I'm certain there is more to it but here's what looks like a pretty big difference to my untrained eye between the 2007 and the 2011 - the y-pipes. More specifically, there is what appears to be two cats on each side of the 2007. On the 2011 (top of the pile), there is only one large one on each side. The Oxygen sensors have the same plugs. I'll be using the 2011! For sale: 2007 y-pipe with four oxygen sensors. :-)

 

I guess you are right. I don't know what your instructions look like, but mine were just contradicting:



My heat shields came with tabs either. I was referring to the ones welded to the tubes:



I was wondering if those tabs are meant to keep the hose clamps in place.
This would somewhat clarify where the heat shields are supposed to sit.

 

I am pretty sure the tab in the circle has a Gibson logo stamped into it. You may be over thinking this one. Simply place the heat guard on the correct tube and adjust to where it looks like it will block the most heat from hitting something that will melt.

 

Yeah, this is what I should have done in the first place.

Are you actually going to use the hardware provided by Gibson to bolt the headers to the collectors? Me and many other users have a hard time to keep those thight. It seems like they tend to shake loose. Someone even tried LockTite and a counter nut but they still shook loose. I have the same problem which is somehow funny because next time I have to take off the fenders in oder to retighten the nuts I can rearrange the heat shields.

Usually I am not so OCD with things but both the cracked factory manifolds and the Gibson headers are driving me nuts.

 

I'm going to try them. I will leave my inner fenders off for a few weeks so I have easy access while I go through the procedure in the provided instructions. We will see how it works.

 

Is there a simple procedure to remove and reinstall the inner fenders? I thought they are attached with rivets to the outer fenders and therefore couldn't be reused. So far I always took off the entire fenders which wears out the hardware and plastic clips. I have already had to replace a couple of them.

 

They are attached with plastic rivets. You can buy a kit with rivets and the special rivet tool (not a normal pop rivet gun) from Amazon much (much!) cheaper than the dealer

 

Sounds good, would you mind posting a link to that kit on Amazon?

 

Ok. Not fun but after two days of this darn thing, the engine is out. The top two bolts that attach the tranny to the block are a bitch to reach. Half way done.

 

This is the one I have. Looks like they don't carry that particular one any more, but search on "Plastic Riveter" and you'll get a bunch of hits.

amazon.com/gp/product/B003PF7140/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1