Time to do the radiator
#11
JK Jedi
Also, you should only need 2 gallons of full strength, then distilled water. Capacity of the system is ~6 gallons if I recall
#12
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by resharp001
Also, you should only need 2 gallons of full strength, then distilled water. Capacity of the system is ~6 gallons if I recall
#13
JK Super Freak
Just swapped my rad this last weekend. If you are wanting to change the fluid completely the whole system only holds 13.4 quarts (3.35 gallons) it won't all come out.
If you know your coolant is still good (I had my system flushed about a year ago, and just changed the lower hose, water pump, and thermostat about a month ago), then leave the upper and lower hoses till last. When you disconnect the lower hose pinch it up against the alternator, and bend the lower back against the AC piping, and you will lose less than a gallon of the old.
If you haven't had a flush recently, let it all run. Pull the thermostat housing to help drain it. When you go to refill it, leave the thermostat housing loose as you fill it, until fluid runs out. This will help prevent vapor lock. When you do start the Jeep again, run the heater on high.
If you know your coolant is still good (I had my system flushed about a year ago, and just changed the lower hose, water pump, and thermostat about a month ago), then leave the upper and lower hoses till last. When you disconnect the lower hose pinch it up against the alternator, and bend the lower back against the AC piping, and you will lose less than a gallon of the old.
If you haven't had a flush recently, let it all run. Pull the thermostat housing to help drain it. When you go to refill it, leave the thermostat housing loose as you fill it, until fluid runs out. This will help prevent vapor lock. When you do start the Jeep again, run the heater on high.
#14
JK Jedi
It sounded from the post #8 you bought this from RockAuto -
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...471660&jsn=258
The jugs will clearly state if it's pre-diluted though....like this -
https://www.morris4x4center.com/mopa...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Last edited by resharp001; 06-07-2018 at 05:09 AM.
#15
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Wow I'm so glad I posted about this. I had no idea Mopar sold both.
So is my process now 1 gallon of the Mopar HOAT coolant and then 1 gallon of Distilled water mixed in a bucked? That would be 50/50.
So is my process now 1 gallon of the Mopar HOAT coolant and then 1 gallon of Distilled water mixed in a bucked? That would be 50/50.
#16
Super Moderator
The unmixed HOAT is P/N:68048953AB, the pre-mixed HOAT is P/N:68051212AB. HOAT is what you want for your 3.8L
From my local dealership, I paid $16.77/gal of 68048953AB, Pre-mixed (68051212AB) was $10.75/gal So the mixing it yourself, is the cheaper route. Pre-mixed is the more convenient route.
Last edited by Rednroll; 06-07-2018 at 08:47 AM.
#17
JK Jedi
Are you going to flush the entire system, purging the old coolant, or are you just swapping radiators and filling back up?
If you’re just swapping radiators and filling back up, definitely add ~equal amounts of full strength coolant and distilled. I wouldn’t use a bucket to mix it as you might add contaminates. I would pour in half bottle of coolant, then half gallon of distilled, then pour the other half gallon of distilled in to the coolant bottle creating a full gallon of 50/50 mix to keep adding in.
If you are flushing the system to purge all the old coolant out of the block and heater core lines, what you end up with is distilled water in the heater core, heater core lines, and the block. (If you haven't flushed a system before, let us know. It's not hard, but takes a few cycles of draining, filling with distilled, cycle, repeat.) After installing new radiator, and considering you probably have 1 – 1.5 gallons of water existing in the system, add 1 – 1.5g of full strength coolant. You know (now) that the system holds little over 3 gallons total. Error on the side of more coolant than water in the mixture, but target 50/50 if you can, topping off with what you think is appropriate (full coolant, water, or mixture). Usually you will pour some coolant back down the upper rad hose until it stops going in prior to clamping that to the radiator.
#18
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I'm going to be replacing the radiator completely along with upper and lower hoses. I have a brand new AirLift to use for this also so that's why I was saying mix in a bucket.
#19
JK Jedi
Wasn't familiar with AirLift system. Watched a couple videos. Looks like pretty easy way to bleed the system, but you're still dumping most of that coolant mixture right on in I'd think, then just using the airlock to bleed.....unless I'm missing something, you're not using that to fill the entirety of the system. I bet that is handy if you're changing radiators all day long and have to send customers on their way vs. at home having to bleed/burp the system and top off once or twice.
#20
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Yea it definitely isn't necessary but there will be 3 friends doing radiators on Saturday so we split it 3 ways to make sure the system is air tight. Figured the dealer would most likely use a similar set up.