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JK Show & TellWhether they're just poser shots in your driveway or hardcore action shots on the trail, if you've got photos or videos of your Jeep JK Wrangler (or any JK for that matter that you think is worth showing off, inside or out), we want to see them so please post them here! Likewise, if you are wanting to see a photo of something specific like an aftermarket JK part or poser shot with a specific setup, this is the place to ask for it.
Amassing parts, fluids & tools to replace the timing chain set on my ‘09 JKUR. Only 75,000 miles. Not pleased about this. Chain is loose as a goose, have never had a timing chain wear out this quickly. Job isn’t all that difficult, giant PITA!
Replaced the timing chain & gears, discovered the passenger side exhaust manifold had shed the frontmost bolt and left the shank in the cylinder head. On disassembly for the lower intake manifold seal I pulled the exhaust manifold and discovered it was warped and was developing a crack. Parts order included the new manifold, gasket 6 new bolts, both downpipe bolts & nut assemblies. Installed the new manifold before doing the lower intake manifold gasket. Some work with a Dremel and a right angle adapter, plus some dental drill-style bits created a large enough hole in the broken off bolt shank to get a sharp Easy-Out in securely. The bolt backed right out. Because one of the plug wires on the passenger side had decided to come apart on removal I installed a whole new set and repaired the crumbled conduit on the coil module harness. Lower intake manifold gasket and manifold went back on easily. Having discovered the thermostat gasket had been leaking as well I installed a new thermostat and was surprised to see the factory torque spec of 250 inch pounds for the PLASTIC thermostat housing. Clearly a mistake for those tiny bolts. Just torqued them to around 100 inch pounds and called it good. Reattached the harness for the injectors and sensors and repaired some deteriorated split loom conduit on it as well. The push-pins for the injectors wouldn't secure on their brackest, so I added some zip ties to hold them in place. Upper intake manifold went back on with new gaskets ($8 a piece from Chrysler!). The 105 inch pound torque spec for the upper intake manifold's 8 bolts was also suspect. I did it at 80 ft lbs and left it. Now came the next surprise. When I tried to plug in the throttle body connector BOTH locking tabs on it broke off. Had to order Mopar kit # 68018956AC for a new one & repair kit. Was able to just replace the connector without having to splice in new wires. Having discovered the PCV valve loose in it's socket on the driver side valve cover it was replaced. Everything else buttoned up, oil & coolant added, fingers crossed, cranked it for oil pressure using the "clear out" proceedure (accelerator held to the floor while cranking) for about ten seconds. Fired it up, checked for leaks...VOILA! Runs likea top, no more timing chain noise, no leaks.
Took the 2011 JKU out to test the wheel well clearance on the the new Duratrac 33s. They are 275/70 on stock 18s, and aside from the new tires I am trying to keep everything else stock. No clearance problems on the fenders on this light flex test. I am not going to be doing heavy rock crawling. As I expected before installation (after much research on this forum) there is some rubbing on the sway bar at full turn so I may still add 1.5in spacers.
What type of paint did you use? I need to do this as well
Ace Premium Satin Enamel. It's currently on Sale 2 for $6. I good paint, basically the same as Krylon as they make it for Ace. I have used it on my RZR for years and it holds up well.
Be prepared to do some sanding as mine was very pitted under the paint. I also used an Ace Primer to build it up some and fill in the imperfections. Note, it's best to paint them with the bolts in, so the mating surface does not get painted. Tightening the bolt just peels it off, unless you let it cure a long time. Also, it seems OEM painted the hinges on the hood. Hosted by JeepParking.com
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