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'11 3.8L in a '07 wrangler

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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 09:33 AM
  #21  
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Picked up my new 3.8 engine this morning. Turns out it only has just Over 50 miles on it. Turns out he drove off the Jeep lot and immediately began the LS transplant.

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You can see his modified Jeep in the background (see exhaust tips).

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I'll start my transplant next weekend.
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 46chevytruck
Picked up my new 3.8 engine this morning. Turns out it only has just Over 50 miles on it. Turns out he drove off the Jeep lot and immediately began the LS transplant.

<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=532896"/>

You can see his modified Jeep in the background (see exhaust tips).

<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=532897"/>

I'll start my transplant next weekend.
So basically a brand new engine. Thats awesome!
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #23  
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Perfect time to install the Gibson ceramic coated headers.

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Gibson provides a heat shield (I slightly modified/bent mine to better follow the contour of the header and keep the #6 wire from rubbing on the edge of the metal) to block heat from the coil pack, insulation for each wire and a 90* boot for the #4 wire.
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #24  
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Nice and clean 3.8L. How much did you pay for it if I may ask?

Did your headers only come with one heat shield? Are you going to provide some extra protection on the passenger side for the supercharger?
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 06:04 PM
  #25  
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Yes there is a heat guard on both sides.


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Getting prepared to remove the engine tomorrow.

Anybody need a Rescue Green grille? I'll be replacing mine.


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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 06:14 PM
  #26  
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Subscribed!

There is a big difference in response and performance between my 2008 and 2010 (both Rubicon) and always has been, the '10 is quicker, runs smoother and has never had the slow stumble of the '08. There may be a big enough difference in what the new vs old ECU are like to warrant the extra pain of setting it up with the '11 wiring and controller. Just something you might look into
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 07:21 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 46chevytruck
Attachment 533942

Yes there is a heat guard on both sides.
Thanks for posting this photo. How did you know how to position the heat shields? I came up with the following setup - not saying that this correct or that yours is wrong. On my first photo you can see a tab welded to the #1 tube (passenger side). Is there another tab on the #4 tube (driver's side)? Are these tabs meant to keep the hose clamps of the heat shields in place? If so I did it all wrong. But then again your passenger side shield does not look as if it can protect the battery box either or the supercharger for that matter.



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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 02:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Sebastian
Thanks for posting this photo. How did you know how to position the heat shields? I came up with the following setup - not saying that this correct or that yours is wrong. On my first photo you can see a tab welded to the #1 tube (passenger side). Is there another tab on the #4 tube (driver's side)? Are these tabs meant to keep the hose clamps of the heat shields in place? If so I did it all wrong. But then again your passenger side shield does not look as if it can protect the battery box either or the supercharger for that matter.
I believe you have them on the wrong sides. Based on the instructions that same with them, The larger one is on the battery side. Both of mine will be adjusted once in the Jeep. My tabs were welded to the guards and not the headers.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #29  
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I spent a few hours today in disassembly mode. There's just no easy way to do this job. I'm down to the last few bolts and have come to the realization that I can't reach the top bolts that connect the engine and tranny. Damn! It looks like I need to pull the tranny with the engine. The Jeep shop manual should state in the engine removal section: 'don't freakin kid yourself, even your wife's forearms aren't small enough to reach the back bolts.'

I even removed the fender liners to see if that would help - nope. Removing the body would be the way to go for sure. Unfortunately, I don't have a hoist.

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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 08:13 AM
  #30  
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If you have ever wondered about the cracked factory exhaust manifolds: here's whAt it looks like. This is the drivers side and it is cracked just about all the way around.

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Still working to get the damn engine out. :-)
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