Ball Joints AGAIN
I certainly hope not. I dont wanna pay for a bent knuckle and all my driving has been street lately. I'm hoping its just a ball joint I'll keep u posted u to the same.
Also to check my tie rod and drag link does the Jeep need to be jacked up like when you check the ball joints at the wheels?
And finally what do the control arms look like and how can you tell if they are bad?
Also to check my tie rod and drag link does the Jeep need to be jacked up like when you check the ball joints at the wheels?
And finally what do the control arms look like and how can you tell if they are bad?
Last edited by Hellbound13; Dec 15, 2008 at 03:19 PM.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/aev-lift-shock-relocation-63103/
Just look at the first picture. The "C" shape on the right is what they are talking about. On Solid front axle vehicles this is what makes the camber NOT adjustable, if its bent your out of camber. No really true fix that is worthy as far as research suggests anyway.
Good luck.
Oh and BTW, Steering wheel alignment is a must to ensure no esp, etc issues and "toe" is always adjustable, as camber will NOT effect toe, just how your tires tread meets the road.
Someone can correct or add to this info if need be.
Just look at the first picture. The "C" shape on the right is what they are talking about. On Solid front axle vehicles this is what makes the camber NOT adjustable, if its bent your out of camber. No really true fix that is worthy as far as research suggests anyway.
Good luck.
Oh and BTW, Steering wheel alignment is a must to ensure no esp, etc issues and "toe" is always adjustable, as camber will NOT effect toe, just how your tires tread meets the road.
Someone can correct or add to this info if need be.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63103
Just look at the first picture. The "C" shape on the right is what they are talking about. On Solid front axle vehicles this is what makes the camber NOT adjustable, if its bent your out of camber. No really true fix that is worthy as far as research suggests anyway.
Good luck.
Oh and BTW, Steering wheel alignment is a must to ensure no esp, etc issues and "toe" is always adjustable, as camber will NOT effect toe, just how your tires tread meets the road.
Someone can correct or add to this info if need be.
Just look at the first picture. The "C" shape on the right is what they are talking about. On Solid front axle vehicles this is what makes the camber NOT adjustable, if its bent your out of camber. No really true fix that is worthy as far as research suggests anyway.
Good luck.
Oh and BTW, Steering wheel alignment is a must to ensure no esp, etc issues and "toe" is always adjustable, as camber will NOT effect toe, just how your tires tread meets the road.
Someone can correct or add to this info if need be.
Well mine looks just like that, although I guess if it was off a little it would be undectable to the eye anyway. Anyway, dealer Thursday and then back to the tire shop. I also got hubcentric rings I need them to put on, which might help with the vibrations at least.
Im still wondering about my above question though on the tie rod/drag link and control arms.
I certainly hope not. I dont wanna pay for a bent knuckle and all my driving has been street lately. I'm hoping its just a ball joint I'll keep u posted u to the same.
Also to check my tie rod and drag link does the Jeep need to be jacked up like when you check the ball joints at the wheels?
And finally what do the control arms look like and how can you tell if they are bad?
Also to check my tie rod and drag link does the Jeep need to be jacked up like when you check the ball joints at the wheels?
And finally what do the control arms look like and how can you tell if they are bad?
The control arms run from the frame to the axle. Just check for play or visibly damaged bushings. In the referenced picture I posted, the control arm would be the bar running from the foreground to the axle, just left of the shock.
To check the tie rod and drag link? You mean the ends? No the Jeep doesn't have to be lifted to check these. They will rotate a little but shouldn't be loose if pull/pushing from driver side to passenger side.
The control arms run from the frame to the axle. Just check for play or visibly damaged bushings. In the referenced picture I posted, the control arm would be the bar running from the foreground to the axle, just left of the shock.
The control arms run from the frame to the axle. Just check for play or visibly damaged bushings. In the referenced picture I posted, the control arm would be the bar running from the foreground to the axle, just left of the shock.
Visual inspection. and you can try to wiggle them and see if there is an obvious give. Mine don't budge at all. If you look at the joint you could see if the rubber bushing is squezed out or visually damaged.
http://www.streetperformance.com/par...018-23540.html
...and according to this page, there are several different part numbers.
http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...all-joint.html
Last edited by RedneckJeep; Dec 16, 2008 at 05:18 AM.
According to this chart, yes, someone makes them. There's a part number and all. I find it hard to believe all of those applications use the same part number, but I guess it's possible. That's the way I'm reading the chart. How bout you?
http://www.streetperformance.com/par...018-23540.html
...and according to this page, there are several different part numbers.
http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...all-joint.html
http://www.streetperformance.com/par...018-23540.html
...and according to this page, there are several different part numbers.
http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...all-joint.html



