Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

Hi Kevin!

One last question for now, sorry but like I had said, I have been watching this build for a bit and just recently joined...so a few questions of things I want to do myself. For your post, you said it was basically plug and play. Was it simply just unplugging the old cluster and plugging in the new cluster (minus the mileage)? Or was there any cutting/splicing/adding of sensors/wires/etc.? Also, I have a 2011 Sport S, would I be able to upgrade to a newer model EVIC such as the 2014 JKRX or the 2013 JKR10th EVIC? I know the 2011's still have the 3.8L but the 2012+ swapped to the 3.6L Pentastar. Does it matter what engine you have? Or sense the brains of the unit are contained within the cluster itself, does the engine not matter, it will just work as long as it fits?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Invest2m4

One issue is that the RPM gauge will be different. Some of the data fed into the cluster goes via the ECU. That obviously changed in 2012. My guess would be that some stuff would work, some wouldn't and some would not be accurate.

Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

Really? It's not just reporting a number that the cluster would understand? Is there programming that could b done? Or would a flash from the dealer fix this at all? What else do u think may not work or be not accurate?

Originally Posted by Invest2m4

Honestly, I think the only way to find out is to try it. I asked my friend who is an engineer on the wrangler and he wasn't optimistic, but admitted he didn't know for sure. What I do know is that the computer can't be reprogrammed regarding that stuff. Either it works or it doesn't. Give it a try!

Originally Posted by KevinMac

I'm honestly not sure. Was ATC an option on the 2011's? If it was then I would image it would work. For some reason I thought I the earlier JK's was more manual and still used cables to control things.

Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

I did some more research and found that on the Saharas, Rubicons, and the 70th Anniversary models in 2011 it was an option. However in the Sport model it was not an option. Would it still be able to be added in do you think? Or would a flash by the dealer be required as well? Thanks!

Originally Posted by KevinMac

The dealer can't flash your Sport into a Rubicon or Sahara. However, if it were an option in 2011 then I'd say there is a decent chance that it would work on your Sport. The cluster I put into my Sport was from a Sahara/Rubi. Give it a shot!

Originally Posted by KevinMac

Background:
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport S
Manual Climate Control
No Auto Headlights
With Rear Defrost
With Air Conditioning

==================================================

Parts List:
HVAC Control Unit (1 needed) - P55111170AD
Sun Sensor (1 needed) - 55111275AA
Cabin Temperature Sensor (1 needed) - 55111178AC
4 way Cabin Temperature/Sun Sensor Connector (2 needed) – 68080566AA
16 way HVAC Control Unit Connector (1 needed) – not available from Mopar, I purchased it used on eBay

5ft 22/4 Shielded Stranded Wire, Shrink Tubing, Solder – Home Depot

==================================================

Tools and skills needed:
Steady hand and patience!
Ability to solder!!!
Trim removal tool
Wire strippers
Assorted hand tools

==================================================

Notes on the HVAC Control Unit Connector:
- The entire connector is not actually required, what is needed is (3) terminal leads from the connector to insert into your existing connector. These will be inserted into cavities 9,10 and 16.

==================================================

Notes on the Cabin Temperature/Sun Sensor Connector:
- (1) full connector with the four terminal leads is required to wire up the Cabin Temperature Sensor itself.
- Only (2) terminal leads from the other connector I reference as required in the parts list are required. However, you can not only purchase the terminal leads so you need the whole connector. I happened to have access to leads that size so I only purchased (1) connector for my installation.

==================================================

Wiring – Sun Sensor Connector

Sensor End Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 VT/LB SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---MISSING
3 G139 22 VT/OR SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---MISSING
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

1. Regardless of model, all Wranglers will have a partial harness with (2) of the (4) required wires needed for this sensor (see above for notes on the needed terminal leads).
2. Cut off about a 2’ piece of the 22/4 stranded wire.
3. Strip the shielding off 1 end to reveal the (4) conductors.
4. Cut (2) of the (4) conductors flush to the shielding as you only need (2) of the conductors for this sensor. I kept green and red and disposed of black and white.
5. Solder the terminal leads for the sun sensor connector to the green and red wires.
6. Shrink tube to protect.

As I mentioned, in my case, I had terminal leads available for this particular connector. My pin out on the Sun Sensor end was then as such:

My Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 GREEN SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---Will go to cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
3 G139 22 RED SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---Will go to cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

HVAC Control Unit End:
1. The (2) conductors in this harness will require terminal leads at the HVAC Control Unit end that will plug into the HVAC Control Unit Connector. These were obtained from a used connector I purchased on eBay.
2. Strip the shielding off the end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Cut (2) of the (4) conductors flush to the shielding as you only need (2) of the conductors for this sensor. I kept green and red and disposed of black and white.
4. Solder the terminal leads for the HVAC Control Unit connector to the green and red wires
5. Shrink tube to protect

In my case, I was using used terminal leads from a non-Jeep vehicle so the color of the wires doesn’t necessarily match the Factory Wrangler Pin out for wire color. Not a big deal. What I ended up with is as follows:

My Final Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 GREEN to lb/lg @ HVAC end SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---Will go to cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
3 G139 22 RED to lb/lv @ HVAC end SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---Will go to cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

==================================================

Wiring – Cabin Temperature Sensor Connector

Sensor End Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 C36 22 LB/BR BLEND DOOR FEEDBACK SIGNAL
2 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND
3 F921 22 PK/YL FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT
4 Z903 22 BK GROUND

1. Cut off about a 2’ piece of the 22/4 stranded wire.
2. Strip the shielding off 1 end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Strip and tin all (4) conductors
4. Strip and tin all (4) terminal leads that came with your new connector
5. Solder the terminal leads to the conductors
6. Shrink tube to protect.

I assigned the follow colors to the following pins:

My Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 C36 22 GREEN BLEND DOOR FEEDBACK SIGNAL
2 C121 22 WHITE SENSOR GROUND
3 F921 22 RED FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT
4 Z903 22 BLACK GROUND

HVAC Control Unit End:
1. The (4) conductors in this harness will require (1) terminal lead at the HVAC Control Unit end that will plug into the HVAC Control Unit Connector. This was obtained from the used connector I purchased on eBay.
2. Strip the shielding off the end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Solder a terminal lead for the HVAC Control Unit connector to the green wire or whatever you designated for Pin 1-Blend Door Feedback Signal
4. Shrink tube to protect

==================================================

Preparation – HVAC Control Unit Connector

Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 c56 18 db/lb blower control
2 a417 20 rd fused b(+) (i.o.d.)
3 f921 20 pk/yl fused run relay output
4 z916 22 bk ground
5 d264 22 wt/or can interior bus (125k) (-)
6 d265 22 wt/gy can interior bus (125k) (+)
7 c121 22 db/dg sensor ground
8 c21 22 db/lg evaporator temperature sensor signal
9 g39 22 vt/lb sun sensor 1 signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 2 of the Sun Sensor Harness
10 g139 22 vt/or sun sensor 2 signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 3 of the Sun Sensor Harness
11 c32 22 db/tn recirculation door driver (a)
12 c35 22 lb/or mode door driver
13 c61 22 db/lg driver blend door driver
14 c34 22 db/lb common door driver
15 l24 22 wt/vt auto headlamps signal
16 c36 22 lb/br blend door feedback signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 1 of the Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness

1. Remove white retaining clip from the face of the connector.

==================================================

Final Assembly - Wiring

WARNING: Ok, so this is where the steady hand and patience comes into play. You are working in tight quarters with small diameter wires and a hot soldering iron. Be careful not to burn yourself or your Jeep’s interior. Also, be careful handling the 22ga wires you will be attaching this all to as they are relatively fragile.

1. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 3-fused run relay output wire, it is Pink/Yellow. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
2. Wrap the wire from Pin 3- FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
3. Solder the new splice you have created.
4. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
5. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 7- sensor ground wire, it is Dark Blue/Dark Green. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
6. Wrap the wire from Pin 2- SENSOR GROUND of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
7. Solder the new splice you have created.
8. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
9. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 4-GROUND wire, it is black. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
10. Wrap the wire from Pin 4- GROUND of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
11. Solder the new splice you have created.
12. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
13. Exhale, that was the hard part.
14. Plug the remaining terminal lead (from Pin 1) from the Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness into cavity 16 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
15. Plug the terminal lead from Pin 2-Sun Sensor 1 into cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
16. Plug the terminal lead from Pin 3-Sun Sensor 1 into cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
17. Plug the white retaining clip back into the connector to retain the pins.
18. All wiring connections are now complete.

==================================================

Final Assembly and Test

1. If you haven’t already, plug the Sun Sensor Harness into the Sun Sensor.
2. If you haven’t already, plug the Cabin Temperature Harness into the Cabin Temperature Sensor.
3. Plug the HVAC Control Unit into the HVAC Control Unit connector.
4. Moment of truth…”Key on”.
5. The LED on the HVAC Control Unit will blink for about 30 seconds, there will be no function of unit during this period. Once the LED stops blinking, the unit is ready to function.
6. Set both knobs to “Auto” and start the engine.
7. Allow the engine to come up to temperature.
8. Set the temperature to 70F or so and watch/listen/feel the unit adjust the speed of the blower to maintain the temperature.
9. I installed mine in winter, an easy check is to push the “AC” button. The LED should blink 3 times. Per the owners manual, 3 blinks is the HVAC Control Unit telling you that AC is not required to maintain the requested temperature.
10. Another quick check is to verify function of the Cabin Temperature Sensor. This can be done visually as there is a small impeller spinning on a shaft that you can see. It is basically sucking in cabin air to measure the temperature of it. The impeller should be spinning. (Photo 1 is "Key Off", impeller not spinning. Photo 2 is "Engine On", impeller spinning.)
11. Aside from that, play with the temperatures. Moving mine up to 80F, the ATC turned up the blower speed to move more warm air into the cabin. Immediately turning it down into the 60F range, it dropped the speed accordingly.

==================================================

That’s it! I hope this helps, relax and enjoy your new option!

Originally Posted by Invest2m4

^^^And do you ever plan to wheel this rig?!?! Come'on man, what kind of malls are you parking at that you need upgraded axles and transfer case?!