View Poll Results: Did you regear for 35's?
Yes
37
29.13%
No
90
70.87%
Voters: 127. You may not vote on this poll
35's with or without regearing
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
Here are gears and an install kit (since you have a low miles 09) for $400 shipped:
http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail....NSTALL&cat=277
Gear oil and RTV might be $50-$75
So, if you could do it yourself, it would be $450-$475. Not $1000.
but I cant :( zero tools zero experience and zero desire to get in to this kinda mods yet on my own
The install is rated as an 8-10 hour job. So, if you have a local 4x4 shop that is slow because of the economy, they would probably do it for about $800-$1000 in labor.
124$ a hour if your LUCKY! thats getting a deal so 1000$ - 1250$ in just labor :(
So, a total of $1200-$1500...even in New York.
off still
your right though not too too bad 1400ish - 1700ish total is not 2k
But, in New Jersey:
OK4WD.com in Stewartsville, NJ 08886, is probably less than a 2 hour drive from you. I would bet they would do it for $1200-$1500--parts, labor and fluids if you caught them on a day when their calendar was empty.
I dont know the place but if I decide to gear I will prob be finding out alot more about them
Or, in Staten Island, RIPP Modifications LLC, could tell you where to get a good deal.
Or, Rock Krawler, in Green Island, NY, probably does gear installs or can tell you who does theirs. How about a 3 day weekend in beautiful Albany?
Add in hotel, food, travel and your way over your price tag again
I could go on. Not trying to argue. Maybe this even helps.
I know, I dont think we are arguing (just disagreeing slightly haha ) it does help though... thanks because I was over shooting and you were under shooting alot less then I was going over, which makes me realize its not as cheap as other places but its still not the price of a set of half doors from the factory
You said that you would consider a regear if you could do it for $1000 by yourself. Would you consider it for $1200 if a shop did it for you?[/QUOTE]
yes, but again in the end that 1200 would first got to snorkel, front stuby, winch, and head reduction hood, tints, and seat covers, sport cage (then gears...) pretty much (not in that order though but Gears are the last on the list still :(
and again this is just on my list... others have different opinions about it which is totally cool with me.
http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail....NSTALL&cat=277
Gear oil and RTV might be $50-$75
So, if you could do it yourself, it would be $450-$475. Not $1000.
but I cant :( zero tools zero experience and zero desire to get in to this kinda mods yet on my own
The install is rated as an 8-10 hour job. So, if you have a local 4x4 shop that is slow because of the economy, they would probably do it for about $800-$1000 in labor.
124$ a hour if your LUCKY! thats getting a deal so 1000$ - 1250$ in just labor :(
So, a total of $1200-$1500...even in New York.
off still
your right though not too too bad 1400ish - 1700ish total is not 2k
But, in New Jersey:
OK4WD.com in Stewartsville, NJ 08886, is probably less than a 2 hour drive from you. I would bet they would do it for $1200-$1500--parts, labor and fluids if you caught them on a day when their calendar was empty.
I dont know the place but if I decide to gear I will prob be finding out alot more about them
Or, in Staten Island, RIPP Modifications LLC, could tell you where to get a good deal.
Or, Rock Krawler, in Green Island, NY, probably does gear installs or can tell you who does theirs. How about a 3 day weekend in beautiful Albany?
Add in hotel, food, travel and your way over your price tag again
I could go on. Not trying to argue. Maybe this even helps.
I know, I dont think we are arguing (just disagreeing slightly haha
) it does help though... thanks because I was over shooting and you were under shooting alot less then I was going over, which makes me realize its not as cheap as other places but its still not the price of a set of half doors from the factory You said that you would consider a regear if you could do it for $1000 by yourself. Would you consider it for $1200 if a shop did it for you?[/QUOTE]
yes, but again in the end that 1200 would first got to snorkel, front stuby, winch, and head reduction hood, tints, and seat covers, sport cage (then gears...) pretty much (not in that order though but Gears are the last on the list still :(
and again this is just on my list... others have different opinions about it which is totally cool with me.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 1
From: Flyover Country
That's a shame, because gearing is probably the first thing JK owners should address. Don't feel badly though, you're in the majority with your planned progression of mods...
JK Jedi
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,931
Likes: 6
From: San Marcos, CA
planman nice write ups and great info! 
Funny thing about the auto and 4.10 ratio comment but in '07 the 4.10 gears came with the autos having the factory tow package. My wife is a long time chrysler owner and said it might be part of their decontenting
wouldn't surprise me, get less pay more in subsequent model years...
Forgot to mention in my earlier post that we have the ProCal something you must have if you regear...
Funny thing about the auto and 4.10 ratio comment but in '07 the 4.10 gears came with the autos having the factory tow package. My wife is a long time chrysler owner and said it might be part of their decontenting
wouldn't surprise me, get less pay more in subsequent model years...Forgot to mention in my earlier post that we have the ProCal something you must have if you regear...
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
for me I should have gotten a snorkel before I got 35's and a lift...
I hydrolocked my motor already (first five months of having her)
gears wouldn't have changed any of my trail mistakes or wish I hadda's
I should have went, snorkel, front stubby with winch, lift, tires, ect ect.
I still don't think I need gears (if I wheeled in Co. or I was a Az rock man I would be singing a different tune I am sure.)
But for what I do, the only mistake I have made in getting stuff was not getting a snorkel already or as the first mod flat out.
What on earth are you driving though?
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,769
Likes: 0
From: Coastal Bend
To be frank, it isn't the height mounted that matters. It isn't the height unmounted either. It is the circumference, and truthfully, that doesn't change between being mounted and unmounted. One revolution takes up the same amount of rubber, regardless of how much height you lose between putting the tire on and putting it to weight. Air it up to 45lbs, air it down to 10, and one revolution is the same, but the sidewall height is different. I wouldn't change the chart.
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: Draper, Utah.
To be frank, it isn't the height mounted that matters. It isn't the height unmounted either. It is the circumference, and truthfully, that doesn't change between being mounted and unmounted. One revolution takes up the same amount of rubber, regardless of how much height you lose between putting the tire on and putting it to weight. Air it up to 45lbs, air it down to 10, and one revolution is the same, but the sidewall height is different. I wouldn't change the chart.
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,017
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood, OH
There are definitely some assumptions I made with intent and purpose when making the chart. Over the weekend I'll update my chart to include some other numbers. What numbers you need for altitude adjustments, how grades effect hp needs, some tire sizing math so people can figure what they are going to end up with for actual diameters and a few other things that I'm too tired to figure out what they are.
I also just read a bunch of posts with people who are under geared but getting along. There are a lot of things that can make that work for people, and I myself would fall into that category. At the same time I can't help but think people are turning OD off to make their rigs work. Nothing at all wrong with that, and if I hadn't made it clear, the chart I made is for effectively working with OD engaged and or 6th gear for the manual owners.
For my rig, I wouldn't be able to get by with my gears with an automatic. I need to do the occasional downshifts before I bog down and I can see a hill coming before I get there. That's huge as I don't bog before I shift, and that is what is really painful for the automatic transmission owners, especially when they have the truly disheartening double kick down. That's something that you really want to avoid, and if turning OD off is an interim solution with larger tires I think that's a pretty good compromise.
I also just read a bunch of posts with people who are under geared but getting along. There are a lot of things that can make that work for people, and I myself would fall into that category. At the same time I can't help but think people are turning OD off to make their rigs work. Nothing at all wrong with that, and if I hadn't made it clear, the chart I made is for effectively working with OD engaged and or 6th gear for the manual owners.
For my rig, I wouldn't be able to get by with my gears with an automatic. I need to do the occasional downshifts before I bog down and I can see a hill coming before I get there. That's huge as I don't bog before I shift, and that is what is really painful for the automatic transmission owners, especially when they have the truly disheartening double kick down. That's something that you really want to avoid, and if turning OD off is an interim solution with larger tires I think that's a pretty good compromise.
Last edited by JPop; Aug 27, 2009 at 02:47 PM.
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 783
Likes: 3
From: Southeast
A lot of factors here. Some important, some not much.
"Tire Growth -- At speed the tire will grow. As the tire expands your final drive ratio changes. In effect the tire becomes a variable gear and part of your "transmission".
Probably not that important for street/offroad vehicles, but our Jeeps do have big heavy tires and that weight could be a factor as it's a lot of momentum.
Rollout = tire height X PI
Inflation pressure. A lot of us run way under the pressure that would be used for a F-250 crew cab!
Desert Rat of this forum gave us the proper way to measure last month:
"The old fashioned way, which works, to find the actual diameter, taking into account the sidewall bulge, is to mark the tire and the ground at it's contact point, roll the jeep forward 1 revolution, line the marks up and measure the distance it has rolled. Using the circumference formula Pd (3.14 x diameter) you divide the rolled distance by 3.14. This is your real diameter. "
It is a lot more accurate than using the tape measure to read static height.
However, a lot of us are getting good accurate numbers just measuring the tire height with a tape measure.
A simlar good tip from the smokemup website.
"A real accurate way to determine your tire diameter is to draw a line on the bottom of your tire, then draw a line on the ground which lines up with the line you just drew on your tire. Then move the car until the car makes one full rotation of the tire and mark the ground where the line on the tire is at the bottom again. Now measure the length between the two lines and divide by pi (3.14) and you'll have your tire diameter to use on the calculator (don't forget to use inches). This is the prefered method to use in determining your actual tire diameter. "
After messing around with it, I did find that using Toyo's revs per mile plugged into the formula I got a diameter of 33.85". I'm actually using 33.25" which is super accurate (confirmed with multiple GPS readings) but my Toyos do have 10K on them and I'd be willing to bet my pressure of 28lbs is a bit less than that used by Toyo in their testing.
I'll do a roll out measure one day, but I'm not that concerned with it, as 33.25" gives me a speedo reading within 1mph or less of the GPS unit.
I'm really interested in what Jpop and Planman do with this, as the chart is an invaluable resource, but so many factors come into play that a little instruction with it seems neccessary.
After having driven many Jeeps with different tire/gear/transmission setups, Planman and Jpop are right, no way an auto should come with less than 4.10 gears with any tire sizes.
And you guys with an auto, you really need to drive a 6 speed with 4.88 or 5.13 gears and 35/37" tires. When you put 4.88s in a auto trans Jeep, you have become equivalent to the 6-speed Jeeps with 4.10 gears as far as highway revs.
"Tire Growth -- At speed the tire will grow. As the tire expands your final drive ratio changes. In effect the tire becomes a variable gear and part of your "transmission".
Probably not that important for street/offroad vehicles, but our Jeeps do have big heavy tires and that weight could be a factor as it's a lot of momentum.
Rollout = tire height X PI
Inflation pressure. A lot of us run way under the pressure that would be used for a F-250 crew cab!
Desert Rat of this forum gave us the proper way to measure last month:
"The old fashioned way, which works, to find the actual diameter, taking into account the sidewall bulge, is to mark the tire and the ground at it's contact point, roll the jeep forward 1 revolution, line the marks up and measure the distance it has rolled. Using the circumference formula Pd (3.14 x diameter) you divide the rolled distance by 3.14. This is your real diameter. "
It is a lot more accurate than using the tape measure to read static height.
However, a lot of us are getting good accurate numbers just measuring the tire height with a tape measure.
A simlar good tip from the smokemup website.
"A real accurate way to determine your tire diameter is to draw a line on the bottom of your tire, then draw a line on the ground which lines up with the line you just drew on your tire. Then move the car until the car makes one full rotation of the tire and mark the ground where the line on the tire is at the bottom again. Now measure the length between the two lines and divide by pi (3.14) and you'll have your tire diameter to use on the calculator (don't forget to use inches). This is the prefered method to use in determining your actual tire diameter. "
After messing around with it, I did find that using Toyo's revs per mile plugged into the formula I got a diameter of 33.85". I'm actually using 33.25" which is super accurate (confirmed with multiple GPS readings) but my Toyos do have 10K on them and I'd be willing to bet my pressure of 28lbs is a bit less than that used by Toyo in their testing.
I'll do a roll out measure one day, but I'm not that concerned with it, as 33.25" gives me a speedo reading within 1mph or less of the GPS unit.
I'm really interested in what Jpop and Planman do with this, as the chart is an invaluable resource, but so many factors come into play that a little instruction with it seems neccessary.
After having driven many Jeeps with different tire/gear/transmission setups, Planman and Jpop are right, no way an auto should come with less than 4.10 gears with any tire sizes.
And you guys with an auto, you really need to drive a 6 speed with 4.88 or 5.13 gears and 35/37" tires. When you put 4.88s in a auto trans Jeep, you have become equivalent to the 6-speed Jeeps with 4.10 gears as far as highway revs.
Last edited by edwin907; Aug 27, 2009 at 06:27 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
San Antonio is about 600-700 feet above sea level.
If you are running 35s on 3.73 gears with an automatic, you would be doing about 1700 rpms at 70 mph. At those rpms, our engines produce less than 56 rear wheel horsepower. So, I doubt you could hold speed in the overdrive gear in San Antonio at 70 mph with 1700 rpms.
If you are running 35s on 3.73 gears with an automatic, you would be doing about 1700 rpms at 70 mph. At those rpms, our engines produce less than 56 rear wheel horsepower. So, I doubt you could hold speed in the overdrive gear in San Antonio at 70 mph with 1700 rpms.
I wonder if there is something else that I might not be factoring into the equation.