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oil change 101

Old Nov 24, 2009 | 01:22 PM
  #51  
JK Super Freak
 
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: GRANDE PRAIRIE, AB
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Originally Posted by rinkishJK
i use mobil one advanced fuel economy 0w20. meets and exceeds manufacturs requirements for 5w20. its thinner at startup(first #is cold viscosity) and normal apon warmup(second # is hot viscosity). supposed to help fuel mpg. i have yet to see that. also run a fram tg3600 (normal is 3614). 3600 is longer to hold more oil. crazy aS it sounds i felt a difference with acceleration with the bigger filter. holds more oil. just my thoughts. btw op nice idea with trans magnet on the pan!
i agree with the first part but when i got to the part where you said a bigger filter made a difference in accel i almost................. oh i did fall over
p.s. i have a bridge for sale
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #52  
RA032726's Avatar
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Thumbs up First change for this Wrangler

Nice write up on the oil & filter change. Did the first change on the Wrangler today at 1150 miles. Went with Mobil 1 5W-20 and Fram Tough Guard TG3614 filter. Did the change with the oil hot. OEM fill looked good coming out, nothing unexpected in appearance. Did not do a filter prefill, personal choice on my part.

It can't be emphasized enough, you have to check the filter mount for the old gasket. The Mopar gasket stayed behind on mine.

Geez, that OEM Mopar filter was on tight. I was about to go get a screw driver to pound through the old filter can for more leverage when the filter wrench started to budge it. It did not budge before the can started to tear.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #53  
liv2ryd's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, CO
Default Mobil 1 filter knock

Originally Posted by berg

I use the Mopar filter for two reasons. I was getting a knock on start with the Mobil1 fliter I used. It went away with Mopar.
I had the exact same issue with a Mobil 1 filter, never had the "start knock" with any other brand. It has either no drainback valve or a very weak one. That was the first and last time for that brand of filter.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 04:19 PM
  #54  
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From: Jupiter, FL
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Originally Posted by ECHO
Great Write-Up!
I 2nd that. I changed mine this weekend and referenced this write-up. First time changing it on the JK- very, very easy to do.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #55  
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From: 29 Palms
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always save money and change your own oil
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #56  
LidLess07X's Avatar
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From: Pasadena Maryland
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I always change mine when the oil is HOT. I read somewhere that all the contaminants will be suspended in the oil and drain out with the oil. The explanation was that nothing would be left in the bottom of the pan. Any thoughts or comments on this?? I have been burning the sh!t out of myself for years by doing it this way.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #57  
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From: Calhan
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Nice write up
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #58  
TINMAN080's Avatar
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From: Virginia Woods
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Originally Posted by LidLess07X
I always change mine when the oil is HOT. I read somewhere that all the contaminants will be suspended in the oil and drain out with the oil. The explanation was that nothing would be left in the bottom of the pan. Any thoughts or comments on this?? I have been burning the sh!t out of myself for years by doing it this way.
The contaminates will stay suspended even in cold oil, the make-up of the lubricant is designed to do that. Watch the old oil in your drain pan- it never seperates or clears up. I also drain mine warm, it drains faster. However if you want your engine the cleanest it can be drain it cold- that way you are assured that all of the old oil has drained back into the pan completely overnite. All the old oil is in the pan, drain it completely and then replace with fresh oil, no mixing of old and new. My 2 cents worth....
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