The blue LEDs are the brightest, even with the high resistors that were installed when the switches were manufactured. There is a small aftermarket PWM dimmer switch made by Autometer that dims these LEDs very well. It is designed to mount under the dash.

 

Hey guys,

I read the whole thread, some great info and pics in here. I just got my panel and switches today and put the switches in the pillar pod. Will be wiring it up on Thursday / Friday.

I don't know about you guys but I had a b**ch of a time getting my pod into my Jeep! (2011).

 

Ok.... so decided to pull the wires for the dash lights to keep the blinding blue lights from making me cause an accident. Now they light up red when switched to ON. Good enough for me. Also swapped the rockers to my "normal" names. I'll probably order some red/red or amber/red switch bodies when they're back in stock at OTRATTW.









Also rewired my dash circuit and ground (jumped) to all my center console switches and added a new switch for my rear bumper lights (need to wire them up this weekend)

 

Wow that's nice. I didn't even know that was an option. I ended up shaving mine down and then painting the sides.

 

Is there any way for me to use the fuse panel to power the light for my switches? (Lower light - Pin/Tab #6)

 

Is there any way for me to use the fuse box to power my switch lighting (lower lights - pin/tab #6)

I'm pretty much electrically retarded so any help would be awesome.

I saw this pic and figured it would be possible to use an empty slot or something??





Thanks

 

Pull off the center plastic console(the one that surrounds the radio). Two power feeds of interest in there. One is the cigarette lighter which turns off with the key. The other is for the instrument lights which is dimmable. I think the dimmable instrument light wire is either gray or purple???? Anyways you should see the wire going to one of the instrument lights.

As far as the fuse box is concerned, you can tap into it for constant power somewhere but I can't remember where. Both of these power sources(not the dimmer light) are to run your switches only which will trigger a relay. The relay will then use power directly from the battery to power your lights etc.

Make sure you know how a relay works and also use the correct wire gauge with it.

Hope that helps.

Edit: use one of these to tap into a fuse box if you need to:

 

Thanks for the help! I think I got most of it.

I think I'm okay as far as wiring my actual LED light bar to the switch. (Using relay).

I just need to find out a way to have the actual lights on the switch (the backlight behind the writing) to come on when I turn the ignition to acc or run. Do I also need a relay to run those baby LEDs?

Should have payed more attention to detail in high school dammit.

Edit. I think the draw for the 4 LEDs on the switches are 20 mA each. So 80 mA total.

 

When you flip the switch to ON to activate the aux lights, the switch light should illuminate if you've hooked up the accessory, power, and ground correctly. Without the ground to the switch, the offroad lights will come on but the switch light won't.
If you want the lower switch light to illuminate when the ignition is on, you'll need to feed a ground wire and a hot wire to the other 2 posts behind the switch. Some people use the dimmer circuit behind the dash, but that only illuminates with the dash lights. You can tap into the passenger side cigarette lighter which is always hot, or run a tap-a-fuse from the fuse box for that circuit. You don't need a relay since you're only providing power to a LED light with very little draw.

 

Ok thanks that answered my question perfectly. Just didn't know if I needed to use a relay for the lower lighting of the switch.