Death Wobble Cont.
#21
JK Jedi
Check the website for West Texas Offroad / Redneck Ram. They are in the business of rebuilding our steering boxes and also setting them up for hydro. Even if you don't want to send your box to them, they may be able to answer some questions and get you pointed in the right direction.
#22
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Best shots I could get of box, I dont see anything that says Delphi but the box isnt black at all. It basically all looks rusted over, you thinks its safe to say its Delphi?
You can see the adjuster knob in this one
Here you can see what I assume are the power steering lines going into it
You can see the adjuster knob in this one
Here you can see what I assume are the power steering lines going into it
#23
JK Jedi
It appears that Delphi would be stamped on the side facing the driver's front tire, so you might need to remove the wheel well liner to confirm. I hate posting a link from another site, but in an effort to help quickly, take a look at this one -
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/sale-...ering-box.html
Now that sucker is definitely rusty! That would be the stamp your looking for. Just comparing conditions between that and yours, ugh, I don't think you're gonna be so fortunate.
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/sale-...ering-box.html
Now that sucker is definitely rusty! That would be the stamp your looking for. Just comparing conditions between that and yours, ugh, I don't think you're gonna be so fortunate.
#24
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This has been such a task, all because of a track bar im really amazed. Ugh, well fortunately I already felt like my car would crap out on me in not being a Delphi and make it as hard as it can be, so I ordered a steering box just in case which arrives today. Installing it doesnt seem like the hardest thing ever. (Which I said about the track bar so im rlly 50/50 lol). Still am gonna hope for a miracle that I see Delphi on it. Also is adjusting the steering box to be a bit tighter ever recommended? especially since I will be changing it soon?
Last edited by schmity; 07-13-2019 at 05:21 AM.
#25
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So its not a delphi as predicted, I just lifted the inner fender flare and got my answer. Installing steering box tomorrow ideally, im really certain that this HAS to be the issue. Ive done small "flicks" on the steering wheel turning it slightly to the left and to the right and there is a lack of return to center (It kinda just holds its place in the direction i turned it to.). Constant correction of lanes, the dead zone. It really all just sounds like a steering box to me at this point, cause if it isnt im not too sure what else to look for or who to really point the finger at for not working properly lol. Either way thanks again for all the help i really appreciate it. Ill fill you in on how the steering box affects the driving
Last edited by schmity; 07-14-2019 at 03:12 AM.
#26
JK Jedi
I've not installed a full steering box, but I have installed a fame side TB bracket that required the 4 bolts holding the box on to be removed. I can tell you that is one heavy, awkward piece to hold in place while trying to get those bolts back in. Definitely a 2 person job I'd think. I'll be curious to hear how it goes cuz I'm ordering a RNR from WTO this week.....so installing a box is in my near future as well.
#27
JK Jedi
I ordered a Red Neck Ram from WTO today and was watching a few videos in preparation. I think you should have a fairly easy swap. Take a quick look at this video -
Basically removing intermediate shaft from the back side of the steering box, remove the two PS fluid lines, remove the TR at the pitman arm, and remove the pitman arm. 4 bolts are are that hold the box in place. Don't see it in that video, but I assume having a 3 jaw puller or similar is required to get the pitman arm off the sector shaft (actually addressed at at 8:44....looks like a puller would be easier!) Note that at 26:23, he says install the factory PS lines BEFORE you bolt the new box in!
***I realize you're not installing a RNR, but same steps for a factory box
Basically removing intermediate shaft from the back side of the steering box, remove the two PS fluid lines, remove the TR at the pitman arm, and remove the pitman arm. 4 bolts are are that hold the box in place. Don't see it in that video, but I assume having a 3 jaw puller or similar is required to get the pitman arm off the sector shaft (actually addressed at at 8:44....looks like a puller would be easier!) Note that at 26:23, he says install the factory PS lines BEFORE you bolt the new box in!
***I realize you're not installing a RNR, but same steps for a factory box
Last edited by resharp001; 07-15-2019 at 06:27 PM.
#28
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Oh yeah man ive been watching videos on gear boxes for the past week or so now and suspension for 2 months!! I appreciate the video however! Its not the worst install, the box is one heavy piece, definitely should have a person to hold it up for you while u take off/on the 4 bolts on the side. For the pitman arm id say to hit that sucker with WD40 or something until it comes time to take it off, also pitman arm puller for like $12 will come in handy. Have a free day for your install lol. Are you installing the new gearbox for any reason in particular or is it mostly preventative maintenance?
Also to update you on the driving of my jeep, the gear box has been installed and car was aligned. Yet it still veers, its kinda like having the car being (1* degree) off being perfectly straight on smooth roads (maybe im just over analyzing how the car handles and trying to compare it from before). Im not really sure what other components to look at other than the flipped DL. Either way I cant just go out and say the gearbox HASNT helped, my driving is a bit stiffer (id like to know if yours is somewhat similar, i imagine its because its a brand new box). But regardless its become less of a nuisance and I think ill just live with it for now and see if it gets any worse or if its just the "new drive" of my car. Im about to really put some miles on this car regardless (going from Miami to Houston) so if the issue im having is actually an issue this trip should make me aware of that and what could be the piece/components thats causing it, so im just throwing in the towel until I get back at least. Youve been a huge help Resharp I appreciate you being so active on helping me out with my car issues. (its my over problematic baby lol)
Also to update you on the driving of my jeep, the gear box has been installed and car was aligned. Yet it still veers, its kinda like having the car being (1* degree) off being perfectly straight on smooth roads (maybe im just over analyzing how the car handles and trying to compare it from before). Im not really sure what other components to look at other than the flipped DL. Either way I cant just go out and say the gearbox HASNT helped, my driving is a bit stiffer (id like to know if yours is somewhat similar, i imagine its because its a brand new box). But regardless its become less of a nuisance and I think ill just live with it for now and see if it gets any worse or if its just the "new drive" of my car. Im about to really put some miles on this car regardless (going from Miami to Houston) so if the issue im having is actually an issue this trip should make me aware of that and what could be the piece/components thats causing it, so im just throwing in the towel until I get back at least. Youve been a huge help Resharp I appreciate you being so active on helping me out with my car issues. (its my over problematic baby lol)
#29
JK Jedi
Regarding drag link flip - You're not really high enough with a 2.5" lift to flip. That's for 3"+, and really more like 3.5"+. You have to run 3" bumpstop up front to accommodate the flip or else the drag link will jam up against the bottom of the frame rail. It's not something that would improve some tendency to veer either....really just helps improve the steering angle in general when lifted that high and helps reduce the bumpsteer associated with steep steering angles.
A lot of jeeps tend to veer to a side right off the dealer lot. Tires could come in to play, it could be slight differences in caster from side to side, or it could even just be the local roads. They toe on your last alignment specs was still out. There really isn't any reason they can't nail that dang near perfectly IMO. I think what you should really focus on is if the steering feels solid at the moment. BJs good, box is good, TB is good.....you it a bump or pothole and it's solid.
Have you gotten an alignment since installing the control arm brackets? Curious where your caster is currently?
#30
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Yeah I do recall when driving back then my jeep would like to veer slightly to the left at points, I really just think im being a bit over critical of the drive on the car. Drove a different car today and it also doesnt go perfectly straight, no car can. The dead zone is gone as I could see the pitman arm responding to small turns while someone turned the steering wheel. Components looked tight, it handles over bumps and all. My trip is also looking to have some wheeling involved although nothing crazy or that would be rated as difficult at least. The stiffness of my car isnt overkill either its just a tight steering tbh. I would still like to hear how your install goes in the next coming days and how the jeep
handles for you after. WTO from what ive seen really puts in a great deal of effort for their gear boxes, hydraulic assist I imagine is probably better for people like you who go wheeling often or rocking some large tires (this would be my first time on an actual named trail and not trespassing on some persons land ) so for me I doubt ill be needing the upgrade anytime as I just need something stock thatll bring my car back up to where it was before at a decent price.
Also yeah you nailed it on the dot, when it comes to modding the car it really is a labor of love. I am excited to take a break from it though, I changed out the serpentine belt and added new oil to Diffs and tmmr the Transfer case. Hopefully these miles will put some wear on the tires im running now so ill have more reason to get myself up to +3" lift with 35s so that the flipped DL can be there for an actually valid reason lol.
I also got my car aligned the same day I put in the gear box, the caster seems good. I havent referenced the toe to what nthinuf posted early on the thread so ill have to look at that and see (ill edit and post it shortly). But Caster is at 4.9* for both tires I remember that much when I saw the printout at least.
handles for you after. WTO from what ive seen really puts in a great deal of effort for their gear boxes, hydraulic assist I imagine is probably better for people like you who go wheeling often or rocking some large tires (this would be my first time on an actual named trail and not trespassing on some persons land ) so for me I doubt ill be needing the upgrade anytime as I just need something stock thatll bring my car back up to where it was before at a decent price.
Also yeah you nailed it on the dot, when it comes to modding the car it really is a labor of love. I am excited to take a break from it though, I changed out the serpentine belt and added new oil to Diffs and tmmr the Transfer case. Hopefully these miles will put some wear on the tires im running now so ill have more reason to get myself up to +3" lift with 35s so that the flipped DL can be there for an actually valid reason lol.
I also got my car aligned the same day I put in the gear box, the caster seems good. I havent referenced the toe to what nthinuf posted early on the thread so ill have to look at that and see (ill edit and post it shortly). But Caster is at 4.9* for both tires I remember that much when I saw the printout at least.