Here's a little proof lol. Second one she hates because she's pretty white looking lol... Yeah I gotcha on the forum-guy shit. Thanks for the compliment on the jeep, too!

 

Lmao I was joking but that's hilarious. I'm sure she would be thrilled to know the jeep forum is checking her out hahahah

 

Good riddance little girl.

 

And do you even know what shocks do? Do you really think blowing out a shock will leave you stranded? You must be half retarded. But we already established that I guess. I could run no shocks and still go down the trail you dipshit...yeah it would feel like shit and flop all over.....but it wouldn't strand me at all....lmfao

And dude, I can promise you I've wheeled the same shit you've done, and then some. This dick measuring contest style commenting you're doing is utterly pathetic. It's actually embarrassing, like I am embarrassed for you. Do you think about what you say before you say it? Or do you just lose your shit and frantically react and vomit out whatever comes to mind? That's what it sounds like you do. Immaturity at its finest

 

Your the dumb ass. The better the shock is vavled the faster you can run trails you idiot. I wasn't talking about you being stranded.

 

This dude has no clue. Don't bother you can't get into arguments with imbeciles, they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

He has no understanding of compressed and extended shock lengths. A 12" travel shock won't have the short compressed length of a stock 8" travel shock. That's why you need lift and extended bumpstops to get long travel.

Unless you want to run shitty metal joke shocks and replace leaky shocks every couple months. Good luck with that, lol

And good luck using his amazing newly created never seen before uptravel with 8" shocks, unless he changes all his shock mounts he can't run a long travel shock at stock height. He's doing stuff everyone else did 8 years ago and realized it didn't work on the trail. He thinks he is reinventing the wheel but is truly a dumbass...

OP: if you want to do something functional at stock height move your shock mounts and run more than 8" travel shocks, but you'll need to do a lot more cutting cause long travel throws off the clearances more than stock 8" shocks. After this figure out how to do a 3" tummy tuck. Now you'll have something capable with long travel suspension and more ground clearance at stock height. A sawsall to the body with a stock suspension is not innovative, lmao

 

Thank you Biginboca. For the backup.😄

 

False, I can actually do the same thing without shocks, again, you're an idiot. It might feel like shit but I can promise you the calving of the shock is only going to make it more comfortable and less dangerous, if you truly think that I will be physically limited in speed due to a shock you're an idiot. Yeah it will be rough with one shock vs the other but it doesn't give you some magical ability to go faster than someone with a lesser shock, just wow lmfao

Funny you need "backup"

 

Incorrect, I know exactly what I'm talking about and despite the imbecilic inferences you have taken from the conversation as a result of your little girl out of control emotions, I would be willing to bet I know more than you about suspensions and cars in general. You know nothing about me or my knowledge yet claim that I'm a dumbass and have no clue what I'm talking about, because your immature ass would prefer to skip over the relevant comments from me in order to facilitate your jackass viewpoint and comments, and like I said, based on everything else you're much too immature and prideful to admit your fault so I won't even begin to attempt to coax that out of you, some people are a lost cause. You are one of those people.

I have hand built cars from the ground up the suspension the motor the transmission all of it. So before you want to try and paint in me in an incorrect light get your facts straight sport.

I would love to single out everything in your moronic immature post, but I'm at work and can't do that at the moment. I'll try to go back when I have the time and explain to you why you are the idiot.

Essentially it comes down to you either ignoring parts of the conversation in order to continue to call me names like a child, or you are actually this unintelligent, and have read the other parts, and just are not bright enough to connect the dots. I'm sorry your mother raised an immature, emotionally unstable little girl. Coming into these forums and displaying it and berating others because you're unable to read or think, points out no ones ignorance and lack of understanding but yours

 

My first thought seeing this... again.... "I can't believe that this is still going on!?"


Here is something to ponder... if you will.

The stock suspension is designed to use the provided 32" tire and have up travel that will not hurt the body, and down travel that will not hurt the stock driveshafts. Those two things were the limiting factors to FCA, as clearly seen by the elongated ABS/brake lines and the use of bump stops to limit the up travel to a safe distance with no sway bar links in place. You can use all of the designed in travel possible with no threat to the car. You can toss your sway bars on the scrap pile and the car will still remain mechanically intact.

So, that said, and that being non-negotiable, this fellow put on 37" tires. He still has a stock JK. So his option was to add bump stop to limit up travel (32" to 37" is 2.5" from axle center line) by an additional 2.5" plus whatever may be needed based on the larger diameter/width tire hitting things that were not part of the OEM designs 32" tire, such as the outer edge of the flares, the pinch seam locations that were radiused for the 32" diameter profile... the things that he readily says that he has addressed.

So he lost nothing in up travel by his own words. I don't doubt this.
He also lost nothing in down travel. I do not doubt this.

He gained nothing in up travel over a stock JK/U, he made sure of that with his aggressive clearance cutting to make sure that he didn't lose anything.
He gained nothing (so far) in axle drop, as he still has stock length shocks and stock drive shafts.

He created a fully useable, stock level of articulation (full stock level of articulation, non impeded) on a non lifted JK with a +5" tire diameter.

He could not flex better than stock (yet) because the shock will still be at full collapse and at full extent at the same place it was when not clearance cut, and with 32" tires.

Should he go and set a 28" shock beside his stock shock (I use that 28" because I am running 28" shocks) he would quickly observe that the 28" shock has much more exposed piston at full extent, therefor it has far more downward drop.

He would then consider that the shock is not at the outside edge of the axle, so an inch of added shock is actually more than inch of added travel at the axle ends. So that 28" shock with what 2.5" longer extended length adds over 4" of drop over a stock shock. Maybe a bit more or less, I don't care to measure it out and find the moment arm ratio.

The same thing happens to the drop, the shock limits the up travel and is what you use to decide the proper bump stop.... but as mentioned above, it's not 1:1.

The 28" shock is longer overall compared to the stock shock, and yes, it is longer fully collapsed... but not as much as the gains of the fully extended measurement.

So on just the most basic level of understanding, you have to agree that my 28" shock, if bump stopped to just shy of full collapse..... has a longer total effective stroke or range of motion. My 28" shock, not counting moment arm pivot ratio, in and of itself will net a properly rigged Jeep more wheel travel. Add in the additional gains in both drop and raise from the pivot ratio, and you see that it has no choice but to far exceed the total range of motion with the factory shocks.

I hope that at least some of you get what I am saying. I'm not taking away from his method or attempting to passive/aggressively insult anyone here, but physics and engineering are pretty well established concepts in our world today. This is something you should be able to easily visualize.

Try this, hold a pencil/pen like and axle, it is horizontal. Use you pointer and middle finger to grasp the pencil at the approximat shock mount location, with an inch of pencil/pen extending out past your fingers. Now, as you pretend to move the "axle" (pencil) up and down one one side or the other, you see some amount of multiplier effect on the 1" ends sticking out past your fingers. The further you move the "axle" up or down from horizontal, the more dramatic the effect. That is your axle. Moving it further down on the right causes it to raise on the left even though the left fingers never moved. And you note that it moved down further than your fingers on the right. It gave you a double gain.

That is how a solid axle works. Your springs and shocks are not out at the edges. Your shock is the ultimate limiting factor up and down. You can not claim to have added anything in up or down motion while keeping the shock in the same location and keeping it at the same extended/compressed total length.

There is no wizardry at play here.

If it means that much to you, I have also built race cars, built 4x4 competition sled pulling trucks, I am an engineer at a nuclear facility, and I stayed at the Holiday Inn more than once. It likely impresses no one and adds nothing to my internet credentials. But, I speak truth to the best of my knowledge.