Adding Aftermarket Door lock Actuators
For anyone using the cheap EBay kits:>>>>>
I found that mine would occasionally not lock, or unlock a door or 2. Not always the same door/doors either.
As it turned out, the master actuator just needed a bit less "drag"....which I did by cutting the original manual lock cable. Every door locks with authority now!!
I was afraid the actuators just weren't gonna' be strong enough in the long run.
But cutting that cable on the drivers door lock ONLY, fixed 'em ALL!!
Now you can hear 'em SNAP!!!
Other than that, they've been trouble free. Surprisingly, my Ebay power window kits are working fine too.
I found that mine would occasionally not lock, or unlock a door or 2. Not always the same door/doors either.
As it turned out, the master actuator just needed a bit less "drag"....which I did by cutting the original manual lock cable. Every door locks with authority now!!
I was afraid the actuators just weren't gonna' be strong enough in the long run.
But cutting that cable on the drivers door lock ONLY, fixed 'em ALL!!

Now you can hear 'em SNAP!!!

Other than that, they've been trouble free. Surprisingly, my Ebay power window kits are working fine too.
How tough was the window kit to install, particularly the back windows?
Thanks
Been a long time....can't even tell you the seller, but they're all 'bout the same I spose? I paid around $30 for the lock kit, and $65 for the cable driven window kit(2 dr kit). I did ONLY the frt. windows. The rear doors are too small, you'll never get the kit to work on those. I only wanted frt's anyhow.
It's a tough install, the motor at the end of the cable drive can only go 1 place.....and, it all has to be fitted to the back of the inner door liner. It requires some cutting of the innerliner, tho' not major. And, cutting about an inch off the original crank stub. (otherwise, it sticks thru' so far, you can't cap it off, and, the crank actuator would have to be on the OUTSIDE of the actual door panel

I installed 'em thinking they'd be okay until the salvage yards start getting some used power window units.....but, they've really surprised me. No probs at all, and they've been in for 9 months or so. I put the switches on the console, just behind the shifter.
I can take pics of the windows, or the switches. Take your choice!!
Honestly, before I put that inner liner back on, I shoulda' took pics, just to show HOW it can be done, but at that point, it had been a very long day, and all I wanted to do was get DONE!!
I'm sure you know the feeling.
Keep in mind, I did the locks, then actually redid those damn innerliners again for the windows. I can tell you this, the window motors block the access hole for releasing the window tracks. I had to pull one back off later, and had one HELL of a time getting the passenger window released!!

Honestly, before I put that inner liner back on, I shoulda' took pics, just to show HOW it can be done, but at that point, it had been a very long day, and all I wanted to do was get DONE!!
I'm sure you know the feeling.
Keep in mind, I did the locks, then actually redid those damn innerliners again for the windows. I can tell you this, the window motors block the access hole for releasing the window tracks. I had to pull one back off later, and had one HELL of a time getting the passenger window released!!
here's a rough draft....as I recall, the motor blocked part of EACH access hole for the window, so this is definitely not an accurate locator. You just need to mount the motor, with cable exit going straight up, then it curves toward the crank stub
red lines are places that require a cut, slot....whatever.
The lower red cut, is to accomodate the very bottom of the motor, where the innerliner flange prevents it from sitting flat against the panel.
this is your pic James, in case it looks familiar!!

the actual kit, looked like this:
red lines are places that require a cut, slot....whatever.
The lower red cut, is to accomodate the very bottom of the motor, where the innerliner flange prevents it from sitting flat against the panel.
this is your pic James, in case it looks familiar!!


the actual kit, looked like this:
Last edited by dmerc; Jun 9, 2008 at 09:12 AM.
I am looking at installing door acuators, window acuators and remote start kit for 07 JK 4 doors. I would like to see your installation of your audiovox, mine is mannix I'm pretty sure is the same concept. thanks in advance.
i will try and take some this weekend.
Here is the wiring info for ya
08 should be the same as 07 idk bout 09 yet. 
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/jk-resources-19439/
Here is the wiring info for ya

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/jk-resources-19439/
I'm going to give this a try, my girlfriend took her 08 X to her car alarm installer guy along with an actuator kit we bought through Quadratec. He looked at it and gave up after a bit with the generic instructions that came with the kit. I'm going to go by this thread and do it myself.
Once this is done how can the doors be removed? Not sure if new factory connectors are available.
Once this is done how can the doors be removed? Not sure if new factory connectors are available.
yup i did mine and can still remove the doors i just added a plug for each door that i can unplug when i want to remove doors. i also went to 2 different car alarm places and they couldnt do it. but i followed these instructions here and had no problems. worked great. just took alittle time. but well worth it . good luck.


