Strick

Okay...I am writing this with shaking hands I am so angry right now. I just hit 60k and am changing all fluids...oil, diffs, transfer case, and auto tranny. First 3..piece of cake. I started the transmission about 5 hours ago. I read the project-jk article and picked up the tools I needed (i.e. 1/4in universal). I knew it wasn't going to be easy getting the bolts behind the exhaust off, but I figured I would be able to get it. Few minutes and I had the pan off and drained. Changed the filter, no problems. Cleaned and applied RTV to pan, put the pan in place. I handtightened most of the bolts and started attacking the harder ones. Well I have all but one of them in. Needless to say it's been 3 hours and the pan is going to have to come off again and get new RTV, etc. ONE BOLT!!! It won't go on! The middle back drivers side one. There are two almost completely hidden behind the exhaust. This is the one closest to the drivers side. I have had it in the hole twice now, but can't get it to thread. What is the secret?!?! This can't be this hard. Do the Jeep techs drop the exhuast? I am about the cut the exhaust pipe out and forget about it...not really, but I am running out of ideas.

I am gonna pack it up tonight. I am assuming the pan comes back off now and hurrying to get this bolt on is no longer a priority above sleeping tonight. Any suggestions, moral support, anything would be helpful.

TINMAN080

Running into this type of situation is pretty common. Contrary to popular opinion, all bolts are not identical. remove one of the other bolts and switch them, the new bolt will start...

genesbro

One important thing with them is to start every bolt before you tighten any of them.

kittisman

I agree , if you start over tomorrow with all bolts out see if any are longer. Also try bolt in hole w/out pan in the way to make sure hole isn't stripped or go buy a slightly longer bolt.

calemasters

I did this job 4 weeks ago. The rear transmission oil pan bolts above the exhaust cross over are difficult to remove and to install. It helps if one has thinner fingers to help to get the bolt started. I used a loop of masking tape, sticky side out, and stuck the head of the bolt to the tip of my index finger and then guided the tip of the bolt into the threaded hole with my finger and then I turned the bolt about 1/4 turn by finger, so that I could then get the 1/4" drive socket with universal joint and extension on the bolt and then torque the bolt. I was just barely able to get the bolt in (the one that is giving you troble), but it was possible.

One you get tired and agraved, sometimes walking away for a while and then comeing back later helps. Of course, for this job, you are time limited due to the sealant cure time.

Good luck with the second try. I hope it goes better for you. You can do it. The techs at the dealer do this frequently. If you do find this impossible, you can always disconnect the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, but that should not be necessary.

Be careful, as the #5 pan bolt is unique. You may need to replace the sealing patch on the tip of this bolt. All other bolts are the same. Make sure the # 5 bolt goes back into the same location that it came out of.

NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt # (5) in the bolt hole located between the torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replentish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive, or equivalent.

EarlyJk

Put some hair around the hole it might help... Lol. Seriously it is difficult, the advice above my post is spot on, just have patience and good luck.

ronjenx

This is what I have to make those bolts much easier to install:

These work better than a universal socket.

Strick

I really appreciate all the replies. I have a little more confidence now. Going out of town for a second thanksgiving tomorrow so my next shot at this will be Sunday. I am not a small guy and do not possess small or even normal fingers so I might have to go with your suggestion ronjenx.

I knew about the #5 bolt and the loc-tite...of course I knew about it and bought the blue stuff, but didn't actually put it on.... Is it a particular bolt though? Or just a position? I should have kept some sort of order for bolts for re-install. I don't know why I would just assumed they were all equal. In fact I kept such poor track of them I had to fish one out of the trash which was FILLED will ATF covered newspaper.

Heck I should bite off more than I can chew but this is a "forever" vehicle for me so I should be putting a drain plug in the pan while I am at it, but I have never done that before...wait till 120k?

calemasters

I would not install a drain plug, since you have to remove the oil pan any way to service the filter. A drain plug is just another source for an oil leak.

ASTE25

This isnt really going to answer your question, however, you should never, EVER use RTV on an automatic transmission. I would recommend getting a new gasket and don't put any RTV on it. When you take the pan off again, clean any RTV off. The reason you do not use RTV in an automatic transmission is little bits of it can come off and clog up orfaces and stick valves in the valve body. As far as getting that bolt in, you may have better luck taking the exhaust pipe loose from the manifold so you can get to it.