RIver Crossing
#11
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: In the Goldfeilds
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Anyone have a intermittent no start issue after a water crossing? My Jeep will not start at times and I have read about issues related to the auto sway bar wiring. Anyone got any info.
My advise is if you can't walk it don't even think about driving it. You should be able to walk the river without the aid of a stick and without getting your junk wet. I have had my Jeep in water just as deep as the bottom of my headlamps and that was a little spooky. The Jeep gets really lite and you start to loose traction even in a slow current with a rocky buttom. If you get into water that deep and you hit mud and really soft sand you maybe in for a day.
On another note the only time I have had to use my winch was pulling two Range Rovers out of the river my JK crossed with ease. The Discoveries were mostly stock and I am running 37" however.
My advise is if you can't walk it don't even think about driving it. You should be able to walk the river without the aid of a stick and without getting your junk wet. I have had my Jeep in water just as deep as the bottom of my headlamps and that was a little spooky. The Jeep gets really lite and you start to loose traction even in a slow current with a rocky buttom. If you get into water that deep and you hit mud and really soft sand you maybe in for a day.
On another note the only time I have had to use my winch was pulling two Range Rovers out of the river my JK crossed with ease. The Discoveries were mostly stock and I am running 37" however.
#12
JK Freak
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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I don't think that a JK is good to go in deep water. A snorkle is not enough. There are too many electrical terminals without protection. The water goes easily into the axles, etc
Water is a very expensive hobby! When I had my first JK, after a week I wheeled to the Terrebonne's Trail, and I had to replace my alternator.
Water is a very expensive hobby! When I had my first JK, after a week I wheeled to the Terrebonne's Trail, and I had to replace my alternator.
If you plan on doing regular water crossings, it definitely is a good idea to take these extra precautionary steps to protect your jeep from water damage.
#15
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Orlando - FL
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Stock JK fording depth 30"
A few tips:
1.) Keep your passenger side on the high-side of the mud-hole. The air cleaner intake is over there. Use the bottom of your headlights as a referance to the air cleaner.
2.) Keep an eye on your flenders out the window, use them as a depth gauge to # 1 above.
3.) As others have mentioned, avoid engaging the clutch at all costs during a water crossing using a manual transmission. Gets expensive real fast.
4.) A cheap mod is to raise the axle, trans breather tubes to a higher point. Be aware that extending the rear axle breather up into the cargo area can result in axle lube inside your Jeep (read: stanky).
5.) Slow & steady in the water until you get hung up on that underwater log etc. - then give 'em hail. Your not stuck until you can't move forward OR back.
6.) The door-seals only seem to hold out water for about 3 minutes, and seal-up your firewall holes really good near the steering colomn.
7.) When your engine shuts-off during a water crossing, DO NOT RESTART IT! Instead just pull the spark plugs, dry them out, eject the water by a brief cranking with spark-plugs out. Dry out the air cleaner element. Put plugs back in and pray...
8.) The soft top rear window will not withstand the bow wave of another over-zealous Jeeper plunging in behind you. Styrofoam coolers will float within the cargo compartment... Toolboxes won't float so good.
Here is a link of my stock Rubi during the first 7 seconds. Followed by a Sahara with a snorkel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrRj0D4UQmg
If you pause the video, you can see the water line just under the left headlight and running down the drivers side.
1.) Keep your passenger side on the high-side of the mud-hole. The air cleaner intake is over there. Use the bottom of your headlights as a referance to the air cleaner.
2.) Keep an eye on your flenders out the window, use them as a depth gauge to # 1 above.
3.) As others have mentioned, avoid engaging the clutch at all costs during a water crossing using a manual transmission. Gets expensive real fast.
4.) A cheap mod is to raise the axle, trans breather tubes to a higher point. Be aware that extending the rear axle breather up into the cargo area can result in axle lube inside your Jeep (read: stanky).
5.) Slow & steady in the water until you get hung up on that underwater log etc. - then give 'em hail. Your not stuck until you can't move forward OR back.
6.) The door-seals only seem to hold out water for about 3 minutes, and seal-up your firewall holes really good near the steering colomn.
7.) When your engine shuts-off during a water crossing, DO NOT RESTART IT! Instead just pull the spark plugs, dry them out, eject the water by a brief cranking with spark-plugs out. Dry out the air cleaner element. Put plugs back in and pray...
8.) The soft top rear window will not withstand the bow wave of another over-zealous Jeeper plunging in behind you. Styrofoam coolers will float within the cargo compartment... Toolboxes won't float so good.
Here is a link of my stock Rubi during the first 7 seconds. Followed by a Sahara with a snorkel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrRj0D4UQmg
If you pause the video, you can see the water line just under the left headlight and running down the drivers side.
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Orlando - FL
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#20
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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If you're not shifting and you've stopped, then you've probably stalled.
In that case, shift without clutching (no reason not to) and then start the Jeep in gear, without touching the clutch. If the clutch plates never separate, they can't suck in mud and water
All of this assumes that you're in 4 low of course.