Death Wobble AGAIN!!!
Ok here are the pics of the passenger side. Swaybar links are brand new for a 3inch lift all put on when the trackbar was put on. Thick grade 8 heavy duty washers on the trackbar bracket already front and back so the holes are not worn out. We are trying everything with no luck. He is going to retighten everything today again. Thanks again !!
I know what you mean about the death grip on the steering wheel white knuckles and all
Also we already adjusted the steering when the trackbar was put on too.
Attachment 187827Attachment 187826Attachment 187825Attachment 187824Attachment 187828
I know what you mean about the death grip on the steering wheel white knuckles and all
Also we already adjusted the steering when the trackbar was put on too.Attachment 187827Attachment 187826Attachment 187825Attachment 187824Attachment 187828
ok a few questions :
1.---- when the Trackbar was installed, was the jeep under its own weight sitting on the ground and then torqued ?
2.---- When the lift was installed, did the installers loosen all the control arm bolts and then re-torque them once the jeep was under it's own weight sitting on the ground when they finished the install ?
some people install a lift and without loosening the control arms bolts front and back (all 8 ) and then drive it, this puts the control arm bushings in a bind and sometimes twists them up. leaving the bushings in the stock position after a lift will cause problems and the rig will not drive right ( flighty feeling).
3.---- did you notice if the DW occurs when the passenger side front wheel hits a bump/pothole/RR tracks first ?
also,check your mileage compared to others here on the forum and their ball joint issues.
When you guys start re-torquing everything today......make sure the rig is on the ground.....lossen the trackbar bolts top and bottom and have someone bounce the front end of the rig up and down a few times ( i got on my bumper and did this) then re-torque the bolts to 125-130 FT.LBS. after 100 miles re-torque and again at 500 miles. if you loosen all the control arms bounce the front and rear then re-torque, and then do the trackbar. good luck
Our DW started right after we rotated our tires. We had the rancho stabilzer. We went thru and tightened everything and still DW. Our DW was around 40mph and would not stop until the car stopped, it was a scary feeling. The only thing we could think of is rotate the tires back and the DW seemed to be gone. We went ahead and changed the stabilzer to a fox one. It helped alot in the handling of the car no more steering wheel bounce when you hit a small road bump. We are thinking that one of the tires is bad. The other choice we have is.... we now have 33's and we need to go to a heavier tire. ORW recommended 35" tires for the 3" inch lift. I hope our DW does not return.
I run 37s with a 4.5" lift. I had DW start a few months after I installed everything. I checked and rechecked everything. I took it to two 4x4 alignment shops. Everything checked out, but I still had it. Finally I had all 4 tires DYNAMICALLY balanced (not spin balanced). That cured it. Has not come back. If you elect to try this, make sure the shop knows what they are doing. I would ask if they have a Hunter Engineering Road Force balancing machine. You will end up with wheel weights on the inside and the outside of the wheel, but its a small price to pay IMO.
Best of luck.
PS. I doubt the sway bar has anything to do with it. You want the sway bar near horizontal so the links don't reverse when you go to full droop.
Best of luck.
PS. I doubt the sway bar has anything to do with it. You want the sway bar near horizontal so the links don't reverse when you go to full droop.
From the looks of it in the 2nd picture, it appears that the passenger side upper contol arm bushing on the axle is fairly dry-rotted. It could be that these bushings are worn out/rotted enough to cause the DW. Remove the UCA and use a long pry bar to move the bushing around to see how much deflection/movement there is in the bushing.
Ok here are the pics of the passenger side. Swaybar links are brand new for a 3inch lift all put on when the trackbar was put on. Thick grade 8 heavy duty washers on the trackbar bracket already front and back so the holes are not worn out. We are trying everything with no luck. He is going to retighten everything today again. Thanks again !!
I know what you mean about the death grip on the steering wheel white knuckles and all
Also we already adjusted the steering when the trackbar was put on too.
Attachment 187827Attachment 187826Attachment 187825Attachment 187824Attachment 187828
I know what you mean about the death grip on the steering wheel white knuckles and all
Also we already adjusted the steering when the trackbar was put on too.Attachment 187827Attachment 187826Attachment 187825Attachment 187824Attachment 187828
From the looks of it in the 2nd picture, it appears that the passenger side upper contol arm bushing on the axle is fairly dry-rotted. It could be that these bushings are worn out/rotted enough to cause the DW. Remove the UCA and use a long pry bar to move the bushing around to see how much deflection/movement there is in the bushing.
I will mention this to him I already had him read through the others and everything checked out as "yes that is what I did". Almost seems like you need to keep spending money just to figure out the damn problem
This is so frustrating and it makes it worse since this is my DD not his
Pain killer has it right ( yesterday11:27) to long to quote. Out of those lifts I have had to repair. And there has been a lot, I have the that the suspension was under stress. It only takes minutes to loose the upper and lower track bolts, all 8. Remove the adjustable end of the track bar before you jump up an down on the front bumper. Where ever the frontend settles adjust the track bar to it's mounts, not the axle to the track bar.
Pain killer has it right ( yesterday11:27) to long to quote. Out of those lifts I have had to repair. And there has been a lot, I have the that the suspension was under stress. It only takes minutes to loose the upper and lower track bolts, all 8. Remove the adjustable end of the track bar before you jump up an down on the front bumper. Where ever the frontend settles adjust the track bar to it's mounts, not the axle to the track bar.
Originally Posted by jrylb73
Well my wife had this issue while I was deployed and trying to explain what was wrong with it over messenger was a pain in the a$$. I told her take it to some one and have them check the frame side track bar bolt hole to see if it was elongated and every time she did they would just tell her the bolt was tight. She took it to a few other 4X4 shops and one told her it was the ball joint ($500) the other told her it was the tie rod ($500). It was nice they was trying to take advantage of her. Well luckily one of the members on here sent me a message and told me to have my wife come by and he would look at it. She k it over to his house and he checked things out. When he took off the track bar he found the frame side had been elongated. He recommended a Fab shop down the road and it ended up being a $20.00 fix. We haven't had any problems since
Here is a pic of the elongated bolt hole and the washer welded over the bolt hole.
Here is a pic of the elongated bolt hole and the washer welded over the bolt hole.
I've had this problem several times with my full size prerunner. The washer welded over the hole is the best fix. As well as a new bushing obviously.
I would take the track bar off and check both mounting holes.


