Death Wobble Cont.
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure how my comment posted twice, ill post a photo of the piece you mentioned in a second to see what you think.
Last edited by schmity; 07-03-2019 at 05:15 PM.
#12
JK Newbie
Oof, that caster is definitely low which can't be helping things any. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*, and most of us lifted guys are running somewhere in that 4-5* range (it's not an exact science). Caster is one of those things that small changes make a huge difference. Since it's that low, have to think you have no form of caster correction. The easiest/cheapest solution would be to throw some control arm brackets on it for $100. It would make a big difference in that regard. Low caster can often result in bump-steer (hit a bump and steering wheel kinda yanks in a direction). I could envision this being a combination of bump-steer with effects of tight steering still.
When you make a turn in the jeep currently, does the steering wheel want to return to straight by itself? If not, those ball joints are still tight. The description of constant correction between 11 & 1 o'clock sounds mainly like tight steering still following BJ replacement to me.
When you make a turn in the jeep currently, does the steering wheel want to return to straight by itself? If not, those ball joints are still tight. The description of constant correction between 11 & 1 o'clock sounds mainly like tight steering still following BJ replacement to me.
All of his specs are a mess. Until they are corrected, to your point, there will be no way to accurately address handling concerns. Could be bad ball joints, bad wheel bearings, etc...
#13
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah my car really loves to break a leg after tripping over a pebble what can I say lol. But even then the handling is still rough, but the control arm brackets arrive soon so im just hoping thatll be the fix although I have doubts it will be. But I have to wait and see, will keep you all updated.
#14
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So update, got the control arm brackets on the car and it drives much straighter and doesnt throw me around over bumps. Im pretty sure i need to get car aligned as I increased my caster angle and im pretty sure that moving control arms can cause ur angles to change. Other reason I believe that I need an alignment is that even on smooth roads I still believe that my car is trying to veer out of the lane (so its either theres still something wrong/or just needs a basic alignment) but the increased caster makes it much easier to control.
Also when im driving theres still a dead zone in the center of the steering where I can jiggle the steering wheel left and right from 11-1 and get no response as the jeep just goes in one direction. Gonna send a video on this tomorrow actually.
As for this I think I found the answer, my radiator had a small leak about 2-3 weeks ago and I got it changed, I went to look under it today and it looked dry fortunately.
Also when im driving theres still a dead zone in the center of the steering where I can jiggle the steering wheel left and right from 11-1 and get no response as the jeep just goes in one direction. Gonna send a video on this tomorrow actually.
As for this I think I found the answer, my radiator had a small leak about 2-3 weeks ago and I got it changed, I went to look under it today and it looked dry fortunately.
#15
JK Jedi
Well, as noted earlier, there's a lot out of spec on that last alignment sheet. The caster should now be in an acceptable range with the brackets. I don't quite get how after recently replacing the ball joints that camber could way out, but outside of installing off-set BJs, that is what it is. There really isn't any reason they should have sent you out the door with toe that is out of spec; however, none of that should really translate in to your steering wheel dead zone. You should have enough miles on those BJs to have broken in by now. I don't recall, what brand of BJs did you put in that? Something just doesn't seem right. Without digging way back, remind us, you haven't done anything to that steering box previously right? I recall a thread where someone started swapping boxes but I don't think that was you.
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, no changes done to the steering box. I guess I do need to get an alignment done which ill look to doing tomorrow, what are the ranges for camber and toe that my car should be around? This all happened because one track bar installation went wrong. But the ball joints are synergy so I doubt theyre the issue since they are a good brand. Im about to drive so Ill record this dead zone that I get when driving.
#17
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here I just posted the video online so you can see the play im talking of, throughout the video the jeep will continue in the same direction even after moving the steering wheel as you can see. Mechanic said its likely the steering box but before I go and change any more things id like to see what you guys think. Much appreciated all.
#18
JK Jedi
Well, that certainly does not look good. Can you remind us what year your jeep is? I can't recall the year the boxes changed, but the older Delphi boxes were rebuildable, and the kits were pretty cheap (~$20). The way everyone always explained determining which you have......is the box all rusty (Delphi) or is it a big black hunk of cast metal (China)?
Do keep in mind that there is a difference between the 2dr and 4dr boxes if you have to purchase a new one.
Do keep in mind that there is a difference between the 2dr and 4dr boxes if you have to purchase a new one.
#19
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Miami
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Still out and about on the road, upload video at a red light actually lmao. But my car is an 09, 2dr wrangler. Ill look and see how the box looks when im home. Edit: Box is definitely a rusty one so I assume its Delphi which is good since it can be rebuilt like you said. Now i just gotta learn how to rebuild one or see if I just swap it out altogether for a new OEM one.
Last edited by schmity; 07-10-2019 at 01:48 PM.
#20
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,465
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
These are the specs that get posted all the time:
Caster is set by your brackets. Some have multiple sets of holes so you can adjust the caster a bit for changing lift height = 2.5"/3.5"/4.5", but it is not micro-adjustable outside of those 1" steps. Others have only a single set of holes so those are not adjustable at all.
Camber can not be adjusted. (unless you happened to get adjustable balljoints? Most of us do not...)
You already centered the axle with a front trackbar? And you already centered the steering wheel after the lift? So more than likely you will be paying the shop just to adjust the Toe?
Check the website for West Texas Offroad / Redneck Ram. They are in the business of rebuilding our steering boxes and also setting them up for hydro. Even if you don't want to send your box to them, they may be able to answer some questions and get you pointed in the right direction.
Front Axle
CASTER + 4.2° ± 0.5° (+3.7° to +4.7°)
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.65°
CAMBER − 0.25° ± 0.37° (-0.62° to +0.12°)
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE ± 0.5°
TOTAL TOE-IN + 0.20° (0.10° each front wheel) ±0.03°
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.04°
Rear Axle
Rear Camber: 0° to -0.50°
Rear Total Toe In: 0° to 0.5°
Rear Thrust Angle: 0° ± 0.25°
CASTER + 4.2° ± 0.5° (+3.7° to +4.7°)
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.65°
CAMBER − 0.25° ± 0.37° (-0.62° to +0.12°)
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE ± 0.5°
TOTAL TOE-IN + 0.20° (0.10° each front wheel) ±0.03°
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.04°
Rear Axle
Rear Camber: 0° to -0.50°
Rear Total Toe In: 0° to 0.5°
Rear Thrust Angle: 0° ± 0.25°
Camber can not be adjusted. (unless you happened to get adjustable balljoints? Most of us do not...)
You already centered the axle with a front trackbar? And you already centered the steering wheel after the lift? So more than likely you will be paying the shop just to adjust the Toe?
Check the website for West Texas Offroad / Redneck Ram. They are in the business of rebuilding our steering boxes and also setting them up for hydro. Even if you don't want to send your box to them, they may be able to answer some questions and get you pointed in the right direction.