AEV fron bumper install time?
I didn't install the crush cans. The winch if installed at the time of the bumper takes maybe an extra 5 minutes. It is just 4 bolts for the winch, and 2 for the fairlead then route the wiring. The instructions detail trimming of the horn on the end of the frame rail, but on the 08 jk this is not needed for the 9.5ti at least.
For a shop to do this they are required to cut the crush cans. Also there are a lot of components to this bumper compared to just 8 bolts. You need to drill 6 1/2" holes for the tow hooks (and 6 bolts), trim one of the ends of a frame rail, I think the bumper had 12 bolts, and 4 more for the winch mount. AEV has said it takes them at least 4-5 hours to do this, and for the employees they have doing this the first time they plan a full 8 hours.
I took my time with mine and did it over 2 days taking ym time to carefully align everything. The people saying no more than 2 hours probably have not installed one of these bumpers, so I would take their opinion for a grain of salt.
I took my time with mine and did it over 2 days taking ym time to carefully align everything. The people saying no more than 2 hours probably have not installed one of these bumpers, so I would take their opinion for a grain of salt.
I did mine in a day, probably about 6 hours.
It was a lot more involved than I thought, but luckily I had all the tools for the cutting, etc.
Look through the instructions and if you have all the tools and a weekend to spare, you can do it yourself. Especially if you don't have to monkey around with a winch.
Just my .02
It was a lot more involved than I thought, but luckily I had all the tools for the cutting, etc.
Look through the instructions and if you have all the tools and a weekend to spare, you can do it yourself. Especially if you don't have to monkey around with a winch.
Just my .02
If you are going to do it yourself, I have a couple of comments observations.
I took mine off today after being on about a 18 months .....
Here is what I found.
1. The crush can edges were pretty rusted, I should have done a better job of painting them.
2. The plastic covers that cover the crush cans had about a 1/2 inch of water trapped in them. I would highly recommend drilling a couple of 1/8" drain holes in them to get rid of the trapped water.
3. The 6"x4"x1/2" (LxHxW) spacers that are on the ends of the frame rails were pretty rusted and the paint was peeling. I think these were stock pieces that need better finishing.
4. The eight stainless allen bolts that attach the shell of the bumper to the end caps of the frame rails use a nut that has squashed threads (for locking). What a pain in the ass to get off. Not only do you scratch the bumper paint when removing, in my opinion way overkill, the nuts will not be returning. Also the bolts are atleast 1" longer than necessary, which causes much more work than necessary getting those damn lock nuts off!! I will use some decent grade 8 lock nuts/lockwasher/flatwasher for reassembly, and maybe some anti seize.
5. The scratches around the allen bolts will be covered with a thick black plastic washer yet to be determined.
6. The other bolts on the bumper were pretty oxidized, (winch bolts etc.) no bolts go back on unless they are zinc plated (like most grade 8's I've seen) or stainless.
7. The bolts holding the synthetic rope fairlead (the fairlead is aluminum) are suffering from severe electrolysis or galvanic corrosion. The white dust crap all over the bolts. Not sure what to do here, I think this is a dissimilar metal issue. Probably will go with s/s or grade 8 hardware here also.
I took mine off today after being on about a 18 months .....
Here is what I found.
1. The crush can edges were pretty rusted, I should have done a better job of painting them.
2. The plastic covers that cover the crush cans had about a 1/2 inch of water trapped in them. I would highly recommend drilling a couple of 1/8" drain holes in them to get rid of the trapped water.
3. The 6"x4"x1/2" (LxHxW) spacers that are on the ends of the frame rails were pretty rusted and the paint was peeling. I think these were stock pieces that need better finishing.
4. The eight stainless allen bolts that attach the shell of the bumper to the end caps of the frame rails use a nut that has squashed threads (for locking). What a pain in the ass to get off. Not only do you scratch the bumper paint when removing, in my opinion way overkill, the nuts will not be returning. Also the bolts are atleast 1" longer than necessary, which causes much more work than necessary getting those damn lock nuts off!! I will use some decent grade 8 lock nuts/lockwasher/flatwasher for reassembly, and maybe some anti seize.
5. The scratches around the allen bolts will be covered with a thick black plastic washer yet to be determined.
6. The other bolts on the bumper were pretty oxidized, (winch bolts etc.) no bolts go back on unless they are zinc plated (like most grade 8's I've seen) or stainless.
7. The bolts holding the synthetic rope fairlead (the fairlead is aluminum) are suffering from severe electrolysis or galvanic corrosion. The white dust crap all over the bolts. Not sure what to do here, I think this is a dissimilar metal issue. Probably will go with s/s or grade 8 hardware here also.
If your flush with cash, which you probably are not after spending $2500 bucks on a bumper/skidplate/winch ..... I would take them up on it, otherwise it is very doable on your own, just may take a bit longer, (at least for me)


