OR-Fab tire carrier install
I'm thinking of picking up an OR-Fab tire carrier (non-Jerry canned version) but I want to run a bike rack and carry a couple of 30lb bikes occasionally. I see the OR-Fab site says the max weight is 175lbs which seems like quite a bit. I have a 35" BFG MT on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8 wheel so I think that setup is less than 100lb. The Yakima rack I have is about 15lbs. I have 3 bikes, none of which exceed 30lbs. So if I carried two bikes, I figure 100+15+30+30 = 175. That's right at the max weight. Obviously, this woudl only be occasionally so 90% of the time it would only have the spare.
Anyone run a similar setup?
Anyone run a similar setup?
Ok, just finished my install on Sunday. So how in the world did everyone get the flange nuts installed on the passenger side? I was able to get the bottom ones done but the top ones are impossible. I just barely got the nuts threaded on the bolt and there's no way to get a tool back there. Two of the bolts are so close to the sheet metal that there's no way to get a socket around them.
So are those flange nuts on the backside terribly important? I got the long one that holds the support bracket tightened decently, but not correctly. Is my carrier gonna fall off because I can't get those stupid nuts tightened?
So are those flange nuts on the backside terribly important? I got the long one that holds the support bracket tightened decently, but not correctly. Is my carrier gonna fall off because I can't get those stupid nuts tightened?
Ok, just finished my install on Sunday. So how in the world did everyone get the flange nuts installed on the passenger side? I was able to get the bottom ones done but the top ones are impossible. I just barely got the nuts threaded on the bolt and there's no way to get a tool back there. Two of the bolts are so close to the sheet metal that there's no way to get a socket around them.
So are those flange nuts on the backside terribly important? I got the long one that holds the support bracket tightened decently, but not correctly. Is my carrier gonna fall off because I can't get those stupid nuts tightened?
So are those flange nuts on the backside terribly important? I got the long one that holds the support bracket tightened decently, but not correctly. Is my carrier gonna fall off because I can't get those stupid nuts tightened?
The only one that's really important is the outer-top flange nut that holds the support bracket. I also had a hard time tightening this, but here's how I did it - and I have big hands. In order to do this properly, get a 6" rachet extension bar and attach it to a 14mm deep socket (or is it 13mm? I forgot). Also, I used a thin profile rachet which is a little shorter and was able to fit it in the hole without a problem. You will stick the rachet with the extension and deep socket inside the tail light hole and twist it around so that you can get behind the nut. Once you find the nut with the socket, just tighten down - with a short rachet, you should be able to do this without a problem. Yes, it's cumbersome, but I tightened it down pretty good and didn't have a problem.
Good luck.
I'm about to attempt my install this weekend. Bought it used from another forum member. Unfortunately I needed to by all new hardware since half of it was missing. $57 just for the hardware! I guess that;s what I get for trying to save a few bucks. I'm praying that my right-angle drill attachment will fit into the tail light hole to drill the holes for mount the landing block. Wish me luck!
I only used one or two flange nuts. The stock nuts that are welded into the back panel should be sufficient, but the flange nuts just give a little extra support and help distribute the weight more evenly.
The only one that's really important is the outer-top flange nut that holds the support bracket. I also had a hard time tightening this, but here's how I did it - and I have big hands. In order to do this properly, get a 6" rachet extension bar and attach it to a 14mm deep socket (or is it 13mm? I forgot). Also, I used a thin profile rachet which is a little shorter and was able to fit it in the hole without a problem. You will stick the rachet with the extension and deep socket inside the tail light hole and twist it around so that you can get behind the nut. Once you find the nut with the socket, just tighten down - with a short rachet, you should be able to do this without a problem. Yes, it's cumbersome, but I tightened it down pretty good and didn't have a problem.
Good luck.
The only one that's really important is the outer-top flange nut that holds the support bracket. I also had a hard time tightening this, but here's how I did it - and I have big hands. In order to do this properly, get a 6" rachet extension bar and attach it to a 14mm deep socket (or is it 13mm? I forgot). Also, I used a thin profile rachet which is a little shorter and was able to fit it in the hole without a problem. You will stick the rachet with the extension and deep socket inside the tail light hole and twist it around so that you can get behind the nut. Once you find the nut with the socket, just tighten down - with a short rachet, you should be able to do this without a problem. Yes, it's cumbersome, but I tightened it down pretty good and didn't have a problem.
Good luck.
I'm about to attempt my install this weekend. Bought it used from another forum member. Unfortunately I needed to by all new hardware since half of it was missing. $57 just for the hardware! I guess that;s what I get for trying to save a few bucks. I'm praying that my right-angle drill attachment will fit into the tail light hole to drill the holes for mount the landing block. Wish me luck!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A9arKi45AM Good Luck.
I'm about to attempt my install this weekend. Bought it used from another forum member. Unfortunately I needed to by all new hardware since half of it was missing. $57 just for the hardware! I guess that;s what I get for trying to save a few bucks. I'm praying that my right-angle drill attachment will fit into the tail light hole to drill the holes for mount the landing block. Wish me luck!
There's a little play in where the holes need to be drilled, so don't be too concerned about being too exact. My angle drill was too large and I had to drill in from the outside of the body to the landing block. I was off by about 1/16" and just grinded the hole out a bit. You can't tell that the hole is slightly larger than the washer, especially with the RTV around it. The carrier is very well designed and extremely well built. You will be very happy with it.
Don't be afraid to post questions during the install. Good luck!
stevedolce,
How are you attaching the RotoPax brackets to the cage. I am running military Scepter cans on my OR Fab carrier, but would really like to run the RotoPax setup. Any photos or a description would be awesome.
you'll need the Polaris RZR plate from rotopax. it hangs down off the tube of the carrier. believe it's a 1.5 inch curve..attaches with a hose clamp. i needed to cut maybe 1/4 inch off the bottom of mounting plate so that it would fit right in the lower lip that supports the jerry can. i ran a bead of silicone along the edge to prevent rust. i can email you some pix if you would like.
i'm currently running 2 black storage containers for my tools(stacked back to back) and one ugly orange container for my recovery gear..
there not 100% waterproof, but better then any other solution i came across..
steve
i'm currently running 2 black storage containers for my tools(stacked back to back) and one ugly orange container for my recovery gear..
there not 100% waterproof, but better then any other solution i came across..
steve


