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Hardtop hoist/storage write-up

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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 04:28 AM
  #241  
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Thanks Yellow Toy - if I move the winch to the other side that woould be a great fix for when I take the top off and move it over to the shelf. But..... When it came time to put the hardtop back on - then I have the same issue all over again.

You've given me an idea - I'm thinking of a counter weight (50-60 lbs???) hanging off an eye hook that would keep tension on the right side.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #242  
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Great work HG07JKRubi!!! Looks impressibly clean and professional!!!
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by HDGreyrider

You've given me an idea - I'm thinking of a counter weight (50-60 lbs???) hanging off an eye hook that would keep tension on the right side.
How about this... Use the "tie-off" while you're cranking it up, then run a stinger (short piece of cable or chain) directly to the hook on the bottom of the pulley so you can let the tension out of the wire rope because the weight would be held directly by the stinger.

Once you then unhook the tie-off cranking on the winch will draw the the whole top back onto the platform while taking the slack out of the wire rope.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #244  
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I stole this design myself and modified a few things to fit my needs. The worm gear style winch is geared really slow so I use my electric drill to raise/lower the top. The gear ratio is so low that my cheapo drill has no problems turning with the 100 lb weight. I installed eye bolts to the 4 corners and will eventually make a wood shelf but for now I just use the cotton rope tied off as a secondary support for the top in case the winch fails.




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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:52 AM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by BigdaddyH
Nice BigDaddy... Some flat 2 hole washers like I used will keep those U-bolt hooks nice and perpendicular to the t-bar. The can be found at Home Depot in the electrical section near the channel strut... You can see how straight the hooks will be when using the washers on top of the channel strut here ...

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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:06 AM
  #246  
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Good call.

I'm thinking about dipping the ubolts in that rubberized paint stuff like what you redo your plier handles with. I'll have to dig some of that stuff up somewhere.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #247  
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Finished mine this weekend. I'd post pics, but it looks just like what HG07JKRubi did with a few minor modifications. I saw one post that said they spent $240...not sure how they did that, I shopped at Tractor Supply, Home Depot and Harbor Freight and picked everything up 'all-in' for $140. Takes 5 min to get it off and 10 to put it on by myself now. Awesome forum, thanks everybody.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by Shaun.AndersonTX
Finished mine this weekend. I'd post pics, but it looks just like what HG07JKRubi did with a few minor modifications. I saw one post that said they spent $240...not sure how they did that, I shopped at Tractor Supply, Home Depot and Harbor Freight and picked everything up 'all-in' for $140. Takes 5 min to get it off and 10 to put it on by myself now. Awesome forum, thanks everybody.
Shaun, I think that was me that paid $240 all said and done. I had to add door track and rollers to mine so that I could lift it up and slide it back over my pinball machine and other storage items.

I think you are right that you can do it well under $150. My point on the $240 total was that I think this would be on the very high end, as it includes a winch that can be rolled back on door track with the hard top hoisted.

Hope that helps clear up any cost confusion.
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #249  
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Hey Guys / gals. Just another suggestion that I haven't seen mentioned, though I might have missed it.

This is for those like me that store the T-frame against the ceiling when the top is on.


I installed another eyebolt up where the two sections of the unistrut join. It makes it so the bottom of the "T" is the heavy part while unloaded. After I stick the top on I unhook from the main eye and hook onto the storage eye and just raise it up so the top of the "T" is against the celling. It's a lot more steady that way.



Bad pic, but you get the idea. Just install an eye up closer to heavy part of the "T".




This is for those that used a electric winch. You can see in the above pic the 4 color trailer wiring. I used it to extend the winch remote wiring to a better place for me. I also used a 4 prong trailer plug so I can unplug it during the winter. I'll get an overview pic later on.



The remote is hanging down beside the far right blue tie-down. The attic stairs mad for an easy install.


Last edited by Hip2u77; Jul 21, 2009 at 12:21 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by Hip2u77
Hey Guys / gals. Just another suggestion that I haven't seen mentioned, though I might have missed it.

This is for those like me that store the T-frame against the ceiling when the top is on.


I installed another eyebolt up where the two sections of the unistrut join. It makes it so the bottom of the "T" is the heavy part while unloaded. After I stick the top on I unhook from the main eye and hook onto the storage eye and just raise it up so the top of the "T" is against the celling. It's a lot more steady that way.
Cool. Got a picture ?
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