+1000

"While almost every current passenger car is capable of a single stop from maximum speed at or near the limit of tire adhesion, the braking systems of most passenger vehicles and light trucks and some sports cars are not adequate for hard driving or for towing. Most stock brake systems lack sufficient thermal capacity; the system's ability to absorb and transfer heat by conduction, convection and radiation into the air or surrounding structure during severe driving. In addition, many stock calipers and their mountings are structurally not stiff enough at higher line pressures and the resultant higher clamping loads."

With a larger tire it has less revolution but you gain more travel out of a larger and heaver tire. Which would exceed the stoping limits of the factory brakes. Common since. Here is another quote.

"The brakes don't stop the vehicle, the tires do. The brakes slow the rotation of the wheels and tires. This means that braking distance measured on a single stop from a highway legal speed or higher is almost totally dependent upon the stopping ability of the tires in use, which, in the case of aftermarket advertising, may or may not be the ones originally fitted to the car by the OE manufacturer."

These two quotes are from superstreet. Big brake kits FTW!

 

What is the pad with this kit like in regards to dust, fade, squeal and availibity of replacment options?

 

Those TF brakes are freekin awesome!

 

Ok, Ill give my racing experience and opinion on larger brakes for those wondering if this is a good thing or not.

First off, one of the above posters is right, many times in an emergency stop braking is tire limited. The braking force is more limited by tire adhesion than the ability of the brakes to grab and stop the rotor and the ABS modulates this process.

However,

With larger tires, wider 35s or 37s you have much softer and wider tire with better adhesion, more weight and thus much more mass to slow down. The brake rotor is an energy or heat sink. Its job it to transfer kinetic energy to heat energy and dissapate it into the air. A larger rotor is just better becasue there is more mass to put heat energy into. With the added limit of adhesion before skidding of a larger tire you are now able to use a rotor/ pad combo that is capable of generating more torque with out causing skid or ABS activation. The larger diameter rotor just generated more braking torque and more mass stores more heat. this also helps reduce fade from heat soak.

In my opiniion, those with much bigger tires, this should be a very worth wile brake upgrade. I would use a good DOT4 fluid and a good pad. Avoid any drilled rotors and if you want slotting may help but on a jeep is probably unnessary. I use slotted rotors on my race car to help off gassing and keep the pads clean. Many just use solid rotors.

Don't bother doing the cryo thing, does nothing to grey Iron. Heat stress relieving on a brake dyno is of some benifit on a race car but not in our application.

I won't elaborate more here but I will eventually buy this upgrade for my jeep. Maybe a good christmass present especially for the price quoted.

Cheers

Jeff

 

On the stock tires I would think these could really come in handy where you apply more braking and there is less airflow to transfer the heat. I know that with my 4:1 transfer case gearing my brakes aren't nearly as effective as on the highway.

 

Christmas 2010 maybe. These aren't available until March 2010.

 

The pads are interchangeable with a 2009 Dodge 1500 4x4 so replacements should be no problem. The pad we manufacture uses a hi-performance blend so it has better stopping power than a factory pad. The rotor is interchangeable with the J8 (Export JK) so they are a bit harder to acquire. We manufacture the rotor and drill the dual pattern for JKs 5h on 5" and also 5h on 5.5" so that will make it easy to find.

 

What did the rotor come from? Also what is the piston area on the new caliper and how much bigger is it than the stock piston(s)?

 

I agree with everything you say. I personally would not run something like a 37x13.50 Toyo MTs without increasing the rotor size.

Those tires weight twice as much as the stock ones and increase the wheel radius by almost 10% which increases the rotational moment by the square of that quantity.
There is always a safety margin engineered in parts designed at the factory, but they are usually not 200%.

So why aren't the rotors cross drilled?

 

Slotted and vented seem to be the important ones, cross drills are more of a week point thats an easy source for cracking than a pivotal upgrade to defeating brake fade.