BAS, ESP & ABS warning lights
I drove like this for about 3 weeks. I retorqued all my suspension bolts numerous times. Checked the centering with my procal several times. I even had the dealership check my wheel sensors while I was in for my 21k mile service. They could figure out what was wrong and said they would order me a Dynamic sensor.
Well i finally figured out what the problem was on my own. When I installed my **** along with my Dominion Offroad compressor mount, the bolt/screw that also holds down the ECU wasn't long enough to synch down. Now there is also a ground wire that attaches to that bolt. Because if the lack of a ground, my ECU was acting squirely and shutting down the esp/abs/traction control. If your cruise control works then it's not the wheel sensor. If the alignment and your steering wheel is strait check that ground.
Well i finally figured out what the problem was on my own. When I installed my **** along with my Dominion Offroad compressor mount, the bolt/screw that also holds down the ECU wasn't long enough to synch down. Now there is also a ground wire that attaches to that bolt. Because if the lack of a ground, my ECU was acting squirely and shutting down the esp/abs/traction control. If your cruise control works then it's not the wheel sensor. If the alignment and your steering wheel is strait check that ground.
I drove like this for about 3 weeks. I retorqued all my suspension bolts numerous times. Checked the centering with my procal several times. I even had the dealership check my wheel sensors while I was in for my 21k mile service. They could figure out what was wrong and said they would order me a Dynamic sensor.
Well i finally figured out what the problem was on my own. When I installed my **** along with my Dominion Offroad compressor mount, the bolt/screw that also holds down the ECU wasn't long enough to synch down. Now there is also a ground wire that attaches to that bolt. Because if the lack of a ground, my ECU was acting squirely and shutting down the esp/abs/traction control. If your cruise control works then it's not the wheel sensor. If the alignment and your steering wheel is strait check that ground.
Well i finally figured out what the problem was on my own. When I installed my **** along with my Dominion Offroad compressor mount, the bolt/screw that also holds down the ECU wasn't long enough to synch down. Now there is also a ground wire that attaches to that bolt. Because if the lack of a ground, my ECU was acting squirely and shutting down the esp/abs/traction control. If your cruise control works then it's not the wheel sensor. If the alignment and your steering wheel is strait check that ground.
thanks for the info! Do you happen to have a picture of the ground wire that you are talking about? Or even possible a description of where it is and such. I haven't checked my cruise control,,,will try and do that tomorrow,,,shot a match today and am too beat to move, and that usually carries over to the next three days, thanks to Lupus!
In the pic, it's right in the center of the pic:
well the cruise control was indeed not working. I tried it while on the way to advanced for the code reading. They were actually really cool about hooking it up and getting the code for me. The code came out as B1020 Left rear wheel steering sensor circuit. The word circuit bothered me, and he said that it could in fact be a relay circuit, but it also might just be the way that the sensor code "reads" when the sensor goes to crap. Fingers crossed that it is only the sensor, and replacing it will be what I need to do.
Wish me luck,,,,we're goin' in!
Wish me luck,,,,we're goin' in!
For what it's worth:
I ripped my front driver ESP cable off last wheeling trip, lit up the dash like all of you are saying, but it drove fine. There is just no ESP or abs control by the computer.
It did not rip out of the hub, the connector behind the front shock mount unplugged. It was a b$&@ to get at with a flamming hot manifold. I had to clean the connection to get it plugged back in (got mud in it) but that did not make the light go away. I had to use my superchips flashpaq to read the code and clear it. All has been well since then.
As a note, the cable on the 07 and early 08s are shorter than those you buy now from the dealer.
Like I said, for what it's worth. Hope that helps someone.
I ripped my front driver ESP cable off last wheeling trip, lit up the dash like all of you are saying, but it drove fine. There is just no ESP or abs control by the computer.
It did not rip out of the hub, the connector behind the front shock mount unplugged. It was a b$&@ to get at with a flamming hot manifold. I had to clean the connection to get it plugged back in (got mud in it) but that did not make the light go away. I had to use my superchips flashpaq to read the code and clear it. All has been well since then.
As a note, the cable on the 07 and early 08s are shorter than those you buy now from the dealer.
Like I said, for what it's worth. Hope that helps someone.
For what it's worth:
I ripped my front driver ESP cable off last wheeling trip, lit up the dash like all of you are saying, but it drove fine. There is just no ESP or abs control by the computer.
It did not rip out of the hub, the connector behind the front shock mount unplugged. It was a b$&@ to get at with a flamming hot manifold. I had to clean the connection to get it plugged back in (got mud in it) but that did not make the light go away. I had to use my superchips flashpaq to read the code and clear it. All has been well since then.
As a note, the cable on the 07 and early 08s are shorter than those you buy now from the dealer.
Like I said, for what it's worth. Hope that helps someone.
I ripped my front driver ESP cable off last wheeling trip, lit up the dash like all of you are saying, but it drove fine. There is just no ESP or abs control by the computer.
It did not rip out of the hub, the connector behind the front shock mount unplugged. It was a b$&@ to get at with a flamming hot manifold. I had to clean the connection to get it plugged back in (got mud in it) but that did not make the light go away. I had to use my superchips flashpaq to read the code and clear it. All has been well since then.
As a note, the cable on the 07 and early 08s are shorter than those you buy now from the dealer.
Like I said, for what it's worth. Hope that helps someone.
Last edited by jerseyjeepgurl; Oct 25, 2011 at 10:01 AM.
Originally Posted by jerseyjeepgurl
But what of the Rear Left Code coming up,,,,,,I looked and "pulled" on the wires and they SEEM like they are in there pretty solid,,,,,,,,should I take the flat head screw driver and unhook the plug to see if it's just dirty? I don't want to break the thing, and have my husband come home,,,,,and think that I was the one that broke the darn thing (those red clips are a stinker to move). Don't get me wrong,,,I am GREAT with electronics, I have fixed my dishwasher twice and my stove three time, and can build a computer like nobodies business,,,,,but, when it comes to the Jeep,,,,,,sorry but you know how guys are with "women fixing mechanic" issues,,,,,,,,kinda like a caveman
When I re plugged it in and cleared the code, all was good.
Tho now that I think about it, the red tab wasn't there
guess when it yanked the tab snapped off. Oh well haha
I spent the 20 bucks and ordered the part,,,,,if the most I lose is 20 bucks,,,,,,its cool. At least this way when we start to pull things off, and its needed or not,,,then we are at least safe by having the part in hand.
I think I'm more worried about the word "Circuit" and the fact that its a "B" code not a "C" code,,,,,,any ideas?
I think I'm more worried about the word "Circuit" and the fact that its a "B" code not a "C" code,,,,,,any ideas?


