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5.13 gears

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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 04:28 AM
  #111  
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We are comparing two differents jeeps here...
The numbers that CJ7 is talking are really different from the planman table...
197 torque is at 4150rpm by planman table...

Regardless all of this, I changed my gears 15 days ago. I had 4.10, choosed 4.88... After reading a lot here, changed it to 5.13... All with 35s...

Now I hava another jeep... Comparing it the way it eas, now I have a drag racer that can travels 70mph with about 2500 and much less downshift... Before It downshifted to SECOND gear once in a while... For now the same mpg, but with a jeep that get up and go... With 4.10 it was get up and stand... My moms CRV (honda) was a lot stronger... WAS...

If I was buying again, 5.13 for sure!
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by planman

Stock tune torque specs on the dyno chart and spreadsheet above:

2000 rpm: 169

2500 rpm: 184

Or, with a regular Hypertech tune (you wouldn't use a premium tune if you were concerned about economy because it costs 10%+ more than regular):

2000 rpm: 182

2500 rpm: 193

How much torque is needed for a lifted, 5500 lbs 4 dr JK on 37s to push it up a mile highway grade with wind drag at 70 mph without frequent downshifting?

Another issue is that doing a gear comparison with a Viper TB on the JK messes it up. Few will ever spend the $ and time to switch out TB's. They regear and do a tuner--unless their model year doesn't have an available tuner like the '11s and they are stuck with the stock tune.

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So basically you are failing to take into account you can get the same torque at 2200 rpm on hi octane tune with a viper tb as what you list above at 2500 rpm yet you still continue to argue and fail to see the numbers for torque are essentially the same but can be achieved at a lower rpm.

Now, if that 193 lbs of torque can maintain highway speed, it can maintain that speed, regardless of rpm. Why is this so difficult to comprehend?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #113  
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Default It can't do that

is what I'm being told by 1 board member. It doesn't have the power to do that.....you can't do that.





This is on my daily drive to work and it does just fine. No gear hunting at all. It will downshift from time to time but that is what an automatic transmision is designed to do. Shifting is acceptable as long as it is not excessive.

BTW, please take note of the green marking on the tach. You will notice solid green up to about 2K RPM? Above 2000 RPM you will notice that it becomes intermittent. At 2500 RPM it completely goes away.

Ya think that may have something to do with efficiency and fuel economy? Looks to me that it is most efficient BELOW 2200 rpm. What did I say in an earlier thread about the designers wanting to keep RPM around 1900-2200? Oh ya, I did say that, didn't I?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by JPop
3.73s OD off is nearly identical to 5.38s at cruise speeds. If that's what feels comfortable to you, it would be a good fit. If it feels too steep, you can back off to 5.13s. I don't advise anyone to jump into a gear set without first getting their new tires on and getting their speedometer calibrated. From there you can make a conscious decision of what the right fit is for you simply by turning OD on and off. 6 speed owners can hone in a little tighter because of the closer gear ratio. You can collect the data without a gear change, enter in the all important butt meter measurements, note your efficiency and chart what makes sense with a little math.

There certainly isn't one size fits all answers, and that's why I built out the charts as I did. The single caveat in all of this is that lower rpms don't always equate to better efficiency, which given the wide spread of automatic transmission ratios places greater emphasis on having the ability to hold gear.
So, I have a question in regards to this first statement. if I went up to 35"s, and I maintained stock gearing (I have a sahara JKU with 4.10's in it cause of max tow) why would I regear if I can just turn OD off and get the same feeling? I'm not exactly sure how OD works, so if someone could go into a bit more detail as to what the difference is with OD on and off with the same RPMs.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 03:38 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by planman
We are talking about wind drag and about pushing a 5500 lbs JK down the road at 70-75 mph, with cross winds and inclines. The JK doesn't produce enough power to do that at 1600 rpm without gear hunting.


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I agree. I NEVER said you could acheive 70+ mph at 1600 rpm though.

Are you able to see what I am talking about regarding torque now?

Oh, ad btw, my speedo has never been recalibrated after putting on the Rubi take offs so you can actually figure out how fast I was going with the speedo reading and difference between the 29" stockers and 31" Rubi take offs.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by CJ7nvrstk
I agree. I NEVER said you could acheive 70+ mph at 1600 rpm though.

Are you able to see what I am talking about regarding torque now?

Oh, ad btw, my speedo has never been recalibrated after putting on the Rubi take offs so you can actually figure out how fast I was going with the speedo reading and difference between the 29" stockers and 31" Rubi take offs.
So you FINALLY admit that your argument only pertains to 50 mph hwy speed fairy land and not real world hwy speeds?!?! Pretty sure you knew you were off-base from the get go. I have a 2 dr. X with 3.73's and tires that measure 30.75" (Rubi take-off BFG's as well) and the stock gears DO NOT CUT THE CHEESE going down the road battling head winds and grade changes. How can you argue that the factory gearing paired with the 3.8 is adequate? It's not. Doesn't work. Plain and simple.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #117  
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My whole gear hunting problem doesn't even occure until I get close to 70mph. I have a 07 with 4.10s and 35s that measure 34.25". If I have my overdrive "ON" as soon as I approach 70mph she starts shifting down. It bothered the crap out of me not to mention killed my gas mileage. Now this was pre-supercharger. Not the same now. I used to have to run with my OD off all the time. I had to otherwise the JK was constantly trying to shift down. Just cruizing at 55mph was a breeze. No issues period but as soon as you have more wind resistance that tranny is going to start hunting. I have a set of 5.13s sitting in the house waiting for the install. I need to hurry up and make that happen.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 02:23 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by scamp_71
So you FINALLY admit that your argument only pertains to 50 mph hwy speed fairy land and not real world hwy speeds?!?! Pretty sure you knew you were off-base from the get go. I have a 2 dr. X with 3.73's and tires that measure 30.75" (Rubi take-off BFG's as well) and the stock gears DO NOT CUT THE CHEESE going down the road battling head winds and grade changes. How can you argue that the factory gearing paired with the 3.8 is adequate? It's not. Doesn't work. Plain and simple.
WHAT? You have missed the boat! In fact you are not even close to the ocean.

I have said all along that 4.88s will get the job done just as well as 5.13s.

I have NEVER said factory gearing is adequate for anything other than a stock size tire. So please reread what I have posted. Look at the math as well and you should see what I am saying.

Please don't go and try to C&P things I have said in various posts to refute what I have posted here. That is very disingeuous and deceitful. You can make it appear as though a person said just about anything. You can make it appear as though I love obama, which is far from the truth. If I had wanted to play those games, I would have posted an old quote from Planman where he states you should go with 4.56 gears and 35" tires. Now, I know he has changed his stance on that since he is now telling peeps to put 5.13 gears (or lower) with only 33" tires, which I think is absurd. I didn't post that because I have more integrity than that, unlike others.

BTW, that torque figure I mentioned earlier is withing the margin of error of the dyno so don't try to say that that difference of a couple ft/lbs would really make a difference.

And yes, my factory gearing with the Rubi take offs is fine. It will cruise at 55 and at 70+ without gear hunting. Remember, it's the gear hunting that is bad, not the occassional downshift.

With the 37" tires I am saying that 4.88s would be fine. 5-75 mph. Again, look at the torque numbers. Almost forgot, you can actually bump it up a hair cuz I had the K&N cleaner on too, again, making those torque figures virtually IDENTICAL! Hope that helps you (and others) find the boat. BTW, my boat isn't captained by Capt Schettino though some would like you to believe that. Mainly the guy who thinks he knows more than chrysler and claims to have more resources than them.

Furthermore, if you look around a bit, you will find that Eddie has posted stock gears with juice tranny and 33s is fine.

Last edited by CJ7nvrstk; Jan 25, 2012 at 02:52 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 05:30 AM
  #119  
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[QUOTE=CJ7nvrstk;2811084] I have NEVER said factory gearing is adequate for anything other than a stock size tire. So please reread what I have posted. Look at the math as well and you should see what I am saying. [QUOTE]

And I'm saying that factory gearing IS NOT adequate even with stock tire size during "real world" commuting. In your fairy hwy land of perfectly flat, zero drag vacuum bubble, 50 mph speeds I could certainly maintain 50 mph and even 70 mph without gear hunting, BUT, how often do all the stars align and lay forth this dream scenario??? Rarely, if ever.

Last edited by scamp_71; Jan 25, 2012 at 05:34 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 05:59 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by CJ7nvrstk

I love obama
I knew it!
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