Hardtop hoist/storage write-up
There's a ton of information in this thread. Thanks to all who contributed.
I've been wanting to do this project for over a year, and finally got the time and $$ to do it.
I've got everthing I need, including an electric hoist from Harbor Freight for $75, I just cannot find the square 3"x7.5" U bolts. maybe I'm looking in the wrong dept.?
Thanks
I've been wanting to do this project for over a year, and finally got the time and $$ to do it.
I've got everthing I need, including an electric hoist from Harbor Freight for $75, I just cannot find the square 3"x7.5" U bolts. maybe I'm looking in the wrong dept.?
Thanks
Worst case just do a search for a supplier of National Hardware and buy it online...
"..5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)..."
As an alternative to the 5-hole gusset plate, I used one two hole straight plate, a single right angle bracket, and a single hole square plate. All of them were one the shelf right under the channel strut at HD. Cut the channel to length, form the T, use the 3 hole right angle plate to join the T, place the single hole right next to the right angle plate, then join the single hole plate and the right angle plate using the 2 hole plate. You will need to use slightly longer bolts in the two places where the plates are double thickness.
Everything you need from HD in a one stop shopping spree (like that ever happens!).
As an alternative to the 5-hole gusset plate, I used one two hole straight plate, a single right angle bracket, and a single hole square plate. All of them were one the shelf right under the channel strut at HD. Cut the channel to length, form the T, use the 3 hole right angle plate to join the T, place the single hole right next to the right angle plate, then join the single hole plate and the right angle plate using the 2 hole plate. You will need to use slightly longer bolts in the two places where the plates are double thickness.
Everything you need from HD in a one stop shopping spree (like that ever happens!).
WOW!!! I think I've put in 28 hours work on my garage to install this type of winch/shelf setup.
Had to tear down 3 small walls that i put up for shelving.
Had to move the attic crawl space door over a few feet to accomodate
the winch point.
Spackling/filling holes - pinted the walls/ceiling.
Probably 90 pct done.
The shelf is real solid, lag screws into the wall and two sections
of the L bracket for two chain supports into the ceiling.
Will post pictures when done.
I still need the T-Gussett - it's on order at Fastenal.
and I can't find the 3 end caps for the big T. Anyone????
Planning on putting the winch point on a box rail, so I can slide the top over to above the shelf.
Needed to bump this thread anyway.
Had to tear down 3 small walls that i put up for shelving.
Had to move the attic crawl space door over a few feet to accomodate
the winch point.
Spackling/filling holes - pinted the walls/ceiling.
Probably 90 pct done.
The shelf is real solid, lag screws into the wall and two sections
of the L bracket for two chain supports into the ceiling.
Will post pictures when done.
I still need the T-Gussett - it's on order at Fastenal.
and I can't find the 3 end caps for the big T. Anyone????
Planning on putting the winch point on a box rail, so I can slide the top over to above the shelf.
Needed to bump this thread anyway.
I routed my rope into the attic and down the wall to hide the circus act.
I welded a tube frame together based on you post.
Now taking the top off is a one man show.
Thanks!
So here's where I am now...
I have the winch lag bolted to the wall on a shelf of 1x3 and 2x6 pieces.
The shelf is lag bolted to the wall and also supported by a 2x4 lag bolted into the wall. Two chains are connected on the right side corners to corner beams lag bolted into the ceiling joists and also supported on the right by 2 legs that are shot into the floor. It's solid, but I prk the Harley under/next to it and I didn't want to take any chances.
Here's a problem -
The block/tackle is riding on wheels inside of the 10' box rail. Any weight (even just the cable) causes the block and tackle to be pulled to the left towards the winch. Right now, I figure to secure the block/tackle with rope over to some hooks on the right. Anyone have better ideas as to how to get around this?
Here's some pix.
IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch001.jpg[/IMG]





I have the winch lag bolted to the wall on a shelf of 1x3 and 2x6 pieces.
The shelf is lag bolted to the wall and also supported by a 2x4 lag bolted into the wall. Two chains are connected on the right side corners to corner beams lag bolted into the ceiling joists and also supported on the right by 2 legs that are shot into the floor. It's solid, but I prk the Harley under/next to it and I didn't want to take any chances.
Here's a problem -
The block/tackle is riding on wheels inside of the 10' box rail. Any weight (even just the cable) causes the block and tackle to be pulled to the left towards the winch. Right now, I figure to secure the block/tackle with rope over to some hooks on the right. Anyone have better ideas as to how to get around this?
Here's some pix.
IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch001.jpg[/IMG]





Last edited by C.R.U.S.H.; Jun 25, 2009 at 04:58 AM.
Obviously you can't mount is at the roller because that we be too difficult to crank right next to the ceiling. You could mount it directly onto your T-frame & should be able to reach the crank. If you can't reach the center of gravity of the T, you can mount the winch on one side (or the rear) of the T and use pulleys to run the cable to the Center of Gravity.
I don't know if you've tried this on you top yet, but the two other problems you will have with your setup are:
1 - The winch cable will be pulling the top toward the back wall with a force of 1/2 the weight of the top (about 50 lbs) when you unhook that securing rope. Could be tough to control.
2 - The top will lower as you slide it back on the rail. With doubler setup, the top will lower 6 inches for each 12 inches you slide the top back on the rail.


