Front driver coil spring rubbing
Just get the control arm drop brackets then. It will help the caster and improve the ride as well. The only down side is they reduce clearance underneath.
Adjustable discos in my opinion are better than spending money on fixed links. You can dial them in better and quick disco...what's not to love.
Adjustable discos in my opinion are better than spending money on fixed links. You can dial them in better and quick disco...what's not to love.
Also you can see in the latest pictures that the axle is over to the driver side. Notice the coil on the pass side bowing toward the driver side.
Get the drop brackets or adjustable CA's and adjustable track bar and you will be good
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I had the exact same issue before i had installed my teraflex monster adjustable track bar.. that will center the axle under the vehicle and relieve the "bowing" of the coils. since, right now, it looks like the spring perches on the body arent aligned with the perches on the axle. Also, check all four springs to make sure that they are seated properly in their perches. The rubber spacer on the top, between the spring and the body, can also become off center and cause the spring to not sit correctly and cause the spring to bow. That will make the body sit crooked as well. Furthermore, longer swaybar links will help out too, looks like those are a lil on the short side. Correct swaybar link length will help push the swaybar up and out of the way of the spring, instead of down and closer to the spring. Ive had issues with this in the past and just last week had my driver side spring come out of the lower perch where the end of the spring rests in the notch. swaybar link was contacting the spring again...
4" is a lot of lift to not realign the axles with an adjustable trackbar. The higher you lift the jeep, the more it skews the factory geometry of the trackbar, control arms, steering components. You have to compensate for all that good stuff :P
4" is a lot of lift to not realign the axles with an adjustable trackbar. The higher you lift the jeep, the more it skews the factory geometry of the trackbar, control arms, steering components. You have to compensate for all that good stuff :P
Also, cant quit tell from the smaller pics on my phone, but, if the installer used the factory rear swaybar links for the front swaybar, they are DEFINITELY TOO SHORT for 4" of lift. I imagine that the kit would have come with longer links for both the front and the rear. Most 2.5" kits will utilize the factory rear swaybar links in replacement of the front links and work fine. I am running a tad over 3" when my lift was new and ran the factory rears for awhile but still wasnt happy with the angle. I have the teraflex 3"-5" quick disco links now and are perfect length with my lift. I'll try and get a measurement for ya in a bit if youd like??
I had the exact same issue before i had installed my teraflex monster adjustable track bar.. that will center the axle under the vehicle and relieve the "bowing" of the coils. since, right now, it looks like the spring perches on the body arent aligned with the perches on the axle. Also, check all four springs to make sure that they are seated properly in their perches. The rubber spacer on the top, between the spring and the body, can also become off center and cause the spring to not sit correctly and cause the spring to bow. That will make the body sit crooked as well. Furthermore, longer swaybar links will help out too, looks like those are a lil on the short side. Correct swaybar link length will help push the swaybar up and out of the way of the spring, instead of down and closer to the spring. Ive had issues with this in the past and just last week had my driver side spring come out of the lower perch where the end of the spring rests in the notch. swaybar link was contacting the spring again... 4" is a lot of lift to not realign the axles with an adjustable trackbar. The higher you lift the jeep, the more it skews the factory geometry of the trackbar, control arms, steering components. You have to compensate for all that good stuff :P
So to recap, an adjustable track bar and longer disconnects and I should be good to go? How do I know what length to adjust the track bar to? Is it something I can do myself or have a shop do? The last thing I want is to make it worse. All springs are seated correctly but I can tell the axle is off center now that you say this. It's way off.
And please, measurements would be fantastic or picture of where the sway bar should be sitting with proper length links.
I'm actually wondering if a set of the sway bar shim/plate/blocks would readjust your sway bar to a more desirable position..

Note the silver block on the sway bar mounting point.. These are Synergy Fab's version.. and actually moved the sway bar slightly forward.

Note the silver block on the sway bar mounting point.. These are Synergy Fab's version.. and actually moved the sway bar slightly forward.
Last edited by AngryRedBird; Sep 19, 2014 at 12:18 PM.
I will get a pic and stuff in a few. There are some good write ups and i believe Project Jk has a great one on installation of track bars. It is very simple and a great learning experience. Give me a few
Measure how far it is off. You can do this by putting a level against the wheel and measuring the distance from the level to the flare or fender on each side with the Jeep at ride height. Let's just for arguments sake say 1". To correct a 1" offset, you would need to move the axle .5" in the direction that is off. So remove the track bar you have and measure it center of mounting hole to center of mounting hole. Now adjust the new track bar so it is .5" shorter or longer, depending on which way you need to move the axle. Because the track bar is angled, this will get you very close. Install the new track bar and check again with the jeep at ride height (sitting on it's wheels) and adjust if necessary. If adjustment is needed, you will only have to disconnect one side to make the adjustment unless you get a track bar that can be adjusted while installed.
Edit: I used a ratchet strap to align the axle with the bolt holes during my install.
Edit: I used a ratchet strap to align the axle with the bolt holes during my install.
Last edited by 14Sport; Sep 19, 2014 at 12:47 PM.
I never liked using a straight edge across the tire to measure axle center. In the front .. Grab the tape on the top of the spring perch to a common point ie mold line/tread block, on each tire. Divide by 2 as said and that will get the axle center.
If you don't have a raised TB bracket and flipped drag link .. I highly recommend it at 4" of lift. You may be able to keep the stock track bar with a raised bracket.
2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
If you don't have a raised TB bracket and flipped drag link .. I highly recommend it at 4" of lift. You may be able to keep the stock track bar with a raised bracket.
2007 Rubicon /2 door/6 speed
Edit: Actually when I did mine I was starting with a factory centered axle. I used a laser to mark the axle before I installed the lift and then adjusted it back to that point.
Last edited by 14Sport; Sep 19, 2014 at 02:28 PM.



