The microphone for my new RHR showed up today. It is a simple plug and play unit from Mopar. Like the USB cable, there are a few versions and part numbers floating around out there. In my case, I went with part number 82211743AB and it works just fine.



- Cost:
* Mopar uConnect Microphone - $37

 

How in the world are you figuring out what parts you need? I have a 2014 Sport and would love to add ATC and auto headlights.

 

I use the "Search" function on this and the other JK sites...a lot!!! Seriously though, it's true. In the case of the ATC, those 3 guys I listed did a lot of the homework. I took what they had learned and cross referenced parts from some of the aftermarket mopar part sites. The hardest part is the electrical side of it. For that, I used some common sense on how things work and the Mopar Electrical Connector site to kind of figure out the circuits. When it comes to Canbus and Linbus questions I'm at a bit of an advantage. I live in Detroit, my g/f used to write code for Chrysler powertrain so I can ask her how things work...or possibly why they don't!

Like I said, I'm pretty confident I will get the ATC to work. The auto headlights, will take a bit more work. I alerady installed the new stalk (write up coming soon) but it doesn't work quite as intended. The loose end I need to tie up there is whether I need a reflash or not...I'm pretty sure I do.

 

Great write up. I plan on blacking out my jeep as well. Slow and steady as the wife allows lol!

 

Wow thats a lot of impressive work! Nice build

 

Well I've done a good portion of these Mods/upgrades.

But I must say, you've done an awesome job of putting together all the links and pics.
Clearly you've done your research and it shows.

I'll be following this thread. Thanks for all your hard work !!!

 

Thanks a lot folks, much appreciated!!

I'm just back from vacation and have about 3 or 4 projects ongoing that I need to wrap up before I go starting new things. My priorities are to finish up the ATC and radio installations. On the ATC side, all harnesses are made and all the sensors are installed. Next is the hard part, tying it all together at the HVAC control unit. This includes 3 wires that need spliced/soldered into the main harness. On the radio side, I need to finish running the microphone behind the trim up to its' final resting spot on the A-Pillar. I then also need to run the USB cable to the arm rest console like it came OEM from the factory. This will require seat and console removal.

During/After that, I have heated seats and remote-start to install. More on these in future updates!

One item I tossed in today on my 1st day back from vacation (we went to Belize, Honduras, Grand Cayman and Cozumel ) was my new Tuffy Conceal Carry underseat storage. It went in easy and took about 15 minutes. Remove the (2) front 18mm seat bolts and the (2) T30 wire harness bracket screws (under the seat) and it slid right it! It looks good and provides plenty of secure storage.

I also put a last molle pouch on the tailgate holder. That thing is maxed out now but provides a ton of storage area for recovery gear, IFAK, tools, etc.

Before I head off to watch the Super Bowl, here are a few quick pictures!







- Costs:
* Tuffy Conceal Carry Box - $80
* Molle Pouch - $16

 

After much homework and lots of combing the internet for parts, I am happy to report that I now have a fully functional ATC system!!!

I successfully made the last connections to the main HVAC connector this evening, set it to "Auto", crossed my fingers and let her rip. It is about 15F outside and I initially set the temperature to 72F. The heat kicked on high and then gradually backed off the blower speed as it approached the target temp. Letting it idle in my driveway for a few minutes, it would then increase blower speed as required to keep the temp at 72F. To confirm function, I turned it up to 80F and the blower kicked into high. Backing the temp down to 64F, it reduced the speed to low. Finally, I pushed the AC button and as it should (per the owners manual), the AC light blinked 3 times noting that the AC wasn't required to maintain the requested temperature.

I'm very happy with the final result and am glad it worked out. To clarify things for everyone, I will make a new post summarizing everything as my info is a bit scattered over several posts. That way, if anyone else wants to do this, they have a comprehensive guide. I will likely get to that in the next day or so!

Until then, here are 2 pictures of the "In Cabin Temperature Sensor" functioning. If you look closely at the first picture, there is what looks like an impeller on the shaft. In the 2nd photo, you can see that impeller spinning, sampling the cabin air temperature...pretty cool, huh?

 

Great ingenuity man . Can't wait for the final write up!!!

 

Background:
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport S
Manual Climate Control
No Auto Headlights
With Rear Defrost
With Air Conditioning

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Parts List:
HVAC Control Unit (1 needed) - P55111170AD
Sun Sensor (1 needed) - 55111275AA
Cabin Temperature Sensor (1 needed) - 55111178AC
4 way Cabin Temperature/Sun Sensor Connector (2 needed) – 68080566AA
16 way HVAC Control Unit Connector (1 needed) – not available from Mopar, I purchased it used on eBay

5ft 22/4 Shielded Stranded Wire, Shrink Tubing, Solder – Home Depot

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Tools and skills needed:
Steady hand and patience!
Ability to solder!!!
Trim removal tool
Wire strippers
Assorted hand tools

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Notes on the HVAC Control Unit Connector:
- The entire connector is not actually required, what is needed is (3) terminal leads from the connector to insert into your existing connector. These will be inserted into cavities 9,10 and 16.

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Notes on the Cabin Temperature/Sun Sensor Connector:
- (1) full connector with the four terminal leads is required to wire up the Cabin Temperature Sensor itself.
- Only (2) terminal leads from the other connector I reference as required in the parts list are required. However, you can not only purchase the terminal leads so you need the whole connector. I happened to have access to leads that size so I only purchased (1) connector for my installation.

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Wiring – Sun Sensor Connector

Sensor End Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 VT/LB SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---MISSING
3 G139 22 VT/OR SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---MISSING
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

1. Regardless of model, all Wranglers will have a partial harness with (2) of the (4) required wires needed for this sensor (see above for notes on the needed terminal leads).
2. Cut off about a 2’ piece of the 22/4 stranded wire.
3. Strip the shielding off 1 end to reveal the (4) conductors.
4. Cut (2) of the (4) conductors flush to the shielding as you only need (2) of the conductors for this sensor. I kept green and red and disposed of black and white.
5. Solder the terminal leads for the sun sensor connector to the green and red wires.
6. Shrink tube to protect.

As I mentioned, in my case, I had terminal leads available for this particular connector. My pin out on the Sun Sensor end was then as such:

My Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 GREEN SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---Will go to cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
3 G139 22 RED SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---Will go to cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

HVAC Control Unit End:
1. The (2) conductors in this harness will require terminal leads at the HVAC Control Unit end that will plug into the HVAC Control Unit Connector. These were obtained from a used connector I purchased on eBay.
2. Strip the shielding off the end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Cut (2) of the (4) conductors flush to the shielding as you only need (2) of the conductors for this sensor. I kept green and red and disposed of black and white.
4. Solder the terminal leads for the HVAC Control Unit connector to the green and red wires
5. Shrink tube to protect

In my case, I was using used terminal leads from a non-Jeep vehicle so the color of the wires doesn’t necessarily match the Factory Wrangler Pin out for wire color. Not a big deal. What I ended up with is as follows:

My Final Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 L24 22 WT/VT AUTO HEADLAMPS SIGNAL
2 G39 22 GREEN to lb/lg @ HVAC end SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 1 <---Will go to cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
3 G139 22 RED to lb/lv @ HVAC end SUN SENSOR SIGNAL 2 <---Will go to cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit Connector
4 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND

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Wiring – Cabin Temperature Sensor Connector

Sensor End Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 C36 22 LB/BR BLEND DOOR FEEDBACK SIGNAL
2 C121 22 DB/DG SENSOR GROUND
3 F921 22 PK/YL FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT
4 Z903 22 BK GROUND

1. Cut off about a 2’ piece of the 22/4 stranded wire.
2. Strip the shielding off 1 end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Strip and tin all (4) conductors
4. Strip and tin all (4) terminal leads that came with your new connector
5. Solder the terminal leads to the conductors
6. Shrink tube to protect.

I assigned the follow colors to the following pins:

My Pinout:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 C36 22 GREEN BLEND DOOR FEEDBACK SIGNAL
2 C121 22 WHITE SENSOR GROUND
3 F921 22 RED FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT
4 Z903 22 BLACK GROUND

HVAC Control Unit End:
1. The (4) conductors in this harness will require (1) terminal lead at the HVAC Control Unit end that will plug into the HVAC Control Unit Connector. This was obtained from the used connector I purchased on eBay.
2. Strip the shielding off the end to reveal the (4) conductors.
3. Solder a terminal lead for the HVAC Control Unit connector to the green wire or whatever you designated for Pin 1-Blend Door Feedback Signal
4. Shrink tube to protect

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Preparation – HVAC Control Unit Connector

Factory Pin Out:
Pin Circuit Gauge Color Function
1 c56 18 db/lb blower control
2 a417 20 rd fused b(+) (i.o.d.)
3 f921 20 pk/yl fused run relay output
4 z916 22 bk ground
5 d264 22 wt/or can interior bus (125k) (-)
6 d265 22 wt/gy can interior bus (125k) (+)
7 c121 22 db/dg sensor ground
8 c21 22 db/lg evaporator temperature sensor signal
9 g39 22 vt/lb sun sensor 1 signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 2 of the Sun Sensor Harness
10 g139 22 vt/or sun sensor 2 signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 3 of the Sun Sensor Harness
11 c32 22 db/tn recirculation door driver (a)
12 c35 22 lb/or mode door driver
13 c61 22 db/lg driver blend door driver
14 c34 22 db/lb common door driver
15 l24 22 wt/vt auto headlamps signal
16 c36 22 lb/br blend door feedback signal <---MISSING; Comes from Pin 1 of the Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness

1. Remove white retaining clip from the face of the connector.

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Final Assembly - Wiring

WARNING: Ok, so this is where the steady hand and patience comes into play. You are working in tight quarters with small diameter wires and a hot soldering iron. Be careful not to burn yourself or your Jeep’s interior. Also, be careful handling the 22ga wires you will be attaching this all to as they are relatively fragile.

1. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 3-fused run relay output wire, it is Pink/Yellow. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
2. Wrap the wire from Pin 3- FUSED RUN RELAY OUTPUT of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
3. Solder the new splice you have created.
4. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
5. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 7- sensor ground wire, it is Dark Blue/Dark Green. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
6. Wrap the wire from Pin 2- SENSOR GROUND of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
7. Solder the new splice you have created.
8. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
9. Carefully expose 1/16” or so of wire on the Pin 4-GROUND wire, it is black. Do this about 2” up from the HVAC Control Unit connector.
10. Wrap the wire from Pin 4- GROUND of your Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness around the exposed copper.
11. Solder the new splice you have created.
12. Shrink tube/tape for protection.
13. Exhale, that was the hard part.
14. Plug the remaining terminal lead (from Pin 1) from the Cabin Temperature Sensor Harness into cavity 16 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
15. Plug the terminal lead from Pin 2-Sun Sensor 1 into cavity 9 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
16. Plug the terminal lead from Pin 3-Sun Sensor 1 into cavity 10 of the HVAC Control Unit connector.
17. Plug the white retaining clip back into the connector to retain the pins.
18. All wiring connections are now complete.

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Final Assembly and Test

1. If you haven’t already, plug the Sun Sensor Harness into the Sun Sensor.
2. If you haven’t already, plug the Cabin Temperature Harness into the Cabin Temperature Sensor.
3. Plug the HVAC Control Unit into the HVAC Control Unit connector.
4. Moment of truth…”Key on”.
5. The LED on the HVAC Control Unit will blink for about 30 seconds, there will be no function of unit during this period. Once the LED stops blinking, the unit is ready to function.
6. Set both knobs to “Auto” and start the engine.
7. Allow the engine to come up to temperature.
8. Set the temperature to 70F or so and watch/listen/feel the unit adjust the speed of the blower to maintain the temperature.
9. I installed mine in winter, an easy check is to push the “AC” button. The LED should blink 3 times. Per the owners manual, 3 blinks is the HVAC Control Unit telling you that AC is not required to maintain the requested temperature.
10. Another quick check is to verify function of the Cabin Temperature Sensor. This can be done visually as there is a small impeller spinning on a shaft that you can see. It is basically sucking in cabin air to measure the temperature of it. The impeller should be spinning. (Photo 1 is "Key Off", impeller not spinning. Photo 2 is "Engine On", impeller spinning.)
11. Aside from that, play with the temperatures. Moving mine up to 80F, the ATC turned up the blower speed to move more warm air into the cabin. Immediately turning it down into the 60F range, it dropped the speed accordingly.

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That’s it! I hope this helps, relax and enjoy your new option!