5.13 gears
My head hurts after reading all this.
All I know is my 37s and 5.38s have way more power than my 37s and 5.13s. I am so glad I went to the 5.38s. It down shifts less on hills and pulls much better. Ive only had the 5.38s for a few weeks, so Im not sure how the mileage has been affected. Mine is an auto. I couldnt be more happy with the 5.38s, unless I had a 6.4 hemi and that wont happen until the Jeep is paid off.
All I know is my 37s and 5.38s have way more power than my 37s and 5.13s. I am so glad I went to the 5.38s. It down shifts less on hills and pulls much better. Ive only had the 5.38s for a few weeks, so Im not sure how the mileage has been affected. Mine is an auto. I couldnt be more happy with the 5.38s, unless I had a 6.4 hemi and that wont happen until the Jeep is paid off.
Was entertained by the the amusing pokes back & forth, but more so liked the back ups being presented in the debate. Have a 2010 JKU Rubi factory loaded with no mods that I'm trading for a 2012 JKU that's on order. Do plan on on a small lift & bigger tires so have followed this thread with interest. Even with stock tires the 2010 with auto & 410 gears does to much shifting for my taste at freeway speed, but fine else wise. The big differences with the new motor & trans in the 2012 has been a challenge to sort out whats best for me between the 373 & the 410 now. With the very slick Wyoming winter roads run the 32 inch 255/75/17 blizzaks in the winter & will continue to do so with the new 2012. Want only a minimal lift to run 33 km2 255/80/17 or 285/70/17 in the summer & to help some over the rocks, so to stay in what I think is the sweet spot for me from many hours of reading threads here have changed my order from 410 to 373.
Last edited by WY-JK10; Jan 25, 2012 at 10:36 AM.
Originally Posted by planman
Stock tune torque specs on the dyno chart and spreadsheet above:
2000 rpm: 169
2500 rpm: 184
Or, with a regular Hypertech tune (you wouldn't use a premium tune if you were concerned about economy because it costs 10%+ more than regular):
2000 rpm: 182
2500 rpm: 193
How much torque is needed for a lifted, 5500 lbs 4 dr JK on 37s to push it up a mile highway grade with wind drag at 70 mph without frequent downshifting?
Another issue is that doing a gear comparison with a Viper TB on the JK messes it up. Few will ever spend the $ and time to switch out TB's. They regear and do a tuner--unless their model year doesn't have an available tuner like the '11s and they are stuck with the stock tune.
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Wish I had time to respond to this. There needs to be clarity on torque, and the rate that torque is applied (horsepower).
Especially like the putzing around at 50mph. Truly comical and I've already spoke of the exponentially increasing drag with speed.
And still unwilling to respond to the previous absurd statement that does wonders for credibility.
Last edited by CJ7nvrstk; Jan 26, 2012 at 02:13 AM.
Attachment 269916
I can take pics too. Looks like similar rpm/mph to the previously posted pic. Difference is, this is with 5.38 gears and 315/70-17 tires. Without the gears, my rpm's would not be enough to maintain any kind of speed.
I can take pics too. Looks like similar rpm/mph to the previously posted pic. Difference is, this is with 5.38 gears and 315/70-17 tires. Without the gears, my rpm's would not be enough to maintain any kind of speed.
Oh, and btw, you're rpm is several hundred rpm higher than what I posted. Yours also is lifted, further increasing drag, has increased rolling resistance r/t heavier tires and increased drag, and also note that your ECO indicator is not on while mine is, so simply.... that dog don't hunt.
Totally different comparison. Please return to the area where I was discussing 1900-2200 rpm as optimal for cruising.
The differences in opinions on gearing is kind of interesting. For some people the stock setup is inadequate and the 3.8 is too weak and slow. Yet for me (stock 3.21s and stock 32s...I think they measure to a 31) I have no complaints at all. I can drive to work and theres only one steep hill where it will downshift to make it up. The rest I can ease on the gas a little bit without it downshifting and keeping the 55 speed limit. And if i'm driving say 45 and want to accelerate to 55 I can do it without downshifting. Just easing onto the gas is enough. Yet theres people that say they can't do that. Maybe it's because i'm the type thats not in a hurry tailgating the guy in front of me and passing everyone.
I still don't know what gears I will end up getting for 35's
I still don't know what gears I will end up getting for 35's

So, it's basically what works for you.






