away and lay a bead that is too thick it can make a mess but as long as you give it the cure time it should be ok.

 

it came with the factory that way so using rtv as long as it is sensor safe and temp rated will be fine.

however i had the same problem as you and a stripped out bolt hole as well. i finally gave up and ordered a lube locker gasket from 4wd it was well worth the 25 bucks and i am not in a hurry anymore. luckly the bolt i stripped out was due to another problem with drive shaft and it is the only bolt that goes all the way threw to the top side of the bolt hole. i retapped it and used a longer bolt with a nut on top since my drive shaft contacts the pan right there and pulled the threads out with the bolt.

 

I have "Snicker Bar" fingers, so I had a hard time also. I bought my new filter from Napa so it came with a silicone gasket. To get the last bolt in I had to remove a crossmember and jack up the transmission a little to get enough room for my fingers. Whats the deal with #5 bolt is it special or just the one that needs a thread glue?

 

I don't recall if it's a different length, or thread size. I just re-coated the one that came from that position.
Even if you get them mixed up, it's the only one with the thread sealer residue on it.

 

To be honest, I have never seen the factory service manual for the Jeep, and mine is a standard shift, so I have not serviced an automatic JK either. I used to turn wrenches for a living and have rebuilt my fair share of automatic transmissions and I have never seen one that had silicone sealer for a pan gasket. I did get out of the automotive repair business in 1994, so I'm sure some things have changed. One thing I have always been told was to never use RTV on an automatic transmission. I have to say I was suprised to learn that Crysler uses it. I did however search Advance Auto Parts website for his year Jeep and did find a filter/gasket available (part number FK-361) . I was unable to find one for one newer then his though. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

 

The silicone sealant worked very well when I serviced my transmission. It was easy to apply, and has not shown any sign of leakage.
The thing I like about it is the pan mating surface remains flat. I have seen many gasketed pans become distorted at the bolt holes when the torque crushes the gasket material.

 

X2 - Makes sense, which is prob why Chrysler went this way.