KevinMac's Semi-Budget Build...Project Deathstar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Lined
A few companies have recently brought "1 piece" inner fender liners onto the market. Having had a bunch of eBay bucks that were about to expire, I opted for the front kit from DV8. First impressions upon opening the box was, "oh shit, I hope all the fasteners are here". There was a big hole in the side of the box and the nuts and screws were just laying loose in the box. 
Luckily, they were all accounted for.
Installation required the removal of 4 inner fender bolts, all 10mm in size...piece of cake. I then prepared to test fit the fender liner assembly. I say assembly as it is actually 2 pieces that bolt together prior to installation. The assembly went together just fine, no issues at all. Eyeballing the fit of the 4 bolt holes on the liners to the holes on the Jeep, everything appeared to line up pretty well.
Feeling pretty confident, I then tried starting the bolts...rut roe!
So, there was definitely some interference going on. I still have stock fenders. They are gusseted in the front for reinforcement and have contours in 3 other places that prevented the bolts from being started. I unfortunately had to take my pneumatic cutoff wheel to all 4 of these areas and remove a lot of material (plastic) before these new liners would fit flush. I wasn't thrilled with this as it wasn't called out in the sales material or instructions. 
So, final impression. They now fit just, "ok". There is still some fit issues along the bottom edge and I suspect I will be back in there clearancing material to eliminate rattles. On the up side, they do look good! Well, they do now anyway. They came bare aluminum and had a big logo that was water jet cut into the center. They don't pay me to advertise, so I cut the logo out with a jigsaw. I then sprayed them with bedliner, except for the vent area, I left that bare for contrast.
Here are a few shots:
Oh yeah, if you look closely at the 2nd photo, you will see the connector for a block heater. I had picked that up last Fall but never got around to tossing it in. It was way easy to install with the liner still out so I went ahead and did that too. I used the OEM heater, all Mopar parts. For install notes, I will reference you to the link below, the guy did an AMAZING job detailing the parts list and install procedure, major kudos!!
How To Install Engine Block Heater on 3.6L
- Costs:
* DV8 Inner Fender Liners - $279
* Mopar Block Heater - $110
Luckily, they were all accounted for.Installation required the removal of 4 inner fender bolts, all 10mm in size...piece of cake. I then prepared to test fit the fender liner assembly. I say assembly as it is actually 2 pieces that bolt together prior to installation. The assembly went together just fine, no issues at all. Eyeballing the fit of the 4 bolt holes on the liners to the holes on the Jeep, everything appeared to line up pretty well.
Feeling pretty confident, I then tried starting the bolts...rut roe!
So, there was definitely some interference going on. I still have stock fenders. They are gusseted in the front for reinforcement and have contours in 3 other places that prevented the bolts from being started. I unfortunately had to take my pneumatic cutoff wheel to all 4 of these areas and remove a lot of material (plastic) before these new liners would fit flush. I wasn't thrilled with this as it wasn't called out in the sales material or instructions. So, final impression. They now fit just, "ok". There is still some fit issues along the bottom edge and I suspect I will be back in there clearancing material to eliminate rattles. On the up side, they do look good! Well, they do now anyway. They came bare aluminum and had a big logo that was water jet cut into the center. They don't pay me to advertise, so I cut the logo out with a jigsaw. I then sprayed them with bedliner, except for the vent area, I left that bare for contrast.
Here are a few shots:
Oh yeah, if you look closely at the 2nd photo, you will see the connector for a block heater. I had picked that up last Fall but never got around to tossing it in. It was way easy to install with the liner still out so I went ahead and did that too. I used the OEM heater, all Mopar parts. For install notes, I will reference you to the link below, the guy did an AMAZING job detailing the parts list and install procedure, major kudos!!
How To Install Engine Block Heater on 3.6L
- Costs:
* DV8 Inner Fender Liners - $279
* Mopar Block Heater - $110
Last edited by KevinMac; Jun 17, 2015 at 05:11 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Quack quack!
Update on the inner fender liners. As suspected, they rattle like a jar full of cashews, even over the smallest of bumps or potholes. So, I started by removing the passenger side completely and spent some time diagnosing the rattles on the driver side liner. I found 3 places where it was touching the frame behind it. I used some flock tape on those areas and the rattle has been eliminated. I will now do the same with the passenger side, in addition to some trimming along the bottom edge of it with some shears.
Now then, moving on! I've made the decision that I want a snorkel. I don't need one until our freeways flood again like they did last summer but I'm planning to order one in the coming months anyway. In preparation, I started by sealing up the airbox. There are about 5 holes in the bottom of the 3.6L airbox that I just closed up with RTV Black. However, in order to still allow water to drain, I installed a duckbill drain. This is basically a 1 way valve that is commonly found on Jet-Ski's to drain the hulls while under power. 
I can't take credit for the idea though, I found it in this thread here:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...-drain-249620/
Install was easy, drill 3 holes and screw in. It includes an o-ring to keep it water tight. I also goo'd a bit of RTV Black over the screws too.
Costs:
* Duckbill Drain - $29
So, I started by removing the passenger side completely and spent some time diagnosing the rattles on the driver side liner. I found 3 places where it was touching the frame behind it. I used some flock tape on those areas and the rattle has been eliminated. I will now do the same with the passenger side, in addition to some trimming along the bottom edge of it with some shears. Now then, moving on! I've made the decision that I want a snorkel. I don't need one until our freeways flood again like they did last summer but I'm planning to order one in the coming months anyway.
In preparation, I started by sealing up the airbox. There are about 5 holes in the bottom of the 3.6L airbox that I just closed up with RTV Black. However, in order to still allow water to drain, I installed a duckbill drain. This is basically a 1 way valve that is commonly found on Jet-Ski's to drain the hulls while under power. I can't take credit for the idea though, I found it in this thread here:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...-drain-249620/
Install was easy, drill 3 holes and screw in. It includes an o-ring to keep it water tight. I also goo'd a bit of RTV Black over the screws too.
Costs:
* Duckbill Drain - $29
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Let there be Light! Part 1
I spent a bit of time Sunday starting the installation of my new rock lights. As usual, I searched around reference wise and found a great thread with ideas and pitfalls to avoid. That can be found here:
Cheap Easy LED Rock Lights
I choose to order my LED's from Oznium as others in the thread had good experience with them. I ordered up (12) total, (1) front and rear of each wheel, (1) under the radiator, (1) under the trailer hitch and (1) under each front door. I went with their "Premium Rectangle LED module" which houses (3) cool white LED's.
The LED module seem ok except for the 2 sided tape they come with, it isn't very water resistant.
The modules do have (2) small holes which you can use to screw through but I didn't care to drill that many tiny holes into the Jeep. Instead, I opted for automotive grade 2-sided tape with a Gorilla glue chaser, just in case. 
Gorilla glue really is pretty good stuff!
Here is a shot of a module just in front of my rear tire:
Under the trailer hitch:
The module in front of the rear tire illuminated:
Shot from the rear showing (6) of (12) lights installed and illuminated:
It took several hours to get this much done as all connections were soldered and sealed with marine grade shrink tubing. I will start the install of the remaining (6) lights later this week.
Speaking of lights, I also put a couple of 18w LED worklights (cube shaped, flood style) on order this weekend. I plan to mount and wire those to the Gobi this week to use to light up the campsite later this week when we head back up to Northern Michigan for the holiday weekend.
I will do a quick write up on those in the not too distant future!
- Costs:
* (12) Oznium LED Modules - $29.88
As usual, I searched around reference wise and found a great thread with ideas and pitfalls to avoid. That can be found here:Cheap Easy LED Rock Lights
I choose to order my LED's from Oznium as others in the thread had good experience with them. I ordered up (12) total, (1) front and rear of each wheel, (1) under the radiator, (1) under the trailer hitch and (1) under each front door. I went with their "Premium Rectangle LED module" which houses (3) cool white LED's.
The LED module seem ok except for the 2 sided tape they come with, it isn't very water resistant.
The modules do have (2) small holes which you can use to screw through but I didn't care to drill that many tiny holes into the Jeep. Instead, I opted for automotive grade 2-sided tape with a Gorilla glue chaser, just in case. Gorilla glue really is pretty good stuff!Here is a shot of a module just in front of my rear tire:
Under the trailer hitch:
The module in front of the rear tire illuminated:
Shot from the rear showing (6) of (12) lights installed and illuminated:
It took several hours to get this much done as all connections were soldered and sealed with marine grade shrink tubing. I will start the install of the remaining (6) lights later this week.
Speaking of lights, I also put a couple of 18w LED worklights (cube shaped, flood style) on order this weekend. I plan to mount and wire those to the Gobi this week to use to light up the campsite later this week when we head back up to Northern Michigan for the holiday weekend.
I will do a quick write up on those in the not too distant future!- Costs:
* (12) Oznium LED Modules - $29.88
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
My new flood lights should be here tomorrow so I spent a bit of time last evening running the wiring for them. I will be installing these at the rear of the Gobi rack as there are mounting pads and holes already in place. I wanted to hide as much of the wiring as possible so I snaked all the wire through the Gobi tubing. It wasn't super difficult, it just took some time.
There are (3) rubber and (1) plastic plugs that you need to remove to do so. The plastic plug is at the base of the windshield post and pops off using a screwdriver. Once off, I just drilled a small hole in the middle to run the wire through. I then turned my attention to the rubber plugs. There is (1) at the top of the windshield post and an adjacent one on the main rack. You can see both of them in this photo:
The final one is at the rear of the rack. In the next photo you can see it just left of my Arb awning mounting bracket:
Next up is the running of the wire through the plastic plug and up the windshield post:
Out of the windshield post and getting ready to move over to the main Gobi tube. Note, where the wire transitions from the windshield post to the main Gobi tube, I will be adding a waterproof weatherpak connector to allow me to still tilt the rack backwards for hardtop removal. The connector is on order.
Finally, the bottom plug all buttoned up. Since my flood lights will pull 1.5a each I was able to go with just 18ga wiring. I am using stranded, jacketed 18/2 security wire from Home Depot. The jacket was gray in color though so anywhere I could see the wire, I covered it with black shrink tubing to make it a bit less obvious. Once I get my snorkel, this won't stand out nearly as bad.
From there, it was just a matter of snaking it down the length of the main tube and out the hole at the rear. I've got it bundled there awaiting the delivery of the new lights...just in time for camping!
There are (3) rubber and (1) plastic plugs that you need to remove to do so. The plastic plug is at the base of the windshield post and pops off using a screwdriver. Once off, I just drilled a small hole in the middle to run the wire through. I then turned my attention to the rubber plugs. There is (1) at the top of the windshield post and an adjacent one on the main rack. You can see both of them in this photo:
The final one is at the rear of the rack. In the next photo you can see it just left of my Arb awning mounting bracket:
Next up is the running of the wire through the plastic plug and up the windshield post:
Out of the windshield post and getting ready to move over to the main Gobi tube. Note, where the wire transitions from the windshield post to the main Gobi tube, I will be adding a waterproof weatherpak connector to allow me to still tilt the rack backwards for hardtop removal. The connector is on order.
Finally, the bottom plug all buttoned up. Since my flood lights will pull 1.5a each I was able to go with just 18ga wiring. I am using stranded, jacketed 18/2 security wire from Home Depot. The jacket was gray in color though so anywhere I could see the wire, I covered it with black shrink tubing to make it a bit less obvious. Once I get my snorkel, this won't stand out nearly as bad.
From there, it was just a matter of snaking it down the length of the main tube and out the hole at the rear. I've got it bundled there awaiting the delivery of the new lights...just in time for camping!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Zombies beware...I can see you!
Got the new lights today! Simple, inexpensive, yet effective. Here's a quick shot of them pre-install:
Post install:
So for now, I installed them offset. (1) light pointing out over the awning and the other rearward as these are usually the (2) areas we are most walking through when we camp. I'm sure some adjustments will be made after this weekends festivities.
Post install, illuminated:
Illuminated at night (yes, the glare sucks...sorry!)
Illuminating my driveway. For 18w per light, damn impressive! (Anyone looking for inner/outer fenders? I haven't found a better place to store them
)
That's all for now folks, I'm out! Have a safe yet festive 4th of July weekend!
When we return, I will start wiring up the remainder of the rock lights. After that, the 2nd battery and smart isolator setup. Why? Because, there is nothing I enjoy more than soldering <insert sarcasm here> 
- Costs:
* 18w LED Cube Lights (Amazon): $27/pair
Here's a quick shot of them pre-install:
Post install:
So for now, I installed them offset. (1) light pointing out over the awning and the other rearward as these are usually the (2) areas we are most walking through when we camp. I'm sure some adjustments will be made after this weekends festivities.
Post install, illuminated:
Illuminated at night (yes, the glare sucks...sorry!)
Illuminating my driveway. For 18w per light, damn impressive! (Anyone looking for inner/outer fenders? I haven't found a better place to store them
)
That's all for now folks, I'm out! Have a safe yet festive 4th of July weekend!
When we return, I will start wiring up the remainder of the rock lights. After that, the 2nd battery and smart isolator setup. Why? Because, there is nothing I enjoy more than soldering <insert sarcasm here> - Costs:
* 18w LED Cube Lights (Amazon): $27/pair
Last edited by KevinMac; Jul 1, 2015 at 06:27 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Let there be Light! Part 2!
I spent several hours this morning wiring and mounting the remainder of the rock lights. On the way home from dinner this evening, we found a semi-dark parking lot to shoot a few photos. Overall, for what I have into it, I dig it. Low cost, yet effective...the best of both worlds!
I'm glad to have this wiring project behind me. Of course, there are about 3 more on the list in quick succession so I will post more tomorrow on the next endeavor!
I'm glad to have this wiring project behind me. Of course, there are about 3 more on the list in quick succession so I will post more tomorrow on the next endeavor!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Next up!
Next up on the mod list, prepping the rig for dual batteries. Last summer I had put in a dual battery box but had only been running 1 battery all this time. Over the last couple of weeks I collected the remainder of the parts I need to wire up an accessory battery, with the exception of the battery itself. I'm still torn on that one. I have a lot of good history with yellow tops. However, a lot of overlanders seem to favor the Diehard Platinums, so I still have a choice to make there. 
I know I wanted an isolated battery and a smart solenoid to control it. After quite a bit of reading, I settled on the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Isolator. It is rated to 200 amps and will do exactly what I need it to. This unit will sense if 1 battery is low and will trigger an 'alarm'. With the use of a momentary switch, it will then connect to the other battery. Another nice feature is that if the primary battery is too low to start the engine, it can draw upon the juice in the accessory battery. Granted, I am simplifying things here but it's a pretty versatile part!
The solenoid is shown in the photo above. Also shown are the (2) fuses I will use and the Bussman fuse holders. Finally, for an 'alarm', I am just using an LED that I will mount somewhere on the dash or A-pillar. The other thing I needed to change was one of my OTRATTW switches. I had planned ahead and gotten a "Aux Battery" rocker but I just assumed I needed an on/off switch, not momentary.
No big deal, except for my OCD! 
As you can see, in the off position all my rockers are to the left side. Well, the momentary is off in the right position.
It's not so obviously during the day but at night when the lights are on, it really sticks out. It absolutely drives me bat-shit crazy but I'm dealing.
As for the switch specifics and wiring diagram, that is below:
Oh yeah, as for some casual reading, I can recommend (2) threads. The first is from here at JK-Forum and where I originally learned about the Cole Hersee part. The 2nd is from Expedition Portal, a great site for Overlander's that is not vehicle specific. The OP from that thread had way too much time on his hands but made some wonderful wiring diagrams!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...issues-210279/
How to make a cheap isolated dual battery setup
Costs:
Cole Hersee Solenoid - $107
OTRATTW switch - $12
Bussman fuses and holders - $20
Status LED - $6
Last summer I had put in a dual battery box but had only been running 1 battery all this time. Over the last couple of weeks I collected the remainder of the parts I need to wire up an accessory battery, with the exception of the battery itself. I'm still torn on that one. I have a lot of good history with yellow tops. However, a lot of overlanders seem to favor the Diehard Platinums, so I still have a choice to make there. I know I wanted an isolated battery and a smart solenoid to control it. After quite a bit of reading, I settled on the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Isolator. It is rated to 200 amps and will do exactly what I need it to. This unit will sense if 1 battery is low and will trigger an 'alarm'. With the use of a momentary switch, it will then connect to the other battery. Another nice feature is that if the primary battery is too low to start the engine, it can draw upon the juice in the accessory battery. Granted, I am simplifying things here but it's a pretty versatile part!
The solenoid is shown in the photo above. Also shown are the (2) fuses I will use and the Bussman fuse holders. Finally, for an 'alarm', I am just using an LED that I will mount somewhere on the dash or A-pillar. The other thing I needed to change was one of my OTRATTW switches. I had planned ahead and gotten a "Aux Battery" rocker but I just assumed I needed an on/off switch, not momentary.
No big deal, except for my OCD! As you can see, in the off position all my rockers are to the left side. Well, the momentary is off in the right position.
It's not so obviously during the day but at night when the lights are on, it really sticks out. It absolutely drives me bat-shit crazy but I'm dealing.
As for the switch specifics and wiring diagram, that is below:
Oh yeah, as for some casual reading, I can recommend (2) threads. The first is from here at JK-Forum and where I originally learned about the Cole Hersee part. The 2nd is from Expedition Portal, a great site for Overlander's that is not vehicle specific. The OP from that thread had way too much time on his hands but made some wonderful wiring diagrams!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...issues-210279/
How to make a cheap isolated dual battery setup
Costs:
Cole Hersee Solenoid - $107
OTRATTW switch - $12
Bussman fuses and holders - $20
Status LED - $6
Last edited by KevinMac; Jul 13, 2015 at 04:12 PM.
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
Hi Kevin,
just thought I'd share that I accomplished the ATC mod tonight. After gathering up all the components (and thank you for the help there too) I decided today was the day. Your instructions are spot on and thorough. Makes the project super easy. And it worked perfectly! And for those concerned about splicing into the factory wiring, It's not bad. Im far from an electronics tech, and my soldering iron is pretty basic stuff! And I had no trouble. Thanks again!
just thought I'd share that I accomplished the ATC mod tonight. After gathering up all the components (and thank you for the help there too) I decided today was the day. Your instructions are spot on and thorough. Makes the project super easy. And it worked perfectly! And for those concerned about splicing into the factory wiring, It's not bad. Im far from an electronics tech, and my soldering iron is pretty basic stuff! And I had no trouble. Thanks again!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Hi Kevin,
just thought I'd share that I accomplished the ATC mod tonight. After gathering up all the components (and thank you for the help there too) I decided today was the day. Your instructions are spot on and thorough. Makes the project super easy. And it worked perfectly! And for those concerned about splicing into the factory wiring, It's not bad. Im far from an electronics tech, and my soldering iron is pretty basic stuff! And I had no trouble. Thanks again!
just thought I'd share that I accomplished the ATC mod tonight. After gathering up all the components (and thank you for the help there too) I decided today was the day. Your instructions are spot on and thorough. Makes the project super easy. And it worked perfectly! And for those concerned about splicing into the factory wiring, It's not bad. Im far from an electronics tech, and my soldering iron is pretty basic stuff! And I had no trouble. Thanks again!