they're on Woodward, just north of 13 mile. I'll likely do this myself, but would prefer to do with quality parts. he won't sell me the parts though, so I'm wondering where I can get maybe better stuff than ebay, although sounds like that stuff may be decent...?

Murray's has a kit for $170, but that's a LOT compared to $35 off ebay!

 

Honestly the stuff on ebay prolly isnt any better or any worse than what we use. I couldnt even tell you who makes the ones that i got from work. They were in a plain clear bag with no manufacturer logos anywhere to be found. Id go with a good seller on ebay. If their feedback is good and they have multiple listings of the same item, more than likely its a good buy

 

hi do you need to buy the cable style actuators or will just the reg rod style ones work ? anyone have a ebay link to a set that would work ? thanks alote !

 

the rod ones work fine, you will have 2 screws on the inside of the door visable, but after a week, you cant even notice em that they werent there before. Just use stainless steel screws and treat the edges of the holes.

 

Thanks for the great info. I have to install the actuators in mine, since they are not an option on the half-door JK's. I will post a half-door write up when the weather is nice and I can get to it. Oh, over a foot of snow so far here in SE Wis today, what a great way to spend a day off.

 

yeah this is great info. i had a alarm installed and then the installer couldnt figure out how to do the doors . i checked alote of places and no one knew how to do them . so im gonna try them myself ! thanks for all the help !

 

i got the front doors done today. wasnt to bad.. thanks to this write up. now im gonna try the back doors. has anyone done that back doors yet. i assume they are same as the front pretty much ? thanks again

 

Did you happen to take any pics?

 

i didnt take any pictures i just followed the write up here pretty much , and everything went pretty smooth . after you do one door its alote easier. i also got one back door done , kinda like the front but i had to remove the door look assembly to get to where i needed to attach the actuator but it was only 3 screws , easy to do . so ihave one more back door to do. ill take some pics of that one. nice to have power locks again. next maybe ill try the windows.

 

Thanks to my inferior link bending skills, my RR door aftermarket lock wasn't wanting to lock. (unlock was fine, since it was a "pull" motion) My kids complained that the doors were harder to lock and unlock manually.

I bit the bullet and bought a couple OEM power latches. (LF and RR at this point) I also figured that the new OEM latch would solve the latch rattle problem. I have to say that power latches versus add-on actuators were MUCH easier and saved a LOT of time. Also, the OEM power latch doesn't change the feel of manual actuation.
So, it's a trade-off between price and installation time. Running the wires and crimping the quick connects at the underdash were the bulk of the time, which would be required regardless of actuator choice. (I never got around to LF and LR last fall when I bought the aftermarket kit, so I still needed to run those wires. -It got cold!) It was very easy to simulate a terminal at the latch connector by shaving the wire insulation into a square profile and making a lock notch. The connector is the same for power and non, they just don't use the power lock terminal positions. The non-power latches have 4 pins, but the two for power locks are just "there."

For anyone looking to add power locks, I would recommend buying the OEM power latches. (which do NOT provide the relays and wiring, however) The kits on ebay are cheap enough to be worth the relays and wiring. The actuators could then be used for other creative projects. Of course, the problem of low inventory/selection on dealers' lots isn't the problem now that it was when I bought mine, but someone might still change his/her mind about power locks down the road.