EHarris

OK so I gave it one more go this morning and still nothing. PB Blaster soaked it all night and then used a torch this morning and still wont budge. I'm thinking the dealer could have cross threaded this into the block 100k ago when they did it. I may not be able to salvage the M6 x 1 thread if its damaged and could possibly end up have to go up a size with a new bolt?

Good news is I found a shop that can do it tomorrow they said for about $200 so that gives me tonight to try my hand at it and worse case I can always bring it there later this week.

This really sucks.

Seizer

You try a stud extractor yet EHarris? Last ditch try I guess with that, if it will even grip it. I’d go with Mr. T’s idea and heli-coil repair it.

EHarris

Took my time and drilled the stud out stepping up the bit size a total of about 10 times. I didn't have the M6 x 1.00 tap at my shop just at my house. So it will sit tonight with PB blaster in the hole and then I'll blow out the hole with air compressor and home more of the stud comes out. This was the largest diameter bit I could go without damaging the threads for sure.

I'm gonna try and tap it tomorrow but if that still gives me issues what type of helicoil would I be looking to purchase. Any tips on this process? Thread locker for it?

Mr.T

The right HeliCoil is the size of the original thread -- And the original bolt will get used. The process uses a special tap that the diamond shaped cross-section of the HeliCoil is wound into.

Best to Google their directions, it's been around for over 40 years -- industry, aircraft, automotive, etc. The end result is a stronger thread since the aluminum casting doesn't take the wear/friction and it's a larger diameter by a whatever the thread depth is.

NAPA carries HeliCoil, that's probably your fastest source. No need for thread locker, use anti-seez.

karls10jk

Yeah, helicoil kits are magic. I picked up one for repairing threads in a crossmember I bought. Drill to the exact size they call for, thread the piece in, snap the tang, then proceed with life. It wasn't a difficult process and sure is great retaining all original hardware so I'm not searching for another size wrench when I go taking things apart.

EHarris

I honestly have not done a helicoil since college and that was always in lawnmower engines. We used to turn them into go karts. lol Just wanted to make sure there isn't something newer or better out there that I have missed in the last 15 years since I have done one.

Today I will try and tap this with my M6 x 1 and see what I get. I think toque specs on this are about 105 in/lbs or about 9 lb/ft. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks for the help and support.

EHarris

Ohh and another question. All I have right now is High Temp Red RTV that I just used for my transmission pan. I was planning on using a very small amount for the gasket. I have the mopar replacement pump and gasket. Should I apply RTV to both sides or just the engine block side only? like an 1/8" bead?

Mark Doiron

I'm a helicoil fan, too. A friend of mine uses something which, instead of looking like a tightly spaced spring, is more like a thin tube with threads inside and out. He prefers them. Principal is the same. For this use, recommend the Helicoil set with their tap unless you have a bottoming tap. Most general use tap sets won't suffice because they are tapered, not bottoming.

EHarris

Thanks mark. I'll head to NAPA and grab a set with the tap if this doesn't hold today. Any advice for the gasket and red RTV?

Mark, I edited this post because after searching around I found your advice on a different post:

"Don't substitute anything for The Right Stuff: Use that--it is expensive, but amazing at sealing and holding the seal"

I'm assuming its the Permatex Blue??? I cant tell if there is a product called "the right stuff" or if its the right stuff and then they make it in different colors like Red = high temp Blue= water pump Green=Diffs ect.... but if this link below is correct I can grab it at AutoZone.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...licone-gasket/

Mr.T

I'd use Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket/sealer #3 -- And only a very thin amount on the side of the mopar gasket that doesn't have the sealer on it already. This is what I've used for decades on cooling system flanged gaskets, including the JK water pump.

Silicone takes 24 hours to dry, and it's a bit too viscous for my taste on a flange like the water pump with low torque, in other words it may not squeeze out evenly. If you decide use silicone, it works as long as it's rated for antifreeze (see the package or mfg website) -- But take extra care with a small and even amount on the side of the gasket without the sealer already on it, and wait 24 hours before adding coolant.