clutch help
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodlands,Tx
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
clutch help
Upgraded my clutch to Centerforce on my 2010 JKU... after getting it back it was hard to put in gear, especially 1st... Shop tells me it should be alright after its break-in period. After a few weeks it has gotten worse. Brought it back in and they replaced my slave cylinder after driving it for a day it feels even worse and my clutch pressure feels spongey. Does anyone know what i should do? Im already down $1300 and i feel like this shop doesnt know how to fix the problem. Thanks in advance
#2
JK Enthusiast
Upgraded my clutch to Centerforce on my 2010 JKU... after getting it back it was hard to put in gear, especially 1st... Shop tells me it should be alright after its break-in period. After a few weeks it has gotten worse. Brought it back in and they replaced my slave cylinder after driving it for a day it feels even worse and my clutch pressure feels spongey. Does anyone know what i should do? Im already down $1300 and i feel like this shop doesnt know how to fix the problem. Thanks in advance
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...ite-up-204276/
Here are the usual suspects for spongeyness:
1) Low or wrong type of fluid in clutch master cylinder
2) Air in clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or lines
3) Leakage from system, bad hose
4) Misalignment of clutch components
5) Worn out clutch and/or hydraulic components
I would investigate 1, 2, and 3 and suspect any combination of the three. I do NOT think you "needed" a slave cylinder, and I wouldn't let anyone tell you it's a master cylinder either.
For #3, visually check the hydraulic connecting lines for any sign of leaking or cracking.
For #4, also try the link https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...d-info-285330/ .
Assuming the shop included a new throw out bearing (TOB), it must be properly clipped onto the brace, AND the brace must be properly seated on its pivot point. The other end of the brace locates itself on the end of the slave cylinder actuator piston. The Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) refers to the pivot point being out of spec and needing to be shimmed with washers. The symptom was hard/difficult shifting resulting from the clutch not being able to disengage fully. I believe this was all resolved in early JK models and would not apply to a 2010.
Good Luck!
Last edited by HankFard; 04-24-2014 at 11:03 PM. Reason: rewording
#3
JK Jedi Master
The slave cylinder has a small-almost-but-not-quite-an-O-ring that seals between the hydraulic line and the slave cylinder. That SABNQOR is very easy to lose--when I was replacing my slave cylinder I dropped it and it bounced faster than greased lighning across the garage floor. Without a sample, I figured it was just a regular old O-ring. IT IS NOT! A regular O-ring will not seal. And the SABNQOR is NOT a separately sold item--to get a new one you must buy the entire hydraulic line. If the person who worked on your Jeep was not careful, he may have dropped it and replaced it--it's very easy to do if you're not aware of it. And he may have just stuck an O-ring in from shop stock, and sent you on your (not so merry) way.
That was an great deal of explanation just to get to this: Check for a hydraulic fluid leak at the slave cylinder.
That was an great deal of explanation just to get to this: Check for a hydraulic fluid leak at the slave cylinder.
#4
JK Enthusiast
Sabnqor
The slave cylinder has a small-almost-but-not-quite-an-O-ring that seals between the hydraulic line and the slave cylinder. That SABNQOR is very easy to lose--when I was replacing my slave cylinder I dropped it and it bounced faster than greased lighning across the garage floor. Without a sample, I figured it was just a regular old O-ring. IT IS NOT! A regular O-ring will not seal. And the SABNQOR is NOT a separately sold item--to get a new one you must buy the entire hydraulic line. If the person who worked on your Jeep was not careful, he may have dropped it and replaced it--it's very easy to do if you're not aware of it. And he may have just stuck an O-ring in from shop stock, and sent you on your (not so merry) way.
That was an great deal of explanation just to get to this: Check for a hydraulic fluid leak at the slave cylinder.
That was an great deal of explanation just to get to this: Check for a hydraulic fluid leak at the slave cylinder.
Mark,
THAT is excellent information, certainly something I am going to remember - SABNQOR (!)
It completely makes sense too. I would love pick your brain about it how it might separate from the line, exactly where it is located, what color it is, hard material or rubbery, etc? Is the hydraulic line a push-to-click fit, or does it thread in to place? I am techy about these things, and hopefully the OP will benefit too!
Thanks, Andrew (Hankfard)
#5
Former Vendor
Mark,
THAT is excellent information, certainly something I am going to remember - SABNQOR (!)
It completely makes sense too. I would love pick your brain about it how it might separate from the line, exactly where it is located, what color it is, hard material or rubbery, etc? Is the hydraulic line a push-to-click fit, or does it thread in to place? I am techy about these things, and hopefully the OP will benefit too!
Attachment 548379
Thanks, Andrew (Hankfard)
THAT is excellent information, certainly something I am going to remember - SABNQOR (!)
It completely makes sense too. I would love pick your brain about it how it might separate from the line, exactly where it is located, what color it is, hard material or rubbery, etc? Is the hydraulic line a push-to-click fit, or does it thread in to place? I am techy about these things, and hopefully the OP will benefit too!
Attachment 548379
Thanks, Andrew (Hankfard)
#6
Former Vendor
Upgraded my clutch to Centerforce on my 2010 JKU... after getting it back it was hard to put in gear, especially 1st... Shop tells me it should be alright after its break-in period. After a few weeks it has gotten worse. Brought it back in and they replaced my slave cylinder after driving it for a day it feels even worse and my clutch pressure feels spongey. Does anyone know what i should do? Im already down $1300 and i feel like this shop doesnt know how to fix the problem. Thanks in advance
Pump 6x
With Pedal Up
Open Slave
Press Pedal to floor
Close Slave
Repeat a few times until you get a solid stream.
#7
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodlands,Tx
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, this is the latest report on my horror story.. brought back in after a week with the same problem ( Hard to put in gear while in a complete stop). After telling me that it was the slave cylander causing this problem. The slave was replaced and had the same problem almost immediately, brought it back a couple days later and now they tell me its a transmission problem. I never had any issues with the Tranny to begin with.. i just wanted them to upgrade my clutch. Is there any legal way of asking for my money back? Or demand that they fix the problem? It seems like these CLOWNS dont know what they are doing.. Y'alls feedback would be greatly appreciated..Thanks in advance.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Enthusiast
Bottom line - is there any visible evidence of fluid leakage from where the hydraulic line goes into the slave cylinder? Has the fluid level gone down at all in the reservoir?
#9
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodlands,Tx
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No visible leaks and reservoir is still topped off. Could this be a Tranny issue? Once the Jeep is motion i have no problem shifting, it only gives problem on a complete stop.
#10
JK Enthusiast
I doubt that there is anything wrong with your transmission. It would seem that faulty installation of the throwout bearing or clutch assembly itself are more likely suspects.
That's only my opinion; maybe others have other ideas.
That's only my opinion; maybe others have other ideas.