I went though and added some descriptions to some of my earlier photos.

It's a good amount of work but I did this 100% by myself so it can be done.

That's cool. Good luck with the project.

 

Great Thread, I really want to do this

 

When you did the spraying, what did you have to use to get the gun connected to the compressor? The gun that came with mine has threads at the end where the connector for the compressor usually is?

 

It probably didnt come with a nipple/quick connect. Buy a package or just borrow one off another tool.

 

My compressor hose has a quick disconnect so I went and bought a female quick connector nipple $1.58 @ Home Depot. You'll find them with the air tools. I was going to borrow one from one of my tools but those were all male connectors. On the picture below I bought the connector on the left (except female) for the gun because I have a quick disconnect like on the right on my hose. If you have another tool plugged in and cannot borrow the connector from it, then I would take it with you to make sure you get the right size (1/4" or 3/8"). It doesn't matter if you get zinc or brass. If your are going to leave the connector in the gun I would use some white thread tape, but you don't have to.


It looks like below

 

How much did you use to do the tub?

I want to do my 4 door and tuffy lid

Eventually I would like to do my poison spyder bumper and possibly wheels.

Should I buy two kits? Or was there plenty left?

 

If you where going to do the wheels and bumper I would get more liner. I would think wheels would need about 2 bottles and a bumper maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 of a bottle (that would be 2 coats for each).

I have heard of people only using 3 bottles on a 2 door but it would be a really thin 2nd coat. The kit is advertised as doing 125 square feet for a standard 8' truck bed. With my 2 door I think I had just enough left (that I sprayed in the footwells) were I could have done an unlimited with 2 coats. An extra bottle would be nice to have for the 2nd coat. When I was spraying I was sort of shocked about how fast it went. 1 bottle will cover about half a 2dr Jeep solid without the paint under showing. After 2 bottles for the first coat I had almost all the paint area covered well. The only area were it was a bit thin was in the deep recesses of the driver side foot well. If I was to do it again I would have sprayed the foot-wells, deep under the center console, deep in the jack area, and a light coat around the rear seat mount first with some rustolum rattle can bed liner. I basically did that with the spray can stuff after the first coat.

The kit I got comes with 4 bottles of base and 1 liter of hardener and the sprayer from TP Tools and Equipment part ME-820. There is also some kits floating around that don't have the gun so you need to be careful. Those kits are cheaper so if they come with hardener too that might be the way to go if you want extra. I saw the no gun kit one on amazon

No tt LINK-> h__p://www.amazon.com/Raptor-Truck-Bed-Liner-Black/dp/B002ANVF5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342832620&sr=8-1

You can also get it by the bottle, but again remember you need 250ml (about a cup) of hardener per bottle.

NOTE: Honestly U-Pol doesn't make it easy to tell which kit has the gun and which doesn't. I would call up where ever you get it or at least make really sure the kit says it comes with the gun.

 

It's a good idea to use an air compressor filter to catch dirt and water. You can get one for about $15 I just noticed I don't have one on my compressor .

 

I have been driving with the quadratec liners in the front (on top of tool drawer liner to stop them from slipping). With that set up I have had no problems with heat or slipping around.


I took the floor liners out today just to see what it's like without the floor mats. After driving for about an hour my feet started to get slightly warm. On a road trip I'm sure they would get pretty sweaty. It won't burn you hand touching the floor panels but it feels like you have the heater blowing on low. It's the worst right up by the gas pedal. It stays fairly warm where you rest your left foot. Under the front seats it's not really all that bad. It also was pretty warm where the rear heat goop was above the rear axle. It's not terrible but bad. If someone was riding with you I doubt they would notice toasty feet unless you pointed it out or they were barefoot.

To prevent this I have heard of a product called "Lizard Skin - Ceramic Insulation" that has an anti heat spray on product. I would use that or something like it before lining if no mats is one of your goals. It also comes in a sound dampening variety that I don't think you really need. I won't totally know about that until winter with the hard top on and window up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUN61EzFaRA EDIT Since posting this I found this quote from post->https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...1/#post3178556
Another thing that I noticed is that because of some of the horizontal reinforcing ridges my left foot felt like it was slipping a bit with no mat. You can see the ridges in this picture below, they go across the floor and up the side. It make it where your foot is resting on these little ridges instead of being flat and having alot of traction. I've got running shoes with a good amount of tread and that doesn't help. The right foot felt really solid for what its worth.


Moral of the story is that your going to want some kind of mats most likely if you do this mod

 

I wonder how well this lizard skin stuff would work on the inside of people's hard tops for temperature regulation